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Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
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Calera, Alabama
if you got the 415 dirtbike chain, the wlly tool will break when u try to use it.

id spend the 20 bucks on a legit one from a bicycle shop.

mines lasted 4 years and has been used on dirtbikes 4 wheelers motorcycles and mbs

usflg
Cheap tools will break, most likely when you are stuck and need them. Since I don't travel at and great distances, and I have a cell phone for the wife to pick me up in my truck should I need her, I don't carry any tools whatsoever. A bench grinding wheel, a hand grinder, a dremel tool, or a drill and rotary file, works well if you don't have a breaker or it breaks, along with a drift punch. But a GOOD chain breaker is the best.
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
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Left coast
lol

Yah, trying to repair china engines using china tools can be a real exercise in futility!

Soft metal, brittle metal, poorly sized dimensions, in-accurate machine work...
It sometimes gets to be like that guy on Youtube... "What's Next? What's Next? What's Next!"

lol

Building in the apartment... it's hard.
I would determine exactly where you want the chain broken, mark it with a twisty, and go to the bike shop and ask them to remove the pin with their tool.
You really don't NEED to have one because they are NOT used very often.
Hopefully!

Best
rc
 

tonyskrazykustoms

New Member
Mar 17, 2012
17
0
0
port orchard, WA
yea all good points. for the situation and since i knew the chain was the weak one i figured it wouldnt hurt just so i could atleast go out and see if it was gonna fire up.
wich it did pretty damn quickly. i went on a couple lil circles in my parking lot trying to get my bike to idle then after got it idleing.(a lil high wich i think i fixed just wont know till i get a new chain and a new rear rim) but all in all i thought what the **** threw on the helmet and went for a lil cruise down the street for a longer straight ride. it lasted a good 15 minutes goin around the block a few times and then prolly hit a bump or hole and the chain got off the track and snapped and my flimsy rim bent haha.

any one know of a good cheapish rear rim? i got a 700c bike but i dont know if i can put a diffrent rim type on or not but im thinking if i cant figure it out online ill just take my bent one to a bike shop and see what they can do for me
 

twaddy38

New Member
Mar 10, 2012
10
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0
lempster,nh
bevel gear

how far does that bevel gear have to be on the shaft! Mine sticks out and is not engaging all the teeth on the large clutch gear. seems it won,t go any further. what,s up here? thanks, twaddy38
 

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
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Calera, Alabama
Re: bevel gear

how far does that bevel gear have to be on the shaft! Mine sticks out and is not engaging all the teeth on the large clutch gear. seems it won,t go any further. what,s up here? thanks, twaddy38
They should be flush with each other. If the woodruff key fell out and is behind the gear, it won't seat all the way.
 

Ayotaybrink

New Member
Oct 26, 2011
14
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New Jersey
Ive read multiple threads on clutches and have done just about everything so far.
So heres my problem With my clutch lever pulled in I can pedal the bike freely when i release the handlebar lever the clutch engages. However when the bike starts up and I pull in the clutch lever the clutch does not disengage. I picked up the back wheel with the bike running and lever pulled in and the tire was spinning still. Ive adjusted the flower nut as best i could. If i turn it one notch the left (loosening it) the clutch wont engage at all but if i tighten the nut the clutch will never disengage either so Im guessing the setting i have it at now is fine. Ive already tighten the clutch spring as i saw from norms thread. And i made sure the clutch arm has no play and the cable is tight and free of any tension. Im at a loss here Please help!
 

Genisisonyx29

New Member
Jul 8, 2011
207
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0
Merced California
hi there everyone. first id like to start off by saying my kit from bikemotorkit.com has given me nothing but problems. my problem at the moment is it wont start. a couple days ago i removed my baffle clompletely (i like the noise lol) i didnt notice much in performance and it ran just fine for a while. i retuned my carb and everything after i took the baffle off. ive got a spark, compression and im getting fuel. although i do have a cracked cylinder head gasket. yes, air does leak from it but it was running just fine while cracked. i checked my main jet to see if it had come lose which it did, and i got the engine to start for less then a second. then i checked my magneto, everyhing checked out fine. any advice on wat i should check or fix would be greatly appreciated.
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
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Left coast
Interesting to read your story... g29

At this point, probably the best place to start might be to pop the cylinder head off and see what's going on in there.

Check back with the group afterwards for more advice on what you discover???

Good luck
rc
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
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Left coast
Hey g29,

Well, what shape was that head gasket really in? now that you can see it in all it's glory ! :)

ANY damage, or evidence of leakage, is just not acceptable here in the land of miniature horsepower. Basically, you're not starting out with much, on the best of days, and we sure don't want to give up any, at all!

What does the top of the piston look like?
If the motor is new, it should be in excellent shape, yet probably black, wet and sooty, from the story you have presented...

What do the cylinder walls look like?
Are they smooth and clean?

It's important!

Actually, the bad head gasket, alone , could cause all the results you have described.

How's your mechanical skills?
Do you know about lapping a head to the cylinder?

Lapping the mating surface is a good step in the right direction to preventing a blown head gasket. ...which you did say you had...

Blown head gasket can be the sole cause of hard starting, failure to idle, and lack of power.
It can also lead to over-heating and poor fuel-air ratio causing the piston to cook in the cylinder, causing further damage to it, the rings, and the cylinder walls.

IMO, pulling the baffles out of the muffler was not the best of ideas, even though it probably makes kool noise. :)
Drilling it out a tad would probably have been a better way to go.

Lack of any back pressure may have caused it to run far too lean, hotter, and probably a loss of power, along with accelerated wear.

I think ALf had a good checklist to run down for diagnosis.
You might look for that here on the forum.
And of course, Lord Vader has tons of great info in his threads!

Good luck
rc
 

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
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Calera, Alabama
My son had a problem like you. Had to start by towing it. I suspected that there was a cylinder issue. Took the cylinder off and was worse then I expected. I had replaced a head gasket, (the gasket was defective from vendor). The gasket was cut wrong, hole a few mm small. Inspection found that the pieces got into the cylinder and jammed into the rings...piston, rings, and cylinder, FUBAR. I suspect you have a ring problem, hopefully not as bad as we did.
 

Genisisonyx29

New Member
Jul 8, 2011
207
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0
Merced California
thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it. ill try a new head gasket first and hopefully it fires up. the walls in my cylinder are nice and smooth. my engine is a couple months old and gets run hard so the top of the piston is black. i do brown grease on the walls though. i took a small engines class and was recommended to join the small engines team but i couldnt join (never had good enough grades for it). how do i take that piston out to get a better look at everything?
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
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g29, I dunno abt putting 'brown grease' on the cyl wall while u got it apart.

a black piston top is probably what is to be expected, considering what you have been through... it's kind of a good thing, at this point. :)

No reason to look at the piston any further.
Replace head gasket if mating surface is not irregular, or showing damage from where it was blown out.

If mating surfaces are questionable, slide the cylinder up off the piston, clean both surfaces, then lap each of them on some 400grit wet & dry sandpaper so there is a uniform frosty appearance throughout the mating surfaces on both parts. (You really should review one of the threads on this process, by one of the other members!)

If you proceed to that stage, and DO pull the cylinder, you will need to assure no garbage gets down in the crankcase, and you will need to replace the cylinder base gasket, also. NOT wise to use RTV or some other silicone product.

After you get this head gasket repaired you can begin searching for the other reasons why it won't run properly...

Best
rc
 

Genisisonyx29

New Member
Jul 8, 2011
207
0
0
Merced California
got my gasket yesterday and i slapped it on but it still wouldnt start. i took off the hole cylinder and didnt find anything wrong with it. im really stumped now.. do any of you guys have any advice