Using a SkyHawk 66cc Angle Fire at over 8000 Feet
- Thread starter oldtimer54
- Start date
]i had the same problem but wrap aluminum foil on the speedo wire and coil wire then wrapped in electrical tape worked great no more interference
Tried it no go. Anyone know this carb? bicycle Motorized BIKE ENGINE - Performance Carburetor - eBay (item 170488032581 end time Jun-17-10 11:48:22 PDT) Could this help with power?
I seem to have a head leak? (brand new bikeberry motor) I keep seeing oil on the head (Ive been cleaning it off to see where its coming from) and on one head bolt. I have a 1/2" torque wench but I need a 3/8" torque wench so I dont know how to fix this? I also hear piston clatter now? (Iam still on tank 2 of gas) My plug is black. I just got a stock NT carb, it helped out the idle but not the power band. Is piston clatter normal with these motors? Could I use a socket adapter with the torque wench? Will that carb help get up 8000foot+ mountan roads?
Thanks Guys
A socket adapter could be used, but I do have a concern. A typical torque wrench with a 1/2" drive has a range from 25 ftlb to 250 ftlb.
A 3/8" drive torque wrench has a range from 5 ftlb to 100 ftlb.
These torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle third of their range.
As I have learned on this site and others concerning HT engines, your head bolts should not be torqued above 15ftlbs or you risk pulling the threads out of the crank case. Some will fail below that! Typically they only need 10 ftlb to seal properly.
I fear that you may inadvertently pull out the threads by using such a large torque wrench.
A 3/8" drive torque wrench has a range from 5 ftlb to 100 ftlb.
These torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle third of their range.
As I have learned on this site and others concerning HT engines, your head bolts should not be torqued above 15ftlbs or you risk pulling the threads out of the crank case. Some will fail below that! Typically they only need 10 ftlb to seal properly.
I fear that you may inadvertently pull out the threads by using such a large torque wrench.
The carb you referred to is a CNS carb.You can search it on forum for all the pro's and con's.It has both air/fuel screw and idle screw adjustments.A lot of differant opinions on this carb.I have one on one of my 48cc's with no problems.
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What about the piston clatter? Could that be from a leak at the head? Is it damaging my motor? Will that carb give me more bottom end torque? If I bought one could you advise me on setting it up?
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My manual showed that one could use these motorss for many uses like a log splitter or boat, but a airplane; not theres a idea, could be a good summer project, who wants to go for a airplane ride, i'll need a test pilot. Im just joking, im still getting rid of my gas kit and going electric.
Ok I found one head bolt had about 8lb torque the others about 5lb. Ive torqued them all to 15lb but the power is no better and the piston clatter is as bad as ever? Should I try to RMA this motor? Has anyone had to do this with bikeberry? I could use some help guys.
A 1/4" ratchet and 1 finger should torque it sufficiently. Also i think this engine WAS developed from a giant scale model airplane engine.
im at 7200 ft here in ridgway routinely go to 95 or 10k soldered my jets and bought a drill set at hobby lobby and use the smallest bit in there and it is tiny. made all the diff. also run the clip in the middle. it worked for me, good plugs and wiresw also help. and yes i have had probs with rfi i solder all my connections good luck amigo,frank
Thanks frank. I bought that same set but when I used the smallest bit my motor would race and had no throttle. I guess that is what would happen with a leaky head gasket or a warped head. Ill have to try it again. I hope I get to have the FUN part soon!
I hope that the clatter you hear is not the wrist pin bearing or bushing going south on you.
I do not want to cause you to tear into your engine, but if the noise is it is in fact coming from the cylinder area, short of the piston actually hitting the cylinder head or head gasket that is the only other idea I can come up with right now.
I know that these engines make all kinds of strange sounds compared to a motorcycle or weed wacker engine even when all is good with them.
I do not want to cause you to tear into your engine, but if the noise is it is in fact coming from the cylinder area, short of the piston actually hitting the cylinder head or head gasket that is the only other idea I can come up with right now.
I know that these engines make all kinds of strange sounds compared to a motorcycle or weed wacker engine even when all is good with them.
Yeah, but piston clatter on a new engine?
I know that they cost cheap and are built cheap, but I'd hope that they would have piston to cylinder clearance reasonably tight.....
My '77 Yamaha YZ400 sounds like a diesel due to a worn piston and bore but it still pulls 3rd gear wheelies and has not left me stranded........yet......
I know that they cost cheap and are built cheap, but I'd hope that they would have piston to cylinder clearance reasonably tight.....
My '77 Yamaha YZ400 sounds like a diesel due to a worn piston and bore but it still pulls 3rd gear wheelies and has not left me stranded........yet......
This motor came to me with three headbolts at about 5 pounds and one at eight pounds of torque. That might have something to do with it.
Yeah, an air leak at the head or base gasket would have lead to a lean mixture. I can see this potentially overheating the piston causing it to expand more the the design calls for, leading to accelerated wear. I would also think that you would have experienced a heck of alot of heat radiating from the cylinder and a very white or aluminum grey colored spark plug if this was happening.
