International Harvester Company, the same people that make big trucks, tractors and all kinds of farm equipment. In their later years of production, they called their trucks Navastar. Made their own engines too. A IHC Scout owner is proud when someone calls his vehicle a corn binder.
Four Wheel Project
- Thread starter msrfan
- Start date
Ha! Everybody knows Farmall in Iowa (even the city slickers).
Many a hardy debate about Green (John Deere) vs. Red!
Many a hardy debate about Green (John Deere) vs. Red!
I've got the Scout III body off and the chassis up on the table for some repairs and upgrades. Getting it ready for the International Harvester Western Regional meet next weekend.
Installed the electric start Briggs 5hp I.C. motor. Had to bend the exhaust pipe a little.
Also installed a center support bearing to the diffy to strengthen it up some.
Still need to wire the starter and switch. Also have to fab up new throttle linkage.
Installed the electric start Briggs 5hp I.C. motor. Had to bend the exhaust pipe a little.
Also installed a center support bearing to the diffy to strengthen it up some.
Still need to wire the starter and switch. Also have to fab up new throttle linkage.
Yeah Steve, they're a great group of guys that hold a charity raffle at the meet and some of them want to buy the little Scout. You would think after they build their own full size 4X4 they would realize all the money and hours of work go into a project. But they still only offer about $500 for it. I just tell them to read the build thread and get back to me, although it's not for sale. My great grand kids will have a ball with it long after I'm gone.
It seems that everyone has wants but they don't want to pay to fulfill them. When I was typing I was picturing the crowd sidling up to you and asking if it was for sale and then making a short change offer.
You've done the hard work and left a record and plans for everyone to follow. Probably no one will.
Steve.
You've done the hard work and left a record and plans for everyone to follow. Probably no one will.
Steve.
The linkage from the foot pedal to the carburetor is finally engineered and installed using ball joints, yokes, all thread and assorted brackets, pivots and arms. I had to reverse the direction because this carb control has to be pulled instead of pushed like the original. All the way down with your foot engages the choke, so I eliminated the choke cable. May have to go back to the hand choke, but I'm out of time. Greg's picking it up tomorrow.
Going to get the wiring done today as well as mounting the smaller battery into the original tray I made for the tractor battery that went dead.
Going to get the wiring done today as well as mounting the smaller battery into the original tray I made for the tractor battery that went dead.
I made a wooden tray for the new battery and reconfigured the hold down strap.
Mounted the starter solenoid on a cross member. Put the wires in loom and installed the new ignition switch.
Starts and runs great. Back on the road and ready for the big weekend in the desert.
Mounted the starter solenoid on a cross member. Put the wires in loom and installed the new ignition switch.
Starts and runs great. Back on the road and ready for the big weekend in the desert.
After a weekend in the desert, the little Scout is back for some repairs and upgrades. The Electric start motor performed well so I'm adding a few things. I replaced the long horns with a pair from a 1966 Buick Electra, installed a horn relay, a master disconnect switch, a terminal stud for all the positive wires and a volt meter. Relocated the horn button, lubed and adjusted the drive chain, patched a tube and loomed and zip tied all the wires. Also added an inline fuel shut off and hooked up the tranny switch so it only starts in neutral..
Almost ready for the next outing. May have to overhaul the clutch. It's a Max Torque belt drive and is real grabby.
Almost ready for the next outing. May have to overhaul the clutch. It's a Max Torque belt drive and is real grabby.
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Lookin' good, Msrfan!
(Side, personal note, loving the pics thing with forum upgrade, thanking our host, Eric and gonna scream next time some body whines about wanting to revert! lol)
(Side, personal note, loving the pics thing with forum upgrade, thanking our host, Eric and gonna scream next time some body whines about wanting to revert! lol)
After 7 1/2 years it's time to give the little Scout a proper dashboard. I've been adding things to the steering support but it had no real style. What brought this about was the need for a couple more controls. My grandson takes it to most of his off road events and they are usually in the high desert. So before we had to use a mirror with a long screwdriver, a flashlight and almost stand on our heads to adjust the idle and fuel screws for altitudes ranging from sea level to 6500 feet. Now that's in the past because I fabricated adjusters right on the new dash.
I started with a piece of 1/8'' aluminum with a lip on one edge that I've been saving for a special project. Mounted it to the steering support and located where I wanted the volt meter, knobs, horn button and ignition switch.
I figured I could link the dash knobs to the carburetor with long rods and pulleys to reverse their direction. That meant a bracket at the carb would be needed. I ordered the knobs and flange bushings from Mc Master Carr and Greg supplied the stainless 1/4'' round stock. He works at Schorr Metals and has access to a lot of stuff.
I finally got my little Craftsman 109 lathe set up and was able to make the 4 pulleys needed. I wanted real fine adjustments so the drive pulleys are small and the driven pulleys are larger, about 3 and 4 to 1 reduction with the finer one on the fuel screw. Connecting the pulleys with O rings and adding a twist giving them more surface area and making the knobs turn in the direction you would normally turn them at the carb. The bracket was quite a challenge getting the shafts to line up perfectly with the 8-32 idle and fuel screws. A short piece of speedo cable allows for a little deflection and takes any side load off the screws. Got it all together and it works great.
I also labled the controls on the dash for easy adjusting.
The throttle pivot arm had a too fast ratio, so I changed it so the pedal would have more movement for a steadier acceleration.
I started with a piece of 1/8'' aluminum with a lip on one edge that I've been saving for a special project. Mounted it to the steering support and located where I wanted the volt meter, knobs, horn button and ignition switch.
I figured I could link the dash knobs to the carburetor with long rods and pulleys to reverse their direction. That meant a bracket at the carb would be needed. I ordered the knobs and flange bushings from Mc Master Carr and Greg supplied the stainless 1/4'' round stock. He works at Schorr Metals and has access to a lot of stuff.
I finally got my little Craftsman 109 lathe set up and was able to make the 4 pulleys needed. I wanted real fine adjustments so the drive pulleys are small and the driven pulleys are larger, about 3 and 4 to 1 reduction with the finer one on the fuel screw. Connecting the pulleys with O rings and adding a twist giving them more surface area and making the knobs turn in the direction you would normally turn them at the carb. The bracket was quite a challenge getting the shafts to line up perfectly with the 8-32 idle and fuel screws. A short piece of speedo cable allows for a little deflection and takes any side load off the screws. Got it all together and it works great.
I also labled the controls on the dash for easy adjusting.
The throttle pivot arm had a too fast ratio, so I changed it so the pedal would have more movement for a steadier acceleration.
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I shortened the shifter about 3 1/2''.
The disc brake is mounted on the transmission and is very small with tiny brake pads.
So I looked through my junk and found a larger disc and a bicycle caliper to install.
After that, I can put the body back on and deliver it back to Greg.
The disc brake is mounted on the transmission and is very small with tiny brake pads.
So I looked through my junk and found a larger disc and a bicycle caliper to install.
After that, I can put the body back on and deliver it back to Greg.
Yes Curt, it's the original. It worked well before but needed frequent adjusting. Now that's possible while driving. I'll try to get a video of it in motion so you can hear those horns.
