Go-Kart to Push Trailer

Dave31 · Apr 21, 2015

Been thinking about using the rear end of the kart and turning it into a push trailer.

This is the motor I've been using on my Junk Yard Dog but its been stripped for parts and been sitting for years.

Was thinking a push trailer for my Felt Fat Tire Ale bike. I've been enjoying this bike for three years just as it is but maybe its time for a change?

I am a little discouraged because I have spent hours looking for the drive sprocket for this motor. I know I put it to the side somewhere, but where?

All I need to do is mount a tank and the sprocket and it will be up and running. Then it's just a matter of turning it into a little trailer and making an attachment for the bike.

Would be nice to set it up so that I could mount it from one bike to another. Now, wheres that dang sprocket? Hope I come across it soon. I don't want to do any cutting or welding until I know I have everything to make it work.

Ludwig II · Apr 21, 2015

It's a rigid axle, will it try to drive straight on in corners?

2door · Apr 21, 2015

Dave,
Is that the bike you won? You didn't motorize it. That had to take willpower.

Keep us informed on the push/kart project. And...........find that sprocket! Maybe it's "behind the milk". That's usually where things are when I can't find them in the fridge.

Tom

Dave31 · Apr 22, 2015

Ludwig II- It's a rigid axle, will it try to drive straight on in corners?

Yes it is a rigid axle but with only one wheel for drive I am hoping it will do just fine.

2door- Is that the bike you won? You didn't motorize it. That had to take willpower.

Yes Tom it is the bike I won. When I first had it I really wanted to motorize it but after cruising it around just as a pedal bike I really started to enjoy it.

Never did find the sprocket for it. But I did have a 10t sprocket that I could use.

So I dismantled a rear cassette off an old bike drilled some holes and mounted it in place of the original sprocket on the rear wheel. Now I can use a #41 chain or a BMX chain which is what I plan to use now.

I've got some tubes to patch the tires wont hold air. They probably dry rotted after all this time so I might have to replace the tubes.

Hard to believe this little 33cc Zooma motor is 16 years old.

Dave31 · Apr 22, 2015

Think I will go with the bigger metal 1 gallon fuel tank. The plastic tank is not in great shape last thing I want is a fuel leak on the road. I'll have to make a mount for that tank.

Still have not figured out how I will make hitch and stuff to attach it to the bike. Need to dig around a little more in my scrap pile and see what I can find. Trying to do this without purchasing anything.

Well this is where I am at; and all the time I have right now for it.

MEASURE TWICE · Apr 22, 2015

With enough room instead of side car, call it a pusher with extra luggage carrying capability or back car for small person.

No, looks like something coming together, congrats!

MT

Intrepid Wheelwoman · Apr 23, 2015

That's an interesting idea you have there Dave. I hope you'll find the time to keep working on it.

Trey · Apr 23, 2015

Dave, looks good!
Nice make your own sprocket there. That's my favorite kinda bike. The larger tank seems right on, as does some new tubes

There was a discussion here about a (non powered) trailer connection done with an air tool coupler, and the member had good results over an extended period of time. I wonder if that could work for your situation? If you were able to work out a coupler mount that you could detatch and put on different bikes?

Good luck and keep us updated.

Dave31 · Apr 25, 2015

Trey said:
There was a discussion here about a (non powered) trailer connection done with an air tool coupler, and the member had good results over an extended period of time. I wonder if that could work for your situation? If you were able to work out a coupler mount that you could detatch and put on different bikes?

Good idea! I was planning on using a heim joint or something but an air coupler would make it easy to mount the trailer to other bikes. I should have a few couplers laying around that I could use. I am going to try that out I have not really put too much thought yet on how i will do it at the bike. Thanks!

I first made the trailer tongue with some 1/2" conduit and I used two pieces and tacked welded them together. The plan was to attach it to the bike on the chain stay. But just pedaling around the yard with the trailer empty I just did not like the way it felt. Plus I can see how i can scratch my chain stays real bad on the Fat Tire and i want to avoid that.

So I found these rails in my scrap pile and they have way thicker walls then conduit and feels more solid. Of course I cannot bend these rails like conduit so I just decided to use the seat tube to attach the trailer to the bike. If I scratch the seat tube it is very easy to re-paint or replaced.

I like these rails over conduit, its a lot more solid and stout.

Dave31 · Apr 25, 2015

Don't have a throttle cable long enough or the tank mounted but I went for a quick test ride down the street.

I just used a string tied to a short throttle cable and pulled it with my hand to work the throttle.

I asked my neighbor to video tape me but he did not video tape me on the way back?. Oh well at least you can see me take off.

Just wanted to make sure its going to work before I go further. Going to need to get a primer bulb for the carb it broke on me so i have to blow into the fuel tank to get fuel to the carb.

Here is a 20 second video of me taking off for the first time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7QEMglG0pg&feature=youtu.be

I think its going to work great just got to work out the little bugs.

cannonball2 · Apr 25, 2015

That's pretty cool! Did you use the air fitting attach method at the seat post?
When I was a kid I had a mini bike that used a string for a throttle pull with a rubber band for a return spring. Lucky to be here to talk about it!
When changing bikes how is the throttle handled? Just pull the entire hand grip assembly?
You could make an intermediate cable interface just behind the seat post so its very close to plug and play.

Dave31 · Apr 28, 2015

cannonball2 said:
That's pretty cool! Did you use the air fitting attach method at the seat post?

Thanks cannonball. Not yet but that is what I plan to do. Need to make a mount for the seat tube. For the test ride I just had it attached to the seat bracket.

For the throttle I was thinking of just swapping the entire throttle assembly but after more thought, I can see how that will get old real fast.

Have not done much since the test ride.

Trey · Apr 29, 2015

I thought it might be cool to just have a connector on each bike, but it's gotta be better to have a removable attachment.
Can't think of a good way to switch out the cable. Maybe you'll get stuck removing the whole assembly...
Looking forward to see what you come up with Dave.

cannonball2 · Apr 29, 2015

Would be fairly simple to make a lever affair mounted to the mounting tube at the seat post area. Engine throttle cable on one side and the bikes cable attaches on the other with a cable barrel nut or similar. An anchor point with a slotted adjuster just ahead of the lever would allow the bikes cable to drop in and also offer some adjustment. Throw in a return spring for the lever and its happening. Also this eliminates a long throttle cable and its associated drag using two shorter ones with the return spring at the mid point.

2door · May 2, 2015

Two cables makes perfect sense. One from the twist grip back to a bell crank. The other from the engine up to the bell crank. The crank could be mounted near where the trailer is hitched. Then you'd use a quick coupling on the engine cable to connect to the bell crank and that would make it easy to disconnect the trailer when you wanted to switch to another bike.

A hobby shop that deals in R/C planes, particularly the big 1/4 scale size, should be able to provide cable couplings that would just take a second to engage and disengage. They're used on control surfaces and throttles.

Of course both bikes would have to be equipped with the bell crank.

Tom

Dave31 · May 14, 2015

Great idea guys, keep them coming. Have not had time to work on it been busy with work and taking care of my Dad.

I'll update as soon as I get back on it

Dave31 · May 17, 2015

Figured out that with the tires flat it pulls much better. The tubes only hold air for a few minutes but with air in them even with weight on the trailer it bounces a lot.

Running the tires flat it feels much better and I cannot see that it will cause any problems later.

I am having a problem getting the proper chain tension. The motor does adjust up and down. But if I add a link its too long, if I remove a link its too short. Tried a half link but that is no different then adding a full link.

I do not want to add a tensioner so I don't know what else to do but order the original size sprocket for it and use the chain it came with. That way I can get the proper chain slack.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkeEcWdX9rg

cannonball2 · May 17, 2015

Since the tires have tubes fill them with a bit of water like a tractor. The added weight should help bouncing/traction. Fix leaks first of course and get all the air out so it will hold more water.

Dave31 · May 18, 2015

cannonball2 said:
Since the tires have tubes fill them with a bit of water like a tractor. The added weight should help bouncing/traction. Fix leaks first of course and get all the air out so it will hold more water.

Yeah cannonball that is one route I could take. Think I'll wait until I get it all ready for the road before I decide to do something like that. That's something I can always do later and I have yet to try it on a nice smooth paved road if I can found one.

What would be nice is they fixed are horrible roads here.

Dave31 · May 18, 2015

Dave31 said:
I am having a problem getting the proper chain tension. The motor does adjust up and down. But if I add a link its too long, if I remove a link its too short. Tried a half link but that is no different then adding a full link.

I do not want to add a tensioner so I don't know what else to do but order the original size sprocket for it and use the chain it came with. That way I can get the proper chain slack.

Instead of spending money on a sprocket I just used my drill press like a mill so the motor has more adjustment. Now I can get the proper chain tension.

I just hope the sprockets don't wear to bad to soon or I'll have to do it some more.

Now the chain and sprockets are all ready I can move on...

I still need to get a primer bulb. I would like to eliminate it because I can easily mount the fuel tank above the carb. And I hate primer bulbs they don't last long in this dry AZ heat.

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