Chain to slack on top

the spring tentioner should be used as the second tentioner to remove the last of the play(the 1/2 -3/4 they talk about on here),after the solid adjustable one,(called an idler beacause it dosent move) is properly in place holding most of the slack out of the chain loop,the top chain slack ,you may be needing a stronger spring, but even w/a spring tentioner the top chain slack will appear when ever you let off the throttle or start the motor,that is why the solid mount Idler is needed also

Like corgi said, use your idler. Spring tensioner's can work, but you need a really strong spring. Once the top gets too slack it can jam(!) and lock up the rear tire, which can be a handful at speed(as you can imagine).

Once the idler is aligned, don't forget to drill a small hole to put a screw to keep it from rotating into your spokes and trashing your rim.

A half inch of play in the chain is lots(with idler), you don't want it too tight either, that can cause problems with bent axles.

gl.

I opted to forgo the standard tensioner in favor of a spring tensioner. I found that an additional spring needed to be added. It's been on for a year and a half and I haven't had to touch it. I doubt that you can put too much spring on it unless you go find some big oversized thing. Just go to a hardware store and get a small real stiff helper spring and find a way to attach it. I had to drill some small holes, but it was no problem. Good luck. Dan

The solid mount "idler" makes it work properly,,the addition of a spring "tentioner"is used to clean up the 1/2-3/4 inch play thats left(reduces noise and viabration and excess wear on components and chain caused by chain slop