I have a brand new 80cc kit, when i had it it hard no spark, changed the magneto

No, it's not a dodgey engine. The engine relies on the ignition system which is a separate bolt on entity.
My first suggestion is that you disconnect both wires of the kill switch and at the same time cut off the cheezy push on factory connectors. Twist and solder all connections and cover them with electrical tape or better yet, heat shrink tubing.

To turn off the engine during this troubleshooting experiment you can either let the clutch out while the engine is at idle speed while holding the rear brake full on or turn on the choke and flood it to death. Note it may be stubborn to restart if using the choke method.
If this does not prove to be the problem, try a new spark plug.

Is this the kit you have: http://www.bikeberry.com/gas-engine...se-silver-66-80cc-bicycle-engine-kit-epa.html

Just curious as I have this one and have yet to get it to run or get spark from the spark plug. Three CDI changes so far and every one of them failed right out of the package. No spark and couldn't pass the ohm meter tests.

Abrahim1 said:

Thanks gor that gear nut.
i'm not a solderer or anything
i just want to know instead of soldering if i can get the double butt connector CDI Coil pack
or any other suggestions for me to get it running asap

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Like others said.....

Disconnect the Kill Switch, they can fail and get stuck in the "kill" position, which will kill your spark, that's what it is designed to do! After you get your motor running you can re-connect the kill switch and go from there...

Basically the quality of all the stuff in a china girl kit can be dicey, so the connectors/wiring are suspect when having problems, even on a new kit. That is why people suggest you cut off the butt connectors and make a real connection with solder. On my builds I cut off the ends and solder in a 3 pin waterproof trailer connector between the wires coming from the engine and the CDI box. This way you can still disconnect the motor wires to remove it but you know for sure you have solid electrical connections.

Since you have swapped out the magneto you should read this link, http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/Magneto Mystery.html . Note how you are supposed to sand off the varnish on the back side of the magneto before you mount it in the motor to ensure a good electrical (ground) connection between the magneto and the crankcase. Also note what it says about the solder connections on the magneto. It's not uncommon to have cold solder joints that fail on these magneto's, sometimes even when they are new.

The spark plugs that come with the kit can be bad, or fail, wouldn't be the first time I heard "I have no spark" and it turned out to be a bad plug. Change the plug with the spare they provide in the kit, even better put a NGK BP6HS plug in there. The NGK is not so easy to find locally in many cases, you can order online or you could also try an e3.10 spark plug which is carried at Home Depot and most hardware stores. I run the NGK, but I've tried both and they both work very well in these motors.

The spark plug boot and wire that comes on the CDI is crap, so you want to either replace that with a quality automotive wire and boot or at least inspect what you got to make sure its in proper order. BTW, did you unscrew the cap from the spark plug before you pushed the boot on it? You should see a threaded stud on top of the plug, not the press fit connector when you push the kit boot onto the plug.....

Hopefully one of tips that have been brought up by the many people in this thread will get you rolling....

don't use butt connectors or push together connectors on your wiring.
solder and heat shrink all of your wiring connections.
I'm not saying that using butt or push together connectors is why you don't have spark.
I'm just saying that these kinds of connectors will fail over time, and since you are doing the wiring, take a few extra minutes and solder everything.

Three bad CDI units pushes the bounds of credibility a bit. You're more likely missing something simpler. If you aren't up to troubleshooting this, then I'd say it was time for you to find some 'hands on' help in your area.

crassius said:

Three bad CDI units pushes the bounds of credibility a bit. You're more likely missing something simpler. If you aren't up to troubleshooting this, then I'd say it was time for you to find some 'hands on' help in your area.

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I took the last two CDI units I received to an electronics technician to test and he said they failed the continuity tests. Said they were wide open. I checked them with my digital meter and got no reading at all. I checked the magneto and got a correct reading of 332 ohm when set to the 2k setting as prescribed in BikeBerry's troubleshooting video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJFyDYIkElI

I agree. Three faulty CDI's make no sense. It's got to be something else excluding the kill switch because I've left that out of the lop to help isolate the problem.

My suggestion is to just make that basic circuit: black to black and blue to blue. Don't worry about connecting the kill switch or soldering or making it perfect until you figure out the wiring issue.

If that works, then connect the kill switch... Then if THAT works....make it perfect. You'll git r done!

Welcome to the forum Abramim. I wish I had something to add that would solve your problem, but so far it's all been nothing but good advice here. The solder joint on the coil, NOT hooking up the kill switch, ect. Just keep at it and don't give up. When ya do find the problem yer just gonna say SHEESH, That was easy, why didn't I see that the first time. I KNOW cause I do it all the time.
Good luck,
fatdaddy.

Maybe if none of this works, try 2door's OPTIONAL wiring plan. One of the wires from the kill switch would get connected to the white wire from the engine, capped and wrapped.

There is a die-hard faction of members that insist on this method, although I believe they are in the minority. Personally, I did not need to use this optional method.

edit: make sure the basic circuit works first before experimenting with the kill switch wiring.

Good point about the white wire 2door, What ARE ya doin with it bro? If it's touching ANYTHING, the frame, another wire or any part of the engine it will not run. CUT OFF THE WHITE WIRE.(or cap it off at least.)
fatdaddy.

If you are **** bent against soldering the wire connections, simply twisting the bare wires together and wrapping them with electrical tape will be better than any butt connector.
Longer lasting but not as much so as soldering.
Please keep us informed of how the troubleshooting is going for you!

fatdaddy said:

When ya do find the problem yer just gonna say SHEESH, That was easy, why didn't I see that the first time. I KNOW cause I do it all the time.
Good luck,
fatdaddy.

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Very true. In fact I just resolved the no spark issue with my engine. After double checking wires to ensure definite connections, pulling magneto and lightly sanding metal to metal contact surfaces to ensure good connection and grounding, isolating the white wire and discarding the kill switch from the equation, and reinstalling everything, the problem was............. I HAD THE STUPID CLUTCH LEVER PULLED IN! Therefore, the magneto wasn't turning while I was spinning the wheel and so obviously it wouldn't generate any spark.

Yes, many times the solutions to problems are too obvious and staring us in the face while laughing.

Now that I have spark, let's see if I can make this Frankencycle come to life.

I always use wire nuts to connect the wires. The little blue or black ones. No need to solder anything, and they're easy to unhook later for repairs.

Make sure the black wire has a good connection to the magneto body. Sand the metal a little under the screw where where the black wire connects, to remove the clear paint.

Is this the way you wired it?

Mopig said:

Very true. In fact I just resolved the no spark issue with my engine. After double checking wires to ensure definite connections, pulling magneto and lightly sanding metal to metal contact surfaces to ensure good connection and grounding, isolating the white wire and discarding the kill switch from the equation, and reinstalling everything, the problem was............. I HAD THE STUPID CLUTCH LEVER PULLED IN! Therefore, the magneto wasn't turning while I was spinning the wheel and so obviously it wouldn't generate any spark.

Yes, many times the solutions to problems are too obvious and staring us in the face while laughing.

Now that I have spark, let's see if I can make this Frankencycle come to life.

Click to expand...

SHEESH, Yep, the engine needs to actually "spin" the mag to make fire. Thats almost as good as the guy that didn't check for gas in the tank..
And make sure you wire it up like Biknut says. It's the RIGHT way.
fatdaddy.