Another one way bearing failure!

I don't know about the different configurations available, so forgive me if this is a stupid question. Could you weld the one-way bearing solid and put a 12t freewheel on the output shaft?

Just wondering.

That's okay Fred; that's not a stupid question!

One problem you might run into is the length of the shaft that connects the pulley and the drive sprocket. The shaft for a 11/12T drive sprocket is 107mm long and the 10T is only 93mm.

Another problem is that you have to use a 100T pulley with the 11T or 12T, or else the gear ratio may be too low.

Since the 80/90/100T pulleys are available in a freewheel AND a solid, no-bearing configuration. To use the same shaft, you would need to purchase the following:

100T pulley (freewheel version)
107 mm shaft
11 or 12T drive sprocket

I'm not sure if you have access to a welder, but if you took it to a shop, they would charge you 20-30 bucks. This combined with the parts listed above and the shipping, plus all the work, you might consider a double freewheeling hub instead.

The other option? Find a 2nd bike at a garage sale for cheap and just use that if you want to take a bike ride without using a motor.

Me? I opted for no freewheel and I just had it welded solid. I can still pedal to get some momentum before I give it the gas, but I will admit that I can't keep up with my girlfriend by solely pedaling and I blow by her if I use the motor. I'm looking for a 2nd bike because I think it would be cheaper than buying a dual freewheel hub or changing the shaft and pulley to accommodate a freewheel.

If you are interested in a dual freewheeling hub, beware of Grubee because they apparently don't use ISO standard threads for their design, thus you can't just go to the hardware store and buy a nut/bolt if something fails. You might give the guys at http://www.staton-inc.com/home.shtml a call. They seem like a good, American company.

I hope that helps! Someone please correct me if I missed anything or got something wrong.

I use a Staton dual threaded hub wheel. It is a thing of beauty and worth every penny he asks for it. The caveat is I had to modify my 56 tooth rear sprocket to fit his left hand threaded freewheel. The standard Grubee sprocket center hole diameter and bolt hole pattern are different than the freewheel's.

Travboat, Sounds like you've been into these things for quite a while. Thanks for your information and knowledge.

My 4G doesn't have a one way bearing and it does have the HD 12t freewheel. So far it's very dependable. If it ever does quit me, I'll probably find a way to put on an EZM but so far, so good.

Ok, I have this one way bearing on my 4G trans but I have yet to run my kit also I just may be welding my one way bearing aswell if it fails. My configuration is the 4G 20/80 pulleys to 10 drive sproket with one way bearing, then the heavy duty hub from bikeberry.com with the freewheel 44 tooth sproket. Like I mentioned I haven't run this kit yet all parts are new and I hope all goes well. Thanks all for the info on the one way bearing.

Cheers to all,

i originally welded up my oneway bearing on my 4g, but i eventually turned a 6061-T6 aluminum bearing delete. works awesome.

You mean by making the delete there isn't any bearing at all. What about the cam lock portion bearings that are just standard sealed (non one way). Well what does the jackshaft spin on a bushing or does the 6061 support that kind of friction w/o maring wear?

it is a press fit chunk of aluminum that i made a center bore with keyway for a woodruff key, then i milled it to a size a few thousands of an inch bigger than the stock one way bearing. i then put the aluminum "bearing" chunk into the freezer for 4 hours. after that time i set the pully up on a 30 ton press and heated it with a torch to expand the bearings bore, the aluminum being chilled in the freezer caused it to shrink alittle. with some force from the press i was able to smoothly press the bearing delete into the pully. once the parts temperatures equalized they are not moving again. i have marked both when i installed it to see if it would shift or slide around with no second woodruff key between the pully and the solid bearing replace ment, but 3 months later it hasnt moved a millimeter. there is astill the astock bearings in the cam that the jackshaft rides in, i just made a delete for the one way bearing

hmm, my pictures didnt show up, but if you click them they will take you to the pictures and you can see what i made

Oh thats sweet man. I like the way that turned out.

I got my non methanol gas this morning but I couldn't get the thing to start. It's not making fire. I did check my plug the torch one and it was showing 0.60mm. I dunno I had to put it up and get my pedaling bike and have to deal with it after work.

well I got it running but just like I thought my one way failed lasted 5 seconds flat. I'm gonna get my bearing welded. Your fix for the problem is very nice you should capitalize some on it for others that would be willing to work with you on that.

Cheers to all.

whats the diminsions for a oneway bearing for a huasheng 142f-1g 49cc engine