So i just purchased a fixie thruster which has a sprocket on both sides on the rear hub. So I ordered a thread on sprocket for the motor side of the hub.. It fit perfectly but I just realized that the motor would just unthread the sprocket because it is not a reverse thread. Does anyone know how I can get it to not unthread? The only thing I can think of is JB Welding it, but If anyone can help me figure out a way to make it stay without it being completely permenant? Thankyou
Sprocket help?!
- Thread starter a0201618
- Start date
The only real way is to use the rag joint- unless it is a high flanged hub, and not already drilled with slots.
The hub is still a blessing- the sprocket gos on over the threaded section- way ahead of the game on many wheels-
A lock ring may help keep it on, but unless the motor sprocket is THREADED on a lockring will not hold it in place. I searched all over the world for a regular fixed track cog when I began to motorize, that was large enough to be of motor use- really "no go" - no one really makes a thread on cog larger than the small 20's in number- you may find a 24- still too small.
The best solution I've come up with is to find a fixie wheel or hub- a "track" hub if you will- that's threaded on both sides nut that has UNDRILLED smooth LARGE -FLANGED sides and drill the hub in the "six inner hole" pattern- also called the "disk brake" drilling"
and bolt the sprock directly to the hub- This saves the weight of the rag joint plates and the rubber pieces, and you can even use titanium bolts if you're really weight conscious. You could also use a rear disk brake hub, that has bolt on fittings already in it, but I've yet to find one that wasn't a CASSETTE as opposed to a freewheel hub- I still prefer a freewheel myself
You can get a built-up fixie wheel in 700c for about $70, but then you have to use a freewheel- one speed or multiple cog- and have handbrakes.
here's an old thread of mine about it- I've since gone to smaller alloy sprockets bolted on- it works great and reduces the sprocket and assembly weight to next to nothing:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=234139
The hub is still a blessing- the sprocket gos on over the threaded section- way ahead of the game on many wheels-
A lock ring may help keep it on, but unless the motor sprocket is THREADED on a lockring will not hold it in place. I searched all over the world for a regular fixed track cog when I began to motorize, that was large enough to be of motor use- really "no go" - no one really makes a thread on cog larger than the small 20's in number- you may find a 24- still too small.
The best solution I've come up with is to find a fixie wheel or hub- a "track" hub if you will- that's threaded on both sides nut that has UNDRILLED smooth LARGE -FLANGED sides and drill the hub in the "six inner hole" pattern- also called the "disk brake" drilling"
and bolt the sprock directly to the hub- This saves the weight of the rag joint plates and the rubber pieces, and you can even use titanium bolts if you're really weight conscious. You could also use a rear disk brake hub, that has bolt on fittings already in it, but I've yet to find one that wasn't a CASSETTE as opposed to a freewheel hub- I still prefer a freewheel myself
You can get a built-up fixie wheel in 700c for about $70, but then you have to use a freewheel- one speed or multiple cog- and have handbrakes.
here's an old thread of mine about it- I've since gone to smaller alloy sprockets bolted on- it works great and reduces the sprocket and assembly weight to next to nothing:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=234139
Last edited:
I have worked out my game plan for my bike now. I'm going to use a Shimano disc brake hub in a 26" mountain bike wheel, bolt a children's quad wheel mounting "spider" to the 6 x 5mm holes, and then bolt a sprocket to that. The fact I'm legally held down to 1kw or less output here makes it feasible. I wouldn't want to put much more power through it.
Staton-Inc.com sells freewheels for sprockets that they also sell (and you could buy cheaper sprockets from sickbikeparts.com) for a custom hub or wheel that has right hand threads for the pedal side and LEFT-HAND threads for the motor side. The hubs come in 36h or 32h and single speed threaded freewheel or multi-speed freewheel configurations.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
