Home made motorized belt drive.. Is it possible with kids bike rim?

As I remember the Whizzer sheeve is about 15", a 20"(actually 16") rim would be very similar. The second gen Whizzer sheeves have the spacing for the newer wheels. I think the originals are different, somebody correct me if I am wrong. An all belt drive is very nice. Basically totally quiet, and with spring idlers maintence free. Both belts cost less than a bike chain at the local ACE, and are available just about anywhere if on the road. With the idler setup I have slippage is nil due to the belt wrap in the pulleys. The original Power Bike is cool with the idler clutch. I remember drooling over that thing when I was a kid. Mine is a little more user friendly. You can hand it to anybody that can ride a bike(my wife included) and the can easily ride it.

Easy! Ive done it many times. http://i26.tinypic.com/2a6jmn5.jpg sorry about the picture on tinypic. and I know im jumping into this late but...

with 20inch rim with 36spokes. The spokes cross at a point 9 times. Old metal or alum Little kids bike rim(remove hub and spokes and drill 9 holes, work the rim so its little skinny'er) and bolt to side of rim's spokes with 9 bolts with old bicycle brake pad washers so they grab a bite. Try to balance it as best as possible and tight them down. bang out, notch or offset the frames rear end.

I know you won't be able to tru the spokes like this and it takes the suspension away from spoked rims. But we are also bolting motor's to bicycle's. So who is too say what and what we can do. If you do the sandwich theory like most motor mount kits with leather pads try to go as close too the hub as possible so your spokes are fully functional.

Then front v-belt gear from ace hardware and tensor clutch like on rideing lawnmowers. Push or pull that clutch. hand lever and cable or suicide foot pedal like myn. and scream goes the belt! its a very unique noise.

total cost$$$. nothing. no welds. no special hubs. But won't last in time.

Here’s a wood sandwich but does need some fixing as the outer thinner wood did crack a bit on the middle spoke.

I did this before and it worked, but I had more space on a smaller diameter rim to use larger wood pieces. I use 4 sandwiches and that meant that the cone shape the spokes make were less of a bump in the middle of the sandwich.

I am going to get some kind of nylon sheet special from some supplier that can handle the stress and be thin enough. So now it was covered over with Marine Caulking and is temporary to be replaced.

All the wood parts already have a veneer of resorcinol glue a type of epoxy then the red paint.

Note ther is no clamping on the middle spokes since the inside piece of wood is in the cavity area of the cone shape the spokes make. I considered cutting out the center of the three and making six clamps holding to 2 spokes each, but it seems I would have to check futher if it would do. I know ther would not be such an arc around the cone shape then.

Measure Twice

MEASURE TWICE said:

Here’s a wood sandwich but does need some fixing as the outer thinner wood did crack a bit on the middle spoke.

I did this before and it worked, but I had more space on a smaller diameter rim to use larger wood pieces. I use 4 sandwiches and that meant that the cone shape the spokes make were less of a bump in the middle of the sandwich.

I am going to get some kind of nylon sheet special from some supplier that can handle the stress and be thin enough. So now it was covered over with Marine Caulking and is temporary to be replaced.

All the wood parts already have a veneer of resorcinol glue a type of epoxy then the red paint.

Note ther is no clamping on the middle spokes since the inside piece of wood is in the cavity area of the cone shape the spokes make. I considered cutting out the center of the three and making six clamps holding to 2 spokes each, but it seems I would have to check futher if it would do. I know ther would not be such an arc around the cone shape then.

Measure Twice

Click to expand...

Not to be smart but seem like you are going through a lot of work and exspence when you can just but a Wizzer pully from Simson motor bikes for $39. What I did 50 years ago was take the large front sproket and hug the hole out and fit it over the rear spoke hub and had it welded. I run chain drive up to a jack shaft. But one could do a plate and bolt a pully to it. There was someone that did something simular to that not to long ago here on the form I think it was Fishguts. http://motorbicycling.com/f41/something-new-kinda-sorta-100-years-23307-45.html#post314154 But not sure Just my thoughts...........Curt

I am checking on that thanks. I just saw back 2 years ago about $150 but this site has around $40 for the sheave and the mounting clip and screws I don't know how many you are required to mount it so I am contacting them. I expect maybe with the mounting parts plus shipping & handling about $65 to $70.

Also I am using the Link-Belt

so I wrote:

First will a
Accu-Link part A-LINK-5
A and is for V-belts
and is 1/2" top width, 11/32" height
fit the Whizzer type Sheave?

I have enough parts that I can have a spare wheel with the pulley of mine an the sheave on another. If they are different diameter then different ratio too that I could have. Link-Belt make the belt legnth easy to adjust and I have adjust ment with engine an jack shaft also.

Measure Twice

Check out my threads.
I have 3 MB's setup with a Rim2Rim Vbelt pulley drive system.
Hope its helpful.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=31691
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=30208
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/pocket-bike-engine-project-31377.html
-Lowracer-

Build a Motorized Bike Plans
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