1.5" roller upgrade for BMP Friction DriveKkits

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rohmell

Active Member
Jun 2, 2010
1,531
6
38
New York
I am sending out quotes to some local machine shops to make a drive roller for the BMP friction drive kit in a 1.5" size. The drive roller will be the same in every respect as the 1.00" and 1.25" rollers, except the diameter will be 1.5".

I am wondering if anyone here would be interested in such a roller, to see what kind of pricing I can get on a run of, say, 10, 25, or 50 pieces.

To use this roller, you will probably need a 52cc engine, such as the Harbor Freight Tools Auger engine.
DRIVEROLLER_125.jpg
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
1,319
2
0
Charleston, SC
rohmell,
Did you ever get any of the 1.5" rollers?
I'd be interested in getting one.
I have 5 brand new 1.25" & a 1" (I think)
Really like to have a 1.5" sprag (one way roller) but good luck...lol
-Lowracer-
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
1,319
2
0
Charleston, SC
:(
Too bad...I think the 1.5" on the pocket bike engine would be a hot friction setup.
I might just pop the engine on there w/ 1.25" to see how she runs
-Lowracer-
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
No one expressed an interest, so I never pursued having a bunch of the rollers made.
It would be cheaper to convert any of Staton's friction rollers to BMP drive, than it would be to fab new rollers.

Of course, this is without the one-way bearing, which did not work long for me on my BMP setup.:-||
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
1,319
2
0
Charleston, SC
5-7Heaven,
Do you think a high horsepower 2-stroke (3-4 hp) works well on friction drive or is better suited to 'non-tire chewing' methods of drive?
-Lowracer-
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
5-7Heaven,
Do you think a high horsepower 2-stroke (3-4 hp) works well on friction drive or is better suited to 'non-tire chewing' methods of drive?
-Lowracer-
I have run modified 460 engines on friction drive. Although many MBers haven't had tire-chewing issues, I believe I've worn through more tires than anyone on both forums, especially on high-hp engines. Another problem with friction drive and the 460 is its lack of torque at low rpm, ESPECIALLY climbing moderate hills.

I believe that the shift kit and extremely low gear ratios are key to keeping high hp/rpm engines within their narrow power bands. My 460 and Tanaka 47R engines work exceedingly well with shift kits,especially with 37.09:1 first gear. Steep ramps and gridlock traffic on moderate hills are easily handled. The 37.09 gearing is akin to Happy Time setup with an 89-tooth sprocket. Believe it or not, with 34.91:1 gears(like an 84-tooth sprocket), I have difficulty climbing the same ramp and hill.

On one particular hill near home, I always needed a good running star with the 460 engine and friction drive. It did not matter if I used 1.25", 1.375" or 1.50" rollers. Once the rpms dropped below its power band, it was like running a 1 hp engine. Also, there was no way of regaining low rpm while on a decline. I would have to reach the hilltop before the 460 would begin to increase its rpm.

Surprisingly, you don't need a super HD rear wheel to handle high hp with the shift kit. I've been using SS 14-gauge 32-spokes on double-wall Alex rims for a year. I've had one loose spoke, that's it, no other issues. My Armadillo tires have lasted a year with no appreciable wear. They should last for a few more years. When the rear tire wears out, I'll rotate the front tire to the rear and install a new front tire.

Hope this helps.xct2
 

lowracer

New Member
Oct 17, 2008
1,319
2
0
Charleston, SC
5-7Heaven,
Yeah, all the great info from our experienced members is very helpful...thanks for your input.
Thinking about it gives me an idea for a pocket bike engine, bottom bracket jackshaft, front drive with 8 gears on the front wheel hub & a derailleur ala front drive recumbent.
No...gotta stop thinking...3 MB's is enough...lol
-Lowracer-