Map I didn't have a vibration problem I had a slow engine, the piston skirt covered almost 1/3 of the intake port. The bonus was less vibration and more power. I haven't had both crankshafts side by side but would like to compare a 48 and 66 .
I've always been under the impression that both engines used the same crank or at least I think thats what I've always thought, honestly I've never given the smaller engine much thought and if I've ever seen a crankshaft listed as being only for the 48/49/50cc I dont remember, I was thinking that the case was different to accommodate the smaller jug/cylinder and that the other difference was bore size with all else being the same,, I guess there could be a difference in rod lengths like with PK style engines vs Grube engines, not sure about that one either, if you can fill any of these gaps in for me here please do.....Map I didn't have a vibration problem I had a slow engine, the piston skirt covered almost 1/3 of the intake port. The bonus was less vibration and more power. I haven't had both crankshafts side by side but would like to compare a 48 and 66 .
Yes, with intake removed and piston all the way up also known as TDC/ top dead center you will see how much of the piston skirt is actually blocking the port you can either scratch it with a pointed something like an icepic or just use a sharpie magic marker or pencil, I always just scratch mine with a scratch awl which is like an icepic, no way for the mark to get rubbed off that way, I use my bench grinder to grind thematerial off but a dremel witha coarse drum sander will work good also, ever a round file can be used.This is interesting..
http://juicemotoparts.com/experimental-aluminum-wrist-pin-bushing.html
Map,do I mark the piston thru the ports before pulling jug in order to cutem?
Please enlighten us on what you mean by 60 degrees TheonSimply marking the piston at TDC, and opening the inlet fully, may not get you 60 deg.
Lol..... when I seen your forum name 60weight I had a good idea you were a Harley man, I dont have an old one but I love my Harley and when I compare it to my old *** bike it makes me want to throw rocks at the old Yamaha....lol no comparison..... old Yamaer Hammer is an OK bike for town riding but the comfort power or balance just aint there compared to the Harley softail custom.I did to Map...and a brass one,and a roller one
Reading here about porting and piston work.
Just used to the oil pumps on my old Harleys I suppose,gitting used to the way these 2 strokes oil
Still waiting on the titanium wrist pin, Juicemotoparts has been behind getting things shipped, I ordered the parts back on 3/15/2014 and still waiting, hopefully they will get it out to me next week and then when I have a chance Ill put it in the old BGF engine and see what the results are.Any updates on the bushed setup???
No, that's to show scale.Maybe that quarter was the problem?
I got a titanium wrist pin from Juice Moto & tried it. Right away I noticed how much smoother it ran in my Super Rat! But it didn't last. Within 5 miles the vibes started coming back. Within 10 miles, it was knocking the piston against the head. I killed it & pedaled home, yanking the head. Witness marks on the piston, but the head is okay. I pulled the jug & pin to discover a damaged pin. Old stainless pin is going back in. Maybe I can drill holes in my piston to lighten it, or save up my pennies to send my motor off to someone skilled to have it balanced properly.
My advice for those considering a titanium pin, DONT! It may have nearly the same tensile strength of steel but it doesn't hold a candle to case hardened stainless steel. It's too soft to use in an unbalanced two stroke. I lucked out & caught it in time before serious damage resulted. If I had been running flat out full throttle, my motor might be roadside shrapnel now. It did not last ten miles of easy cruising (20 mph).
Needle bearing. Bushing is heavier & defeats the purpose of using lightweight titanium.I plan to use a bushing instead of a needle bearing, which did you use?
I have thought about this also, I plan to weigh everything out and if it's as far off I think it may be then the titanium pin will not go in the engine, I can remove a few grams by notching and drilling the piston in areas that wont compromise strength are uncover a port, just doing that to a piston alone may remove just as much weight as would be lost with the titanium wrist pin, but by doing this to the piston it is possible that the mod will allow the titanium pin and brass bushing to still have less weight than the steel pin and needle bearing alone, oh well, when and if I ever get the titanium pin I can mess around with it and see whats what, I am just getting more and more skeptical about using it at all, the idea of a lighter pin is great but if it wont hold up then its just a waist of time and may only cause people to destroy an otherwise good running engine.Needle bearing. Bushing is heavier & defeats the purpose of using lightweight titanium.