So I just paid the local cycle shop $28 to true my front wheel and rear wheel. But now after only two days of riding I noticed my rear wheel is again wobbly as all ****. This bike is starting to become a money pit ! If its not one thing its another !! Is this a constant issue with these 2 stroke kits ? I would assume this is from the varied tension constantly put on the rear wheel spokes while accelerating ?? Is there anything I can do to keep the rear wheel true short of buying an ultra beefy new wheel with heavy spooked wheels ?? Thanks all !!! I am really enjoying this hobby , but feel kind of disappointed that I was naive enough to just think I could install this kit and hop on and go.
keeping rear wheel straight ?!
- Thread starter jwpowell19
- Start date
Did you use loctite or nylon lock nuts to secure the nuts and bolts holding the sprocket tight? It sounds to me like either you've got weak spokes or have not properly secured your rag joint. A sprocket adapter would eliminate any stress on the spokes.
I have found this to be a great solution, if you can spread your
rear end enough about 5 inches and they have it for 2 strokes as well
I believe
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/Freewheel-Sprocket-and-HD-Axle-Kit-w-Brake.html
rear end enough about 5 inches and they have it for 2 strokes as well
I believe
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/Freewheel-Sprocket-and-HD-Axle-Kit-w-Brake.html
If you have a single wall alloy rim with 14g spokes, then a rear wheel will never stay true for very long. They're just too light duty for going 25 or 30 mph.
There's plenty of alternatives that don't cost a whole lot. Look at some of the wheels Pirate Cycle sells for a start
There's plenty of alternatives that don't cost a whole lot. Look at some of the wheels Pirate Cycle sells for a start
had a couple folks with this problem - took a LONG time to get them to use the clutch more carefully
I taught them that it is not a motorcycle clutch where you need to spin up the engine to pull the plates together, but rather use your pedals to spin up the wheel to bring the engine up to meet it - took time to get them to hold the throttle firmly closed until the clutch was engaged, but after that, their wheels held up fine
I taught them that it is not a motorcycle clutch where you need to spin up the engine to pull the plates together, but rather use your pedals to spin up the wheel to bring the engine up to meet it - took time to get them to hold the throttle firmly closed until the clutch was engaged, but after that, their wheels held up fine
A sprocket adapter eliminates any stress on the spokes that would otherwise be caused directly from the torque of the drivetrain. You don't have to be a "hardcore" rider to use a sprocket adapter, either. The sprocket adapters come with sprockets that are designed for 415 chain, but you may want to consider buying a quality chain. The kit chain is not always of the highest quality. It can be decent sometimes, but it can also be defective right out of the box. Also, some kits come with 410 chain, some with 415. To my understanding (could be wrong) the sprockets that come with the adapters are not compatible with 410, only 415 or #41 roller chain.
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I'm having trouble finding a sprocket adapter that I'd be confident was compatible with my bicycle's rear wheel. I'd like to invest in one now while my rear wheel is freshly trued. I sent an email to Pirate Cycles yesterday about it, but have yet to hear back - they have a small list of compatibles, but the list doesn't mean much to me nor mention my random bike (Schwinn Delmar from Walmart). If any of you have recommendations for sprocket adapters and compatibility advice, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
You'll need to invest in a caliper, either digital or manual and take an exact measurement of the outside diameter of your hub then compare it with the adapters offered by the various vendors who make them. They don't always mention specific bike models in their ads but that isn't important. The hub diameter is the critical measurement that will determine if the adapter will work on your bike. We've seen different hubs used on the same bicycle model. The old Schwinn Jaguar was an example. Some of them had an elliptical shape to the hub ( the infamous 3 Mile Island hub) which made it very difficult to machine a matching adapter. Others had a standard hub which had a consistent cross sectional shape.
By "critical" I mean you must be accurate with your measurements down to the thousands of an inch. If you aren't familiar with using a caliper a machine shop could measure it for you.
Tom
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Like Tom said, you need to measure the hub diameter, but more than likely you need this one. It's the one that fits most of the Walmart coaster brake hubs.
"1.520-1.528" Fits the Shimano CB-110 COASTER BRAKE and others such as Hi stop, K stop, Falcon, and the Bendix coaster brake hubs."
