Not yet... If you've always needed some choke to it then you're getting too much air already... but this extra air is coming from either a leak at the carb to intake manifold connection, the manifold to the cylinder gasket, or your carb may be partially blocked off on the fuel side making the problem more like not enough fuel than too much air...
are you using a fuel filter? and have you always used one?
Did you clean out the gas tank Really good before installing and using it? The chinese love to leave these little gifts of paint chips, paper particles, metal shavings, and other junk in there, all this can clog up the filter that's inside the tank at the petcock, if you remove the petcock you will see this filter... if it's clogged up with junk it can be cleaned and reused, but it's by no means good enough to block that junk from getting down into the carb.
Personally I just discard that in tank filter and run a see thru inline filter so I can see when it needs to be changed, they cost like $3 at most auto parts stores.
If you got good fuel flow from the tank... you can check by removing the fuel line from the carb and opening up the petcock and letting it drain into a gas container, if the flow looks restricted and not steady, it's most likely that filter starving the engine.
If that part flows good, then it's time to look at the carb, small particles of who knows what can block off or partially block off the float needle and seat valve or the main jet which would also make you need to partially choke the engine to keep it running.
The easy things to check are the carb and intake for air leaks, you can start the engine then spray a little carb cleaner, just a short blast at the intake right at the cylinder, listen to the engine, it may even kill the engine if the spray hits a leak, or it could rev the engine either way, you'll know there's a leak there... also check the base of the carb where it connects to the intake manifold for similar results.. any change in the engine means a leak.
If both these pass, then spray at the cylinder base, and the case's split line as far as you can reach, Case leaks are uncommon but I've seen one or 2.
The toughest leaks to detect are at the crank seals, but you can run the engine with the mag and clutch covers off, spray the carb cleaner as close to these seals as possible and listen for a change in the engine.
That'll help you find any air leaks...
The air leak checks are easy, but the fuel restriction checks aren't that difficult, I always check the easy stuff first, but mine was fuel starving due to the NT speed carb's fuel valve shedding off rubber particles into my needle and seat valve and main jet, the bike would run perfect but hit a wall at around 20mph and refuse to go any faster, and then if I stayed on the throttle it would begin to sputter and act like it was going to die. Once I found the problem and cleaned all the mess out it ran fine.. for about a day and did it again, at that point I gutted out the built in fuel valve at the carb and never had another problem but I finally ended up putting on a regular NT carb once everything was cleaned up again and it never ran better.