Is there a proper way to adjust the float in the (toilet) carb bowl?

deacon · Mar 24, 2008

yes sounds like a leak.....

Okay you sealed the manifold joint
you sealed the manifold gasket
you tightened the carb screws

so where else could it be leaking...
Head gasket
butt gasket

have you ever removed the head or even loosened it.

Pablo · Mar 24, 2008

deacon said:
yes sounds like a leak.....

Okay you sealed the manifold joint
you sealed the manifold gasket
you tightened the carb screws

so where else could it be leaking...
Head gasket
butt gasket

have you ever removed the head or even loosened it.

I had the head off when I flooded it out when I first got it. I did reuse the gasket but torqued it properly - and there are no signs of a gross leak and compression is very tight. I suppose it could leak when hot. But at higher RPM with partial choking it was running fine......could have not been hot enough to leak...hmm.....Well I did order a new head gasket, just in case. I'll do Norm's glass plate and Al paint techniques....

Butt gasket - it does not appear to be leaking, but why would a leak down there cause such a problem? Why is the but seal anymore critical than the case half (down the center) seal?

deacon · Mar 24, 2008

well the only think I can think of is when you pulled the head, you took pressure off the bottom gasket. If it separated it might have torn it. That would cause a small leak. The head gasket controls compression but the butt gasket seals the jug I think. Air might pass the rings from there I suppose.

Did you notice if the butt gasket was glued I can't remember if mine was or not/

Pablo · Mar 24, 2008

Sure I unloaded and reloaded the butt gasket. Didn't jerk on it, though. Didn't notice if it was glued.

Someone will need to explain why it needs to be a pressure seal......Norman?

deacon · Mar 24, 2008

well beats me but it seems the only place left for air to infiltrate. BGJ thinks so as well. I think I would lift the jug seal it with sealer and try it again. Unless norman tells you not to use sealer. Seal on both sides of the gasket. You can probably do it without removing the jug. just lift it a little and do the seals.

Pablo · Mar 25, 2008

deacon said:
well beats me but it seems the only place left for air to infiltrate. BGJ thinks so as well. I think I would lift the jug seal it with sealer and try it again. Unless norman tells you not to use sealer. Seal on both sides of the gasket. You can probably do it without removing the jug. just lift it a little and do the seals.

I guess as they say - in due time. I want to go one slot rich this PM and see what that does.

Also - we need a little two stroke theory here. Do these little engines need a pressure or vacuum lower case? I know some premix needs to go down for lubrication, but if vented does it really effect running???

Lastly - one detail I forgot. IF I have a intake leak - it's still at the carb/manifold interface - when that VIOLENT backfire happened yesterday I swear I saw some small amount of smoke at the joint as well as out the carb....I'm using a nice o-ring and sealant goop - but maybe something is fundamentally wrong at the interface not allowing a good seal.

deacon · Mar 25, 2008

There is a school of thought that those slots on the intake manifold at the junction can leak. I have no idea since mine never did. Someone said his were cut too long somehow allowing an air leak there. I'm not quite sure how that worked. If you grind them down, the carb tube would seat deeper I suppose. I honestly don't know.

A backfire is a violent change in pressure so again I have no idea. It shouldn't be backfiring to begin with though. But a backfire might blow out your sealant since it has to go somewhere.

There is no internal pressure in the gas tank to my knowledge. It is my understanding that the tank is purely gravity feed so has to be vented to prevent a vacuum from forming when the gasoline is displaced. Which is really what a vapor lock is I think.

Pablo · Mar 25, 2008

OK I give up.

I fully enriched the needle setting. It didn't help much....it started right up as usual and I warmed it up. I revved it, did pretty darn good. Rev rev....zing....running well...rev rev....put helmet on.....again.......rev rev ...and then brooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooog dead.

Pablo · Mar 26, 2008

I still agree with Bike Guy Joe. I must have an airleak somewhere…..and I think it's STILL at the o-ring at the carb/manifold. I'm taking the o-ring out and using sealant only as I should have. The o-ring is too thick, the manifold inlet end is not flat nor is the manifold round. Plus I will use a nice hose clamp and get rid on the nubs on the carb.

deacon · Mar 26, 2008

Well let me know this is really a mystery to me.

Pablo · Mar 26, 2008

I'm gonna make that sucker so tightly sealed - if it ever backfires it's taking the carb out....like a mortar shot! rotfl

I did notice on full rich it never backfired....fwiw.

Envision the set-up with o-ring....as Norman said, it will need to be pressed and tightened.....but if the manifold isn't round, or isn't perfectly perpendicular with the o-ring face (carb inlet hole base)... there will be a problem....plus I used a FAT O-ring...further making leaks at the slot possible....

deacon · Mar 26, 2008

Yes norman has a point but when I did mine I went with the oring and no sealant. I have taken that thing loose a dozen times for one thing or another. I need to pull it again and put some kind of hose clamp on the gas line. My shop always smells of gas.

toytime · Mar 26, 2008

It's getting very hard to follow this thread so please excuse me if this is of no help:
To test for air leakage , if motor dose not stall with choke ON, you have an air leak.
When leaking, you tend to run LEAN, when you put the choke ON, you are enriching the mixture with more gas.

Pablo · Mar 26, 2008

toytime said:
It's getting very hard to follow this thread so please excuse me if this is of no help:
To test for air leakage , if motor dose not stall with choke ON, you have an air leak.
When leaking, you tend to run LEAN, when you put the choke ON, you are enriching the mixture with more gas.

Basically yes. But it also depends on how hot the engine is.

Pablo · Mar 26, 2008

deacon said:
Yes norman has a point but when I did mine I went with the oring and no sealant.

I think it's a luck of the draw thing. Ghost0 using nothing - no goop, no o-ring and his has no leaks.

I'll be checking it out and sealing with goop only tonight so we shall find out. (^)

To others reading this - if yours ain't leakin' don't go trying to seal it! :-||

toytime · Mar 26, 2008

Deacan: What I find works Just " OK" is a tiny zip tie. I get em at the dollar store in an assorted package. They are cheaper than a "real" ones but they ARE ALSO THINNER, allowing the tie to fit around.
Only other thing I can think of is some nice wire (copper?) and twisting it tight with needle nose . I also got rid of the "fish tank" fuel line and went with some nice thick walled aftermarket stuff. It was not as brittle and is rubber-like.

Pablo · Mar 26, 2008

I use small zip ties on mine as well.

But are you sure the smell is coming from hose connections?

deacon · Mar 26, 2008

Yes its wet around the fuel intake on the carb. Also it's a common problem. I am going to use the tie as its perfect for the area. A hose clamp it too thick.. Thanks I think you should move to the take a tip leave a tip and put this suggestion up there as well. it's a heck of nice little tip.

Pablo · Mar 26, 2008

I've used zip ties for small coolant hoses and sorts of similar applications.

When I took my carb apart I noticed the barbed inlet was very loose (and had weeped a bit) - may want to check it but it carries a Norman warning. That little seal gasket is made from unobtainium!

deacon · Mar 26, 2008

ah i think I'll tie it off and if that doesn't work my wife is getting used to the smell of gasoline so I'll just ride till someone throws a cigarette at me and explodes.

Is there a proper way to adjust the float in the (toilet) carb bowl?

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