American Deluxe hybrid trike

GoldenMotor.com

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
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northeastern Minnesota
While Steve was busy with the steering on the tri-car I set to work on the wheel flanges for the delta trike. Great progress today! Having already punched each spot for the spokes with hammer and punch to make a dink in the metal, I then drilled out a pilot hole in the center of each wheel flange and then drilled out the spoke holes big enough for 11 gauge spokes. Then I drilled out the central hole with a stepped drill bit from harbor Freight. The biggest size on it was 3//4" and it turned out be be right on the money. I paid about six bucks for that bit and it did an excellent job! The axle slides right in with absolutely no slop. With that done I used a bit slightly big for the spoke holes to give each one a beveled edge on both sides of each disc. Spokes fit nicely and no broken drill bits. I used an inexpensive drill press for these operations (thanks again Curtis Fox!) and it performed admirably. This is the way to go in making these flanges. Heck with filing them out when you can drill them perfectly.

What's left is to cut the discs free from the steel bar and make them into circular discs. I'll detail that when the deed is done.
SB
 

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curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
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Looking really good moving right along on that rear. Maybe that is why they quit selling them to small around.....................Curt
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
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northeastern Minnesota
A little progress report...

The wheel hub discs have been cut out with the side grinder fitted out with a cutoff disc, rounded out to shape with a stationary grinder and are now ready to be welded to the original riding mower wheel cores. Hopefully that will be done today so that I can lace up the new hubs to the worksman rims with the worksman 11 gauge spokes. I'll unlace one wheel at a time so that I have the other to stare at while trying to follow the same lacing pattern Worksman used.
11 gauge spokes are thicker and less flexible than narrower spokes, so they are also a little more difficult to work with. Big sigh of relief coming up when the wheels are done and on the axle. Fasteddy and this old bear are off on a cross country trip to the east coast in two days, so we're also trying to get things wrapped up herewith the tri-car and buttoning the place up.

Along with packing for the trip the American Deluxe frame is going, too, since Steve wants to engage his son's help in re configuring the rear part of the frame. His son's buddy has a pipe bender for auto work, is a super welder, etc. so that with luck the bike frame will be modified and ready for us to fit up as a trike when we are back in Minnesota. The differential axle is also going along for the ride as it will determine the width of the new frame members. I re-installed the pedal crank so that pedal clearance is also observed in altering the frame. Pedals will be functional for purposes of legality mostly.

I also got the side panel removed from the Atco mower so that we could take a look at the way power was transferred from the engine to the roller for moving the mower along (like powered wheels) and for turning the grass cutter assembly. Good grief. There are six sprockets and multiple chains, all nicely done. One can of beer later and after much creative staring it is likely that we'll pretty much leave alone what is there other than improving the chain tensioner with an altered skate board wheel. The cutter will be taken apart in hopes that the blade part can be removed from a central shaft. The shaft would be left in place with the idea that at a later time a smallish alternator could be fitted for making a lighting circuit.

Same goes for the big roller at the rear of the mower. We'll take it apart in hopes that there is a central shaft that can be used as a kind of jack shaft with a sprocket going to a corresponding sprocket on the differential. Surgery will have to wait until after the trip east to see how difficult or easily this can be accomplished. With luck we can re-use both shafts as jack shafts. The engine will utilize the cradle it is bolted in to. Mower handle will be removed, but hopefully most of the mower set up can be transferred to the trike frame.

I also cleaned up the differential and axle shafts with a wire wheel and bolted a second, smaller diameter sprocket from one of the other donor mower axles to the other side of the differential. Our plan is to eventually grind off the teeth from the sprocket and use the now toothless sprocket as a brake rotor for a heavy duty disc brake. The caliper will be purchased at Northern Tool and is designed for racing go karts. The caliper comes with a mounting bracket. Hope this works out! This will leave a remaining need for yet one more sprocket on the axle, a small one to receive the pedal chain. I did some looking around on the Atomic Zombie site trying to re-find information on using a salvaged bicycle free wheel for this purpose. If there is a way to mount it directly to the trike axle it will do away with the need for yet one more jack shaft. While I don't plan to pedal the bike around, the pedal needs to be functional and to be functional it needs to freewheel. Lots of stuff to think about, but it beats watching game shows on T.V., (if I had one to watch).
SB
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
http://www.airheart-brakes.com/cal-mb1.html

Above is the link for the Airheart brake caliper sold through Northern Tool and Amazon. I was interested to see that this mechanical brake is available through the factory in different configurations... varying lever arm angles and a version of the brake with a spacer to allow for a rotor up to 1/4" thick. I just measured my sprocket for the differential and it is 1/4" thick, so I'm glad I checked the company website. If I had purchased through Northern Tool I'd have gotten the model with standard spacing. This is going to work and I don't see my "rotor" wearing out anytime soon. Replacement pads are available as well. This is going to be a winner as the brake caliper has gotten some great reviews by Kart guys. We probably won't order this until the frame has been modified and we see how the caliper will be mounted... then we can figure the best angle for the brake arm and order the Goldilocks model, the one that's just right!
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Yesterday I did some more stripping of paint from the bike frame and then set it next to the Atco mower to help myself visualize things, like how much space will be needed to be added to the bike frame to accommodate the engine, jack shafts and differential? Mocking up as well as you can helps to plan what is to come. Just a couple of pictures for show and tell.

Off to Maryland Monday morning. I'll ask Steve to take some pictures from Vermont showing modifications to the bike frame as they happen. I'll look forward to his progress report.

If there's time today Steve is going to weld the wheel flanges to the cores for making the hubs. If they're done before we leave I'll pack up the Worksman wheels and take them with me to Maryland so I can lace them up there and be that much further along when work resumes in Minnesota.
SB
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
The hubs are done and I couldn't be more pleased with how they have turned out. Steve has a new welding helmet that he says is a great improvement over his old one that we bought a couple years ago at Harbor Freight. The more expensive one allows him to see a whole lot better and that helps to improve the welds. His second hub has cleaner welds than the first one, but both have good penetration and will be plenty strong.

They have both been primed and will go with me to Maryland to be laced up into the Worksman rims. We did it! These are going to be great wheels...
SB
 

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maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
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memphis Tn
Very impressive powerplant! I LOVE those old reel mowers!
I remember doing my Dad's lawn with one WAY back when. Always loved the super clean cut and excellent mechanical action with the helix blades.
Your hubs do homebuilders proud!
Your adaptation looks to be right on track!
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
We have not yet left on our cross country trip due to mechanical problems with Steve's camper. Perhaps today it will be fixed. While waiting for parts I shot the hubs with finish enamel, Van Sickles tractor paint in Ford grey which looks like a fawn beige in some lighting conditions. I thought the trike might look a little more old timey in a not so flashy color. Might do some pin striping accents in black.

Anyway, two coats of the shiny stuff later the hub was ready to lace up into the wheel. I finished both wheels last evening and this morning trued them both and got them dressed up in new tubes and tires. Cyclops tires are 2.40" wide and I like them. I also finished filing out the key-way in the hubs, so they are ready to mount to the differential axle. I'm very pleased and think they turned out great.

More time to kill so I've started stripping down the suspension fork from a light Harley Davidson motorcycle. I'll strip away most of it with a wire wheel mounted to a side grinder. I'll also use a wire wheel on a bench grinder and finish up with whatever it takes to get into the small spots... emery cloth I suppose. I hope to get it in prime today and if dry by this evening will shoot it with a finish coat. Coming along, bit by bit.
SB
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
The triple tree fork has been painted and is back together.The fork has a couple of dinks in it I'm not going to worry about. It still looks nice and a dink or two in an old looking trike is something to be expected. I can go back and epoxy it, repaint and get anal about it if I want, but I suspect that won't happen. I used to be more fussy about the paint until I realized that by the time a build was together it already had scratches and blemishes of one kind or another, let alone the effects of riding it, stowing it away, loading onto a trailer, etc. I like the fresh new paint and think I'll like the color when it is all together. Pretty bland as it is, but we'll see.

The Harbor Freight dune buggy light has been made over into a headlight and I have replaced the halogen bulb with the works from a 32 LED flashlight, so it will be plenty bright for my purposes. I don't go riding around at 3:00 A.M. The headlight is there mostly because I like the way it contributes to an early motorcycle look and for the rare occasions I'm riding into the evening dark and want to be seen by motorists.

I discovered while the paint was drying on the forks that they not only are spring loaded, but also are oil filled (and now need refilling), so they should give a nice ride, smoothing out the road bumps. Along with the cushy fat tires, longer wheelbase and extra wide rear axle it should be comfortable and pretty stable as trikes go. Gonna be a cool old looking trike, mehopes.
SB
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Today I worked on stripping down the Atco mower to remove what we are not going to use and clean up what we are. I filled a coffee can (container) half way with gasoline, got a roll of paper towels, took lots of photos of how things are supposed to be so that I can get things back together again. I got some used baggies, a pen and paper to separate parts, keeping the appropriate sprocket with matching chain, etc. I know that I can't rely on my memory anymore, so labeling things and having a photographic record should help.
SB
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
The mower is shrinking with removal of the roller and cutter shaft. The cutter shaft is not going to work as a jack shaft since it is one piece and is square steel other than the machined ends. Still, it is needed due to the sprocket which fits a chain driven by the engine camshaft. It is an essential part of the drive line. so I have to remove the cutters to render the shaft harmless. I'll figure that out tomorrow. Probably will use the side grinder with cut off wheel.

The large roller has also presented a problem in that only one half of the drum could be removed. The other is locked into place and needs to have the bearing come out (third photo) in order to separate the inner shaft from the roller. Steve says there is a tool for that called a bearing splitter which is news to me. So I'll be looking for the right tool to make that happen. When it is a shaft minus roller we can mount a sprocket to drive a chain to the differential axle, essentially turning the roller shaft into a jack shaft.

Sprockets and drive chains have been cleaned in gasoline and bagged for later reassembly. Taking the mower apart took up much of the day.
SB
 

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cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
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Colonial Coast USA.
Wow SB cant believe I havent seen this thread! Talk about tunnel vision. Outstanding job on the wheel fab. What an act of dedication. I cant wait to see this finished. This has to be the coolest trike ever!

A suggestion: if you are ever making more of the wheel hubs. Do your lay out with a 1/4" center pilot hole, complete the spoke hole lay out and drilling then obtain a GOOD quality hole saw of the proper size and simply cut the discs free. (Hole saw pilots are 1/4"). Then drill the pilot hole to what ever size you need. I used this method making my own prop hubs for aero experiments and it yielded a very true hub and saves a bunch of time.
I am impressed with how nicely the hubs turned out!
Will be following this thread now!
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Wow SB cant believe I havent seen this thread! Talk about tunnel vision. Outstanding job on the wheel fab. What an act of dedication. I cant wait to see this finished. This has to be the coolest trike ever!

A suggestion: if you are ever making more of the wheel hubs. Do your lay out with a 1/4" center pilot hole, complete the spoke hole lay out and drilling then obtain a GOOD quality hole saw of the proper size and simply cut the discs free. (Hole saw pilots are 1/4"). Then drill the pilot hole to what ever size you need. I used this method making my own prop hubs for aero experiments and it yielded a very true hub and saves a bunch of time.
I am impressed with how nicely the hubs turned out!
Will be following this thread now!
Good to have you aboard and thank you for the kind words and great advice. I can see the procedure you suggested working very well and saving time. If I ever do this again it will come in handy. I remain enthusiastic about using a riding mower differential axle and think using the wheel cores to make your own hubs is a good thing. With the whole core keyed to the axle from one side of the hub to the other (and on both wheels) it has to be a really solid connection of wheels to axle, certainly better than what Worksman is selling with their trike wheels and theirs are the best I've seen. With the torque going to a motored trike it seems to me that strength of the trike conversion kits is questionable... good enough for pedaling, but maybe not enough for a motor. I'd like to think my axle and wheels are bullet proof.

Any suggestions along the way with this build will be appreciated as I'm winging it and often don't know what's coming next. Once the gas part of this is done I'll be setting up the Golden Motor front wheel and will be ready to tackle making up my battery pack. Be ready for some questions, please!
SB
 

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
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I think if you put that bearing on a anvil and give it a good wack the outer race should break. and then you heat the small race it should come right off.
Watched the mill rights at papper mill take off big bearings and reinstal,dry ice on the shaft bearing in the oven they slip right on..............Curt
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Thanks, Curt.
I already found a splitter on ebay for $12.00+ shipped and have it on order. It may be that I will still need to heat up the inner half of that bearing... do you think? I want to be able to re-use it minus the drum half of course. I'm beginning to get optimistic about this thing working...
 

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
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minesota
Yep if the splitter don't crack it. Another old trick is to put a bead of weld on each side something about the weld it draws and it should come off.

Coming right along loving it.sorry to here about the camper,he has a lot of trouble with that had to fix it before he left...............Curt
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota

moto-klasika

Member
Jan 12, 2013
584
18
18
Bern (more) and Belgrade (less)
... and, become famous as Isidora Duncan?
Only, she was strangled to death in Bugatti, in Monte Carlo (or Niza?) with young handsome driver beside her! However, trike could be good for that, too!
Not so glorious, but practical...
Ciao, Zoran