I have been having trouble with my mounts of my bicycle the whole time I have had it. I could not get the studs tight enough because when they were tight the thread would pop out of the hole and then not screw back in because I think the threads might ruined. But I have the engine mounted now with them stuck in the hole and then I put a nut on the end and locktited the nut. It has been good for about 3 weeks and now it is getting loose again. What can I do for a permanent solution.
Problems with Engine mounts
- Thread starter Lachiepower0402
- Start date
g'day Lachiepower0402,
what i would consider is pull your engine off take all four stud's out i am guessing they are m6 stud's ,if so if you can drill and tap in a m8 thread and use high tenso stud's ,take care doing this but will fix your problem
what i would consider is pull your engine off take all four stud's out i am guessing they are m6 stud's ,if so if you can drill and tap in a m8 thread and use high tenso stud's ,take care doing this but will fix your problem
The original studs I think were M6 and now I am using a threaded rod which has the same thread as the stud and width.
Which size helicoil would I use if I got one.
Which size helicoil would I use if I got one.
I'd stick to the M6,
Not sure that M8 is necessary? and may be harder to get around frame, through rear mounting block and saddles.
Doubt that your threaded rod is High tensile, which is what you want it to be.
M6 helicoil kit is very handy to have, and you will no doubt use it again.
Not sure that M8 is necessary? and may be harder to get around frame, through rear mounting block and saddles.
Doubt that your threaded rod is High tensile, which is what you want it to be.
M6 helicoil kit is very handy to have, and you will no doubt use it again.
Could you please provide my with a link to an example of M6 helicoil kit that would be suitable.
Is High Tensile metal normally black in colour because my rod is silver.
Is High Tensile metal normally black in colour because my rod is silver.
High Tensile is usually black, but does not necessarily have to be.
A file is a good way to test the material to see if it is high tensile, comparing it's resistance to being filed against a bolt that you know is high tensile.
I bought my Helicoil kits 20 years ago, but easy to find at an auto parts store or on E bay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Thread-r..._Accessories&hash=item338c341ff8#ht_447wt_926
But you can get them at 1/2 that price from China, don't know the quality of the Chinese ones, but if only being used on aluminum, should be fine.
A file is a good way to test the material to see if it is high tensile, comparing it's resistance to being filed against a bolt that you know is high tensile.
I bought my Helicoil kits 20 years ago, but easy to find at an auto parts store or on E bay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Thread-r..._Accessories&hash=item338c341ff8#ht_447wt_926
But you can get them at 1/2 that price from China, don't know the quality of the Chinese ones, but if only being used on aluminum, should be fine.
I am going to purchase the thread repair kit on ebay, could anyone please give me a written description on how to on how to do it not a video please. Also how much time would I need to leave to complete the job.
Also after I have inserted the helicoil can I tighten the nut on the threaded rod as tight as possible because last time I did this the thread stripped as it is now.
Thank you in advance
Also after I have inserted the helicoil can I tighten the nut on the threaded rod as tight as possible because last time I did this the thread stripped as it is now.
Thank you in advance
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Get some nylock nuts.
The Helicoil is easy to do, if the thread is fully stripped out there is likely no need to drill it out any further, have you ever used a thread tap? You need to turn the tap in a full turn then back it out 3/4 of a turn, then in for 2 turns, back out 3/4. repeat until the tap bottoms out.
Wind the helicoil into the new thread using the tool supplied, and then use the tool to snap off the right angle piece. Job done.
when tightening the new stud into your new thread use a little locktite and double nut the stud to tighten the stud. you should not need excessive force, just normal pressure on a 10mm spanner.
The Helicoil is easy to do, if the thread is fully stripped out there is likely no need to drill it out any further, have you ever used a thread tap? You need to turn the tap in a full turn then back it out 3/4 of a turn, then in for 2 turns, back out 3/4. repeat until the tap bottoms out.
Wind the helicoil into the new thread using the tool supplied, and then use the tool to snap off the right angle piece. Job done.
when tightening the new stud into your new thread use a little locktite and double nut the stud to tighten the stud. you should not need excessive force, just normal pressure on a 10mm spanner.
So what I should is put loctite on the threads of the stud then screw the stud by itself into the new thread until the end of the new thread and then put a nut on the stud and screw till tight and then lock another nut against the first nut and repeat process for the rest of the studs?
Double nutting the studs is not a bad idea, but probably not necessary if you use a nylock nut.
But double nutting is the way to tighten your studs into the case.
But double nutting is the way to tighten your studs into the case.
Sort off.
you want to do all 2/4 helicoils at once, with the engine out of the bike.
then all 4 studs.
remount motor.
then use nylock nuts, or double nut.
you want to do all 2/4 helicoils at once, with the engine out of the bike.
then all 4 studs.
remount motor.
then use nylock nuts, or double nut.
I have already taken the engine off the bike and are awaiting the arrival of the helicoil which is due on Friday.
Thanks for your suggestions
Thanks for your suggestions
How would I hold the engine while I am working on it. Can I put it in a vice or will it damage it?
Hi Lachiepowder, yes you can put the entire engine in a vise with smooth jaws. Use shop rags to protect the engine and don't over tighten the vise. Take your time and insert the coil's to just below the surface just like a regular thread appears. Knock the tab off the bottom of the coil and your are ready to install the engine.
I'd like to help keep this from happening again by sending you a new set of BikeBobber Smart Engine Clamps at no charge. http://www.bikebobber.com
These are a new product and will retail for 19.99 a set including hardware (stainless steel SHCS & washers). All I ask in return is to give an honest evaluation of my product. Most bikes have 1.25 & 1.125 dia. tubes. Send me a private message containing your name, shipping address, and the diameter's of your frame tubes , front and rear. I'd say good luck, but you're not going to need it.
I'd like to help keep this from happening again by sending you a new set of BikeBobber Smart Engine Clamps at no charge. http://www.bikebobber.com
These are a new product and will retail for 19.99 a set including hardware (stainless steel SHCS & washers). All I ask in return is to give an honest evaluation of my product. Most bikes have 1.25 & 1.125 dia. tubes. Send me a private message containing your name, shipping address, and the diameter's of your frame tubes , front and rear. I'd say good luck, but you're not going to need it.
Thanks for the advice and for the offer I really appreciate it. I will send you my details in a private message when I get home form work because I can't remember my tube diameter.
Once again, Thank you so much
Once again, Thank you so much
