Hi,
I am looking for a tillotson ml-5b carburetor for my model H engine.
Can any one help?
Thank you,
Tom
I am looking for a tillotson ml-5b carburetor for my model H engine.
Can any one help?
Thank you,
Tom
WTB: Tillotson ML5B carburetor
- Thread starter pedal4416
- Start date
Here's all I could find, but they might not be what you want:
Cushman Whizzer Scooter Tillotson ML7A Carburetor:eBay Motors (item 290360587580 end time Oct-26-09 15:28:11 PDT)
Cushman Whizzer Scooter Tillotson Carburetor Mod MT31B:eBay Motors (item 290360580820 end time Oct-26-09 14:55:49 PDT)
Cushman Whizzer Scooter Tillotson ML7A Carburetor:eBay Motors (item 290360587580 end time Oct-26-09 15:28:11 PDT)
Cushman Whizzer Scooter Tillotson Carburetor Mod MT31B:eBay Motors (item 290360580820 end time Oct-26-09 14:55:49 PDT)
Here's a Carter N. That's what I have on my 49.
Whizzer Cushman Scooter Carter Model N Carburetor Carb:eBay Motors (item 290360578287 end time Oct-26-09 14:44:32 PDT)
Whizzer Cushman Scooter Carter Model N Carburetor Carb:eBay Motors (item 290360578287 end time Oct-26-09 14:44:32 PDT)
None of the carburetors will fit except the ML5B because of the bolt pattern on the "H" motor. It is possible to use a Carter "N" model by making the holes enlongated. The same is true for the Tilltoson MT12 [late Whizzer carburetor].
If using a Carter be sure it is fro the Whizzer motor and not a lawn mower because they are often very different. The way to tell if it is a Whizzer Carter version just look at where the fuel line enters the carburetor. If it enters via the top and attaches to a large brass fitting it is the right one. If the fuel line is attached on the side and attaches to the carburetor housing it is the WRONG version. Ebay listing is an example of the wrong carburetor
Whizzer Cushman Scooter Carter Model N Carburetor Carb:eBay Motors (item 290360578287 end time Oct-26-09 14:44:32 PDT)
The Tillotson ML5B is the most common and often easier to find than the other versions.
Be careful if using some of the Tillotson ML carburetors because they fit Cushman scooters and are too large for the "H" motor.
Have fun,
If using a Carter be sure it is fro the Whizzer motor and not a lawn mower because they are often very different. The way to tell if it is a Whizzer Carter version just look at where the fuel line enters the carburetor. If it enters via the top and attaches to a large brass fitting it is the right one. If the fuel line is attached on the side and attaches to the carburetor housing it is the WRONG version. Ebay listing is an example of the wrong carburetor
Whizzer Cushman Scooter Carter Model N Carburetor Carb:eBay Motors (item 290360578287 end time Oct-26-09 14:44:32 PDT)
The Tillotson ML5B is the most common and often easier to find than the other versions.
Be careful if using some of the Tillotson ML carburetors because they fit Cushman scooters and are too large for the "H" motor.
Have fun,
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Thank you for the information Quenton, im having a hard time finding a ml5b for under $150. i might just have to spend the money....
I'd spend the money. You get what you pay for. I have a 49 Whizzer (that I got from Quenton) with a Carter N. Original Whizzer carbs are hard to find. Quenton knows what he's talking about. Didn't your H come with a carb?
Jay
Jay
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Hi King123,
The fastest way to destroy the value of a vintage Whizzer is to use the wrong parts on it. Once you start using the wrong parts the street price could easily drop below 50% of the value.
All of my vintage Whizzer have the correct parts and is the reason I have won 1st place in all the shows I entered on the east coast since 2004. Judges remove points for every incorrect part they locate.
Have fun
The fastest way to destroy the value of a vintage Whizzer is to use the wrong parts on it. Once you start using the wrong parts the street price could easily drop below 50% of the value.
All of my vintage Whizzer have the correct parts and is the reason I have won 1st place in all the shows I entered on the east coast since 2004. Judges remove points for every incorrect part they locate.
Have fun
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Got mine whizzer 48 and water was in the bowl of Carter N. I try everything to save it. Just had to buy one, I think it was $110 on ebay. Got it on and it start right up after year of not running.
Hi Chopperjoe,
The Tillotson ML5B has 3 adjustments. The adjustable main jet is the "wing nut" needle adjustment at the bottom of the carburetor. Another adjustment is located on the side of the carburetor and has a spring on the adjustment shaft, this is the low speed adjustment. And the final adjustment is the idle set screw where the cable attaches to the carburetor.
Start by turning the main jet in until it bottoms out, [DO NOT over tighten] then open approx 3/4 to 1 turn. Start motor and let warm up, then adjust while riding at wide open throttle to maximum speed [RPM]. The low speed jet [air/fuel] is adjusted for maximum idle speed, then back out a very small amount [1/32 of a turn]. Then set the mechanical idle screw for approx 900 to 1000 RPMs at idle [don't set too low as it is an oil splash system].
Hope this helps.
Have fun,
The Tillotson ML5B has 3 adjustments. The adjustable main jet is the "wing nut" needle adjustment at the bottom of the carburetor. Another adjustment is located on the side of the carburetor and has a spring on the adjustment shaft, this is the low speed adjustment. And the final adjustment is the idle set screw where the cable attaches to the carburetor.
Start by turning the main jet in until it bottoms out, [DO NOT over tighten] then open approx 3/4 to 1 turn. Start motor and let warm up, then adjust while riding at wide open throttle to maximum speed [RPM]. The low speed jet [air/fuel] is adjusted for maximum idle speed, then back out a very small amount [1/32 of a turn]. Then set the mechanical idle screw for approx 900 to 1000 RPMs at idle [don't set too low as it is an oil splash system].
Hope this helps.
Have fun,
Thanks for the great info, will help me very much. would love to find an owners manual.This is an H model bike 1947.
Thanks for the info, I ran across one on the net, but cant recall the site. will check out ebay.
Do you know what the backout would be on the slow idle jet? im thinking 2 turns out from seated. Also this tank has rust on the inside, any ideas on cleaning it up, mostly just surface rust. Already took the bowl off, looks good inside, but will get an in line fuel filter before i try to fire it up. Its been sitting for approx. 20 years has great compression and one heck of a spark, i found out the old school way. Also left grip connected to cable running down to motor just below the back of head. I believe it may be compression release but does not seem to change a thing when peddling. Does not have the trigger style throttle or compression release. Just picked this up yesterday and just starting to read about Whizzers. Thanks for any input. Joe in Illinois.
Here are manuals on Ebay.
Jay
whizzer manual items - Get great deals on eBay Motors, Collectibles items on eBay.com!
Jay
whizzer manual items - Get great deals on eBay Motors, Collectibles items on eBay.com!
ANYTHING you want to know about a Whizzer, Just ask!
"a. Rotate high-speed adjustment screw clockwise until it seats [lightly], then rotate it approximately 3/4 turn counter-clockwise.
b. Rotate idle-adjustment screw clockwise until it seats [lightly], then rotate it approximately 3/4 turn counter-clockwise."
"a. Adjust high-speed adjustment screw for leanest possible mixture that will allow sudden acceleration without hesitation.
[1] Accelerate motor and note response, If motor misses or backfires, high speed adjustment screw is too far closed and should be opened slightly [counter-clockwise rotation]. If upon acceleration the motor rolls and emits smoke, screw should be turned clockwise until condition is remedied. Find best screw position for instant response to acceleration and for smooth running at accelerated speeds.
[2] Best test to obtain final hi-speed adjustment is to operate motor under load and make adjustments in small progressive steps until best performance is obtained.
b. Adjust idle-adjustment screw to smoothest idling position.
c. Position the idle-speed-regulating screw to produce an engine speed of approximately 1000 R.P.M. [make a chalk mark on rear wheel tire: when wheel makes 28 revolutions in 15 seconds, engine speed will be 1000 R.P.M.].
d. If last adjustment affects smoothness of idling, readjust idle-adjustment screw…. and continue to adjust, first, the idle-adjustment screw and, second, the idle-speed-regulating screw until smoothest possible idling at 1000 R.P.M. is obtained.”
There ya have it! Detailed instructions.
Have fun,
"a. Rotate high-speed adjustment screw clockwise until it seats [lightly], then rotate it approximately 3/4 turn counter-clockwise.
b. Rotate idle-adjustment screw clockwise until it seats [lightly], then rotate it approximately 3/4 turn counter-clockwise."
"a. Adjust high-speed adjustment screw for leanest possible mixture that will allow sudden acceleration without hesitation.
[1] Accelerate motor and note response, If motor misses or backfires, high speed adjustment screw is too far closed and should be opened slightly [counter-clockwise rotation]. If upon acceleration the motor rolls and emits smoke, screw should be turned clockwise until condition is remedied. Find best screw position for instant response to acceleration and for smooth running at accelerated speeds.
[2] Best test to obtain final hi-speed adjustment is to operate motor under load and make adjustments in small progressive steps until best performance is obtained.
b. Adjust idle-adjustment screw to smoothest idling position.
c. Position the idle-speed-regulating screw to produce an engine speed of approximately 1000 R.P.M. [make a chalk mark on rear wheel tire: when wheel makes 28 revolutions in 15 seconds, engine speed will be 1000 R.P.M.].
d. If last adjustment affects smoothness of idling, readjust idle-adjustment screw…. and continue to adjust, first, the idle-adjustment screw and, second, the idle-speed-regulating screw until smoothest possible idling at 1000 R.P.M. is obtained.”
There ya have it! Detailed instructions.
Have fun,
Thanks so much, almost got it running today but ran out of energy, wanted to start with throttle wide open, but not sure were the left throttle position should be, which I believe is the compresion relief but not sure, dont feel any different tension when peddling. I believe I need to take the carb apart and clean it up and blow it out. I will reset all screws like you suggested Thanks again.
The "H" motor has thumb controls on the right side of the handlebar.
The "J" had the Whizzer twist grips, and the later motors used a compression lever on the left cotrol.
If you have the "J" twist grips then the left control opens and closes the compression lever. When the compression lever is towards the top, the exhaust valve is held open to allow the motor to be turned easily, once the motor is turning quickly then close the lever with the left twist control to start the motor.
The throttle is normally opened a small amount when starting, and be careful because the carburetor can flood the motor very easily. Most often the choke is needed when starting a "cold" motor, however if the motor starts and sputters the choke should be turned off when trying to re-start to avoid flooding the motor.
I suggest you replace the points with the electronic module becuase it will start much easier and run smoother at low RPMs. The reason has to do with the strength of the magnets in the flywheel. If the magnets are weak then the module helps increase the amount of fire.
If you clean the carburetor, use caution when using an air supply to "blow out" the carburetor. NEVER use air unless the float bowl is removed to avoid crushing the metal float [very hard to find replacement].
Have fun,
The "J" had the Whizzer twist grips, and the later motors used a compression lever on the left cotrol.
If you have the "J" twist grips then the left control opens and closes the compression lever. When the compression lever is towards the top, the exhaust valve is held open to allow the motor to be turned easily, once the motor is turning quickly then close the lever with the left twist control to start the motor.
The throttle is normally opened a small amount when starting, and be careful because the carburetor can flood the motor very easily. Most often the choke is needed when starting a "cold" motor, however if the motor starts and sputters the choke should be turned off when trying to re-start to avoid flooding the motor.
I suggest you replace the points with the electronic module becuase it will start much easier and run smoother at low RPMs. The reason has to do with the strength of the magnets in the flywheel. If the magnets are weak then the module helps increase the amount of fire.
If you clean the carburetor, use caution when using an air supply to "blow out" the carburetor. NEVER use air unless the float bowl is removed to avoid crushing the metal float [very hard to find replacement].
Have fun,
Just finished cleaning carb, only used spray cleaner, and blew through needle holes with my mouth, all seems to be clear, needles were clean no corrosion, were do I find an electronic module? Your help is much appreciated. Thanks for the compression release info, its an H motor but must have the J grips. Im glad you mentioned slight throttle when trying to start up.
