Cold Engine,Clutch perfect,Warm Engine,Clutch will Not disengage

GoldenMotor.com

Neinth

New Member
Sep 17, 2010
3
0
0
Home
O/ peoples my name is Neinth,Been searching these forums for a fix to this issue for a while now,great info here btw,has helped very much in some other issues I have been having.

But on to the problem,as title says when engine is cold the clutch engages and disengages fine,near perfect I'd say.When clutch lever is locked back tire rolls with ease,upon cold start droping clutch fires motor up great.

Problem is after the engine has ran for a bit and warmed up,and you shut it down,then try and pedal to start its very very tough,and you can hear the engine turning.I've adjusted the clutch wire so that the clutch lever works without coming anywhere near having to push it down all the way to disengage it when its cold thinking maybe that would fix it,but still once its warm even pushing lever all the way to handlebars the engine still turns.

I can not stress enough that this only happens when the engine is warm,everything seems to work perfect when engine is cold.

On a side note,with clutch disengaged the engine revs up full rpm's with no issue,under load it bogs down,may or may not be connected,but one thing at a time.And theres a bit of clutch squelling like its sliping,but since problem is disengageing I'm not sure what to make of that.

Engine is a 66cc grubee skyhawk gt5,has ran great before,only has about 50 miles so far,but keep running into issues.

Since i know its possible to fix things till their broke heres a list of the issues I have had,and have fixed so far:

1st the chain broke,horribly,multiple times,always on the master link,fix was to replace chain and use a chainbreaker to properly link the chain,more work yes,but also more reliable.

2nd followed recommended oil/gas mixture,terrible time starting,fix was to thin out gas mixture a bit

3rd trash in carb,along with dripping gas,fix was to take apart carb and clean,and adjust float bowl,also I raised the c-clip to second from top

4th throwing chain ALOT,couldnt run for more than a few minutes without throwing it,fix was to redo back sprokect,and spend alot of time truing it up correctly,very important step there i completly overlooked,also while do that I noticed engine was titled on frame,if i can get everything going right I'ma use some locktight on those frame bolts.But aligned engine and tightened bolts.

I suppose I should mention that in persuit of fixing this issue I have re-adjusted the clutch cable many a time,and adjusted the clutch flower nut a few as well.As I stated earlier I have got the clutch operation basically perfected when the engine is cold,plenty of free play in the cable with lever out,clutch disenages at maybe 3/4 pressure on the lever.When first start up,I can lock the lever and bike stays still,after about a minute though you can feel it wanting to go if you allow it,after about five minutes,shut it down and try to start it up your then fighting the engine while your pedaling.

Now just to fix this clutch issue and the engine bogging under load,which I think are connected somehow.So here's what I am thinking,if I take the clutch lever plate off,re-grease the pin and ball in there,possibliy the spring on other side of the clutch plate itself needs replacing?

I'm fully comfortable with any repairs with the exception of ones requireing machining or welding,as I just don't have the tools required for those.I love the engine,and I have riden it from where I live to the city,ten miles there and back,and it has rode great.Very dedicated to getting this engine up and going correctly and any advice on how to fix this,and how to aviod any future issues are appreciated.

Sorry for the long post but tried to put as much info in here as possible,with any luck I can get this resolved,but I am at my wits end to how to fix it,or even the exact cause,and you cant fix something if you dont know why its doing it.Maybe this is normal operating,I'll feel like a fool if it is,but then I still have the issue of the engine bogging down under load.

When I say bogging down I dont mean engine shuts off,it idles great and revs fine with clutch lever down,but when riding and I go to give it gas the sound changes completly,and the engine does not rev up.
 

killercanuck

New Member
Dec 17, 2009
1,748
6
0
47
Wallaceburg ON
You should try loosening your flower nut a couple of notches. It sounds like when the engine is warm the clutch swell is enough to keep it locked on you.

For your motor mounts, double nutting the bolts always helps keep them snug.

As for bogging at WOT(wide open throttle), when it does it try turning the choke on a bit at a time. If it gets worse then you have a rich condition, if it runs better then its lean(adding choke adds more fuel). Then you know what to do with your main jet, either going larger or smaller. It depends on your elevation really.

gl.
 

Neinth

New Member
Sep 17, 2010
3
0
0
Home
Thanx for the fast reply,double nutting sounds like a good idea.Really want to get this going well and replace all the factory bolts and the likes with upgrades.

Once the clutch issue is fixed I'll get right on the fuel issue.Now if I am correct lowering the c-clip should improve this?might be the simpler of the two fixes lol.

If I loosen the flower nut any more than I have,the clutch will not engage at all,suppose if I loosened it and then adjusted the clutch cable,anyways its worth a try,and I will get it done after dinner and get back to you.
 

Neinth

New Member
Sep 17, 2010
3
0
0
Home
Re: Cold Engine,Clutch perfect,Warm Engine,Clutch will Not disengage--Fixed

I can't thank you enough m8,I droped the c-clip down to the bottom notch,no more bogging down,though a bit sluggish at low rpm's,will prolly raise it up one in the morning.Also backed the flower nut off,can run engine for an hour shut it off and still pedal with ease,would have never thought to change that again.Clutch does slip upon started up sometimes,hoping one notch on the flower nut will fix that right up and not cause original issue.Again thank you.

Noticed some oil coming from exhaust,seems it isnt seating right up on the engine due to hitting the frame,going to take it off and bend it out some,should fix that up as well.

All in all a productive night,engines running strong under load,clutch isnt locking up on me,seems now I just have to tweak it out a bit and keep it maintained.

I was looking around at different upgrades for the engine and bike itself,nothing set in stone but any opinions on some of these would be nice.

Lights running off magneto,front headlight and rear tail would be ideal.Thinking the best route would be a battery,magneto to battery,battery to lights.

I want to build a second one of these as a main bike,and use current as a back up for when repairing/maintaining main,is the sprocket adapter from manic mechanic worth it?Also I have read a bit on shift kits that transfer the power to the left side chain,removing the need for the right side chain and sprocket all together,seems like a great idea,and for the main bike even better.

Is an upgraded carb worth it,whats the benifits over a stock?Same with spark plugs,exhaust,even saw a part used to basically increase the cc's of engine.I'm not looking for high speed,just good performance,gas milage,and would love if I could quite it up a bit.I am more of a cruise along type guy,I always leave early to wherever I'm going so no need for speed boosts really,though extar hp to get through intersections would be nice,thats about the only time i really give it high throttle on normal runs.

And a spring action pulley to take slack out of top of chain would be ideal.

If you know of any parts or kits I can look into to please link them for me.

Also just realized i don't know my left from right :>
 
Last edited:

killercanuck

New Member
Dec 17, 2009
1,748
6
0
47
Wallaceburg ON
Hey np man, I know how frustrating all the little bugs can be :p Keep an eye on your plug colour to tell you if you're running rich or lean. You want a nice chocolate colour ideally. Remember, never remove a plug from a hot head, eh.

For your lights, you can use a 6v battery with a rectifier then use the white wire to trickle charge it.
http://motorbicycling.com/f50/electrical-gurus-needed-thoughts-wanted-23374.html

the shaft kit you're thinking of is called a Jack-Shaft:
Sick Bike Parts LLC - Performance parts for your motorized bicycle
Dax has them in stock once in a while too :p

For noise reduction, guys have had luck with extended air filter boxes to reduce the 'pop pop' sound from the carb.
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/remote-airbox-intake-silencing-cheap-10967.html

There's lots of threads on the CNS carb, some ppl swear by them, other just love the 'fine-tunability' over the c-clip. I'd get an SBP Exhaust before another carb. :)

gl.

.trk