Help Needed, No fuel fkow

Help Needed, No fuel flow

I blew an upper connector rod bearing and it took the rings too.
I installed a new bearing and rings and now I have no fuel flow.
Good compression (No gauge though) and I can feel a vacuum pull on the manifold with the carb off. It looks as though there is some fuel in the cylinder. When I pulled the head, the cylinder is wet but the plug seems dry with only a faint smell of fuel.
It has spark and I just tried fresh fuel mix, it just won't start.
I've also checked the float level and the inlet and jet on the carb (Stock NT) for blockage.
I also pulled the magnet to check if the key was OK and it is. The magnet seems to be in the correct position when the piston is TDC going by pictures I've seen on the web.

I'm baffled. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

The fuel flow I'm talking about is the actual draw of fuel to the engine from the carb. The fuel line is clear and the bowl fills fine. I use an in line filter and pulled the petcock to check if the in tank screen was clogged. The main jet is clear as well. The carb slide works freely within the throat.
My needle has 4 settings and I ran it on the highest(top) notch previously. I've tested trying to start it with all 4 notches. Now, the needle is raised all the way, letting in as much fuel as possible and with the choke partially closed I can get it to semi start. It barely runs while pedaling and then stalls if I pull in the clutch. I also tried adjusting the float level to let more gas in to the carb bowl. I went from the standard 21mm to 20mm and currently its at 19mm.

I'm starting to suspect a compression problem. Maybe lower seals? Or a bad cylinder? I can't get it running to check for air leaks.

Like I posted, I have spark. Through the diagnosis procedure, I've tried a different magneto and CDI all of which tested good with a meter. No matter the combination of CDI and mag, the starting issue remained constant and spark was present. The best results I've had spark plug wise was using an NGK B5HS gapped at .035. I tried .022, .025 and .030 as well. Normally I run a B6HS gapped at .028 but tried the 5 with all those gaps in an attempt to get the motor running.

I worked on it all day today.... about 12 hours before I gave up. In the morning, I'm pulling the cylinder for a better inspection to see if I can find any cracks and to reseal it as well. I have no base gasket and use Permatex black non-hardening for assembly.

A note as well about head gaskets... I was running 2 but have tested it with this issue with 3 and only 1. Best results as far as "semi" starting have been with 2.

One question maybe some one can answer... When I pulled the magnet to check the key, there was a a some sort of seal or gasket behind it. Black in color, either hard rubber or soft plastic approx 1" diameter with the diameter of the shaft in the center. It's recessed on one side and I'm not certain of which way it installs as it was loose when I pulled the magnet. Currently, I reinstalled it with the recess out and tapped it back in to where it fits tightly. It's almost like a dust seal. So, if someone is familiar with this, my question is does it go recess in or out?

Some might ask if I put the magnet back the right way, and yes I did. The black seal thing I mentioned left residue on the back of the magnet while the front was clean, allowing for determination of the magnet's proper re installation.

That's most of the info I can think of right now.
Thanks for the responses so far.

I use 32:1, which seemed to work OK prior to blowing this bearing.

Tom-
Thanks for the input on the seals. Would those seals being bad affect the engine's compression?

Also, the piston is in correct. Shortly after break-in, I removed the manifold and scribed the skirt to match the port and then filed it out. Now it serves as a quick reference for orientation. I also only remove one clip on the rod when pulling the piston. Most of my tinkering is done on the left side of the bike with the exceptions of clutch adjustment or draining fuel.