Old Royce Union 18" from my shed...

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highlander9

highlander9

New Member
Oct 15, 2010
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Illinois


I'm thinking of keeping all the stock parts, except for maybe swapping out the brakes, multi-gears and derailer from it for some drum brakes , single gear , and engine kit . What do you guys think???

Some questions I have:
Q1: Should I get a Strumy-Archer dyno hub? Are they really worth it? or would something like a 6v generator be best for powering the lights?
Q2: What's the best gear ratio or should i just say heck with it and get a g4 transmission?
Q3: Would I have any use for a transmission when laws in illinois require you to travel under 20mph
Q4: Would a 2.5hp huasheng 142 49cc engine let me travel under 20mph?
 
wheelbender6

wheelbender6

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Sep 4, 2008
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TX
Not sure why you haven't got any replies. Maybe too many questions.
Dyno hubs and friction generators generally spin too fast (beyond design limit) on a motorized bike and burn out.
Read a lot in the 4 cycle subforum to see what gear ratio most people like.
A shift kit may not be needed for doing 20mph in the flats, but will definitey help maintain speed going up hills or help you reach 20mph faster if you are a big guy.
SHift kit will also help you maintain speed against a strong headwind.
The 2.5 hp thumper motor will cruise smoothly at 15-20mph unless the gear ratio is way off.
I ride a 2 stroke, but I'm planning a thumper build.
 
highlander9

highlander9

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Oct 15, 2010
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Illinois
Interesting developments, wheelbender6. Interesting, because I was just about to order a dyno hub but based on what you found about them burning out but I guess i'll have to hold my horses. NOW, is this something you came across in your own experience or is this hearsay or what???

I have heard that if you used a wired a voltage regulator to it that it would do just fine... It's only an AC generator doing it's thing... I don't know how it could simply burn out, unless you were talking about the light that it powers...
 
MotorBicycleRacing

MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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SoCal Baby!!!
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highlander9 said:
Interesting developments, wheelbender6. Interesting, because I was just about to order a dyno hub but based on what you found about them burning out but I guess i'll have to hold my horses. NOW, is this something you came across in your own experience or is this hearsay or what???

I have heard that if you used a wired a voltage regulator to it that it would do just fine... It's only an AC generator doing it's thing... I don't know how it could simply burn out, unless you were talking about the light that it powers...
Click to expand...
I have never heard of a Sturmey-Archer dyno hub burning out.....it
is a quality product that works fine on motorized bikes.
 
BarelyAWake

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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I had similar concerns regarding the dynohubs... but I went ahead and tried a Sturmey Archer X-FDD & while it didn't put out quite as much power as I thought it would (fixed by using an LED taillight, headlight is still an incandescent) - it's held up really well w/o any problems at all, roughly 4500 miles later it's still working fine - even it's bearings (sealed) like the day they were new (^) Not all websites mention this, but they're available in 2.4W or 3.0W BTW- defo go for the 3W one.

Yer prolly after one w/o the drum brake, but if yer lookin' to get one with a drum, check out the newer XL-FDD w/90mm drum brake for more stopping power :)
 
highlander9

highlander9

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Oct 15, 2010
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Illinois
Thanks for the inputs, All! I've been trying to figure out a way to rectify the AC of the dynohub to power in parallel LED head & tail lights and possibly a USB charge port (as many as 2). Has anybody had any luck with designing a voltage regulating circuit for this kind of activity? I understand there will be some bridge rectifiers and voltage doubling going on... I've been trying to understand from a second-hand point of view, with not a lot of luck. Any further input would be appreciated...
 
Kevin J

Kevin J

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Jan 14, 2011
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I have had bad luck with every type of light except the good ol battery operated ones.get some rechargable batts and your good to go.
 
M

msrfan

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Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
"Dyno hubs and friction generators generally spin too fast (beyond design limit) on a motorized bike and burn out."

I don't know about the friction drives, but I know the Dynohub is a quality unit. I have a collection of early units from the 60's-70's and we built one into the center double pulley of one of our Briggs bikes. It turns 3000 rpms or more and has been going strong for over 4 years. Of course at that rpm it puts out 87 volts and has to be rectified-regulated down to 6v DC in order to keep a battery pack charged. It works great and is bullet proof.

 
M

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
highlander9 said:
Thanks for the inputs, All! I've been trying to figure out a way to rectify the AC of the dynohub to power in parallel LED head & tail lights and possibly a USB charge port (as many as 2). Has anybody had any luck with designing a voltage regulating circuit for this kind of activity? I understand there will be some bridge rectifiers and voltage doubling going on... I've been trying to understand from a second-hand point of view, with not a lot of luck. Any further input would be appreciated...
Click to expand...


Sheldon Brown has some good info on dynohub regulating/rectifying. Here's a link.
Dynohubs
 
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