Is head on the right way?

pitchy · Feb 23, 2016

Hi, I`m new to this sport and just got my new kit today, it`s the Silver Slant engine kit from Gasbike.
I am pretty happy with the quality so far and got quite a ways with the build today.
After looking at some pictures of these engines and the picture of the engine on their web site it looks like the spark plug angles forward.
As you can see my engine it angles toward carb, did they put the head on backwards, does it matter?
The plug isn`t in it in this picture but it does angle toward the carb.
Thanks.

2door · Feb 23, 2016

Welcome to the forum. We're glad you've joined us here.

It doesn't make any difference which way the plug slants. Either way will work fine. In some installations the cylinder head can be rotated 180 to give more spark plug clearance to the bike's frame but in your case it won't matter.

Good luck, have fun and ride safe.

Tom

pitchy · Feb 24, 2016

Thanks Tom glad to hear that. dance1

I went over the engine and have only found one loose stud on one of the mounts and lock tighten it in with some blue.

We got, the wife and I, quite a ways with it yesterday only have to mount the tank and muffler and wire it yet.

I`m 61 years old and weigh 245 pounds and the yard is ice and snow so it will be an interest first spill, I mean ride.
Been riding Harley`s for 45 years so how hard can it be. lol. :-||

I`ll post a couple more pics later today.

Lenn

pitchy · Feb 24, 2016

Got it done, started it and ran it a little but it`s to slippery but it ran good with hardly any vibration so I`m happy.
That factory tensioner scared the heck out of me so I fabricated a new one, kinda chunky but it isn't going anywhere.
Thanks for looking .

2door · Feb 24, 2016

Looks good so far. You've done well.

As for the tensioner; your design is superior to the kit bracket. It should work well for you. As a side note, have you tried not using a tensioner? It appears you have drop outs that will allow some chain tension adjustment. It doesn't need much. Just 1/4" of movement will provide a surprisingly big difference in chain tension. Also remember that you'll want to maintain 1/2" to 3/4" of slack in the chain.

You might also want to do some reading here about the hazards of fenders and how to reinforce the factory fender mounts to prevent a potentially dangerous condition. Fenders are nice to have but if not addressed they can hurt you.

Keep us informed as to how it performs for you...after that snow goes away

Tom

pitchy · Feb 24, 2016

Thanks Tom, I can`t run it without a tensioner the lower part of the chain rubs on the frame. I`m running about that amount of slack in it so should be good.
Sorry but ya lost me about the drop outs ?

Edit, I see what your saying about the drop outs but I think I`ll see how this works out first.
As for the fender I`m going to see about fitting the side skirts back on it.

2door · Feb 24, 2016

Here is a link to a 'Search Result' regarding fenders. Take a few minutes and read some of what has ben discussed here. https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=partn...id=2652665#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=fenders&gsc.page=1

I know what you mean about chain/frame interference. This is common when the chain stays are tapered inward at the front. That often dictates the use of a tensioner. However you have probably taken care of the evils associated with the tensioner with your design. Good job.

Tom

pitchy · Feb 24, 2016

I see what ya mean with the fenders, I doubt this bike will ever see pavement or go very fast.
I live in the country and will probably only go to the mail box and back which is 200 yards long.
I might have to install a bigger sprocket for more power.

pitchy · Feb 24, 2016

Kinda quiet around here, thought might be some more comments on a first two day build.

2door · Feb 24, 2016

pitchy said:
Kinda quiet around here, thought might be some more comments on a first two day build.

It always gets this way about this time of the year. Folks get cabin fever after a long winter and want to ride and not spend time on their computers. Things will pick up when the weather gets better.

Tom

pitchy · Feb 24, 2016

Yep yep.
Cabin fever here.

Venice Motor Bikes · Feb 24, 2016

As Tom said, "It will run the same with the spark plug in the front or rear, & sometimes you'll need to have the plug towards the front for frame clearance"; but the engine will run a little cooler with the plug at the rear (because that puts more cooling fins in the front where the wind is (& over the exhaust port) which is the hottest part of the engine).

pitchy · Feb 25, 2016

Thanks, I do have a question, I`ve read here about taking something off the spark plug to get the plug wire to work.
This one the plug has the cap on it but the plug wire is made to snap over it am I missing something ?

Venice Motor Bikes · Feb 25, 2016

Look inside the cap... does it look too small to snap on the tip of the plug?
If so?, you can unscrew the tip of the plug so the small cap can fit it.

pitchy · Feb 25, 2016

Sorry I should of been clearer, I`ve been a mechanic most my life.
I thought maybe there was something else the manufacture put on the plug that I read about that had to be removed.
Naw this wire plugs right on no problem with the cap on the plug, I know what your referring too where ya have to remove it.

Wish there was some dirt to ride on I`m anxious to ride this bike a little.

pitchy · Feb 25, 2016

Just looked in on your website, really nice bikes you made.
I don`t think I seen one with a chain tensioner, do you modify the frames for clearance?

2door · Feb 25, 2016

You'll be better off to discard that kit supplied spark plug boot and replace it with a good automotive quality item. The kit boot requires that the top cap on the plug be removed leaving just the threads. This makes for a poor electrical connection plus the fact that the kit boots are notorious for coming apart, breaking and/or vibrating loose. In my opinion they are the weakest link in the kits along with the tensioner bracket.

A boot with a metal contact inside it that firmly snaps onto the top of a spark plug will give you a much better connection. Of course this will require a new spark plug because many kit plugs have the cap removed. Many of us use a NGK plug, specifically the NGK- B-6 is a good place to start with the gap set at .024 to .028.

Good luck.

Tom

pitchy · Feb 25, 2016

That`s kinda what I was getting at, this engine came with a plug wire that the boot snaps onto a plug with the cap.
I can change it out but it looks pretty solid.

2door · Feb 25, 2016

pitchy said:
That`s kinda what I was getting at, this engine came with a plug wire that the boot snaps onto a plug with the cap.
I can change it out but it looks pretty solid.

There are a few suppliers who have responded to the problem with the old plastic boot and have begun providing us with a proper one. You might be one of those fortunates who got a good one. If, as you say, the boot snaps onto a plug with a cap then you're good to go.

Tom

pitchy · Feb 25, 2016

Yepper, no problem there, this whole kit seems to be pretty nice but time will tell.
These old style single speed bikes sure don`t peddle as they used to when I was 20 years younger. lol

Is head on the right way?

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