Spark plug/electrical problem...

Hi guys,

Ive been having a little problem...

I went out on a ride the other night and mid way through, the engine stopped sparking/igniting. I had to walk the damn thing home. I have a few ideas of what went wrong but I would like some input before I go buying replacement parts.

First off, one of ends of the cables from the kills switch is completely fried off. Its now just a melted end of a cable but still, I wouldnt think that this would stop the bike from igniting, and instead, it would only prevent the kill switch from working. The other one is fine. Am I wrong? Does the kill switch need to be connected perfectly for bike to "spark" (ie. turn on)

Second, my spark plug is basically beaten to ****. Its pretty damn dirty too. In addition, the black plastic cable/thing that comes from the little black box (I know, sorry, don't know what to call it) just barely sits on top of the spark plug. It doesnt screw into the spark plug or click in. It just barely relaxes on top of it. The weird thing is that the bike sparked/ignited fine with it just like that. Do you think that is the problem?

Should I buy a new spark plug? How bout a new kill switch cable? Perhaps something else?

Everything other electrical cable seems to fit in nicely. For example, the black cable from the engine fits nicely into the black cable from the little black box thingy, as does the blue/green cable.

I'm not the most sophisticated bike engine guy, as evidenced by my post, but am I missing something?

EDIT: I am also missing the spark plug boot cdi boot cap. The plastic thing. Is that the problem?

Thanks for your help.

Dave

Thats interesting. So I need to buy this thing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/60cc-80cc-4...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccca0262e&vxp=mtr

and also a cable? That would make sense

PS. I actually did pedal home. was going for dramatic effect

PPS. Thanks

I just looked at your diagram. So the kills switch is needed to spark the engine? My kill switch wire (one of them) shorted and burned up around the same time this problem started. should I just cut of the burned up part and wire the white wire from the engine to the end of it? I don't plan on using it for headlights ever

Great. I found this on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321051873387?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

If that is not the ideal solution, can u link me to another one, preferably on ebay? Thanks a ton. Also, it seems a lot harder to me to splice that wire then cut the white one off because I will have to find two connectors instead of none (ie. I'll use the white one). Am i missing something? I'm not very electrical savy but I recently ordered an ebike kit. lol

One question that I have not got answered...

Do I even need to have my kill switch wired to start the engine? I don't think I do but I haven't received an answer yet.

Thanks again guys

Good idea. I think I will just take off the CDI and bring it, and the spark plug w/ me to an autoparts store. I've never even been to an autoparts store though lol. Do you think anyone will have what I'm looking for? I live in San Diego.

Just for clarification, I will keep my old CDI and the chord coming off of it, but just buy a new boot and plug. Correct? Should I get a new chord as well? This ad

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IMPROVE...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d6589d1a

makes me think that not only are the boots crappy, but so are the chords. I'd like to fix this problem once and for all.

Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.

2door said:

No it doesn't need to be wired in to start the engine but it is a safety device that we strongly advise you use. If the need ever comes when you need to shut down the engine in an emergency you'll be glad you have a kill switch.
Some rely on the choke, and some kill their engine with the clutch. Neither of those methods will help if your throttle sticks open at 25 to 30 MPH.

Tom

Click to expand...

Interesting. I've never considered that my throttle could stick open. From my experience, if I'm going down hill and kill the engine, I speed up massivley. In fact, I will usually turn the engine back on to slow down and a bit and not wear out my brakes.

I'm thinking I go to the auto parts store and get completely new electrical connections for everything, including the kill switch. What is a superior electrical connection alternative to the ****ty one that comes stock with these kits?

I would like to avoid..... (jk, I just wanted to add that in for fun)

2door said:

Leave that stuff on ebay and go to the parts store. That way you can see what you're buying and get some advice from the counter man. You'll be time and money ahead. Plus you'll get what you need to keep your engine running right.

Ask for an NGK spark plug, number B6 HS. If they don't have it ask for a Champion 811 or L82C. If they don't have those ask them to cross reference to another brand.

Tom

Click to expand...

I'm usually pretty lazy about that stuff but now I can't wait to go. I might even go tonight. Will any autoparts store work? Cragen perhaps?

2door said:

The best way to make the connections (splices) is to solder them. You'll need a soldering gun or iron, some paste flux or flux core wire and heat shrink tubing to protect the solder joints and to insulate them from touching. Put the heat shrink tubing on the wires before you solder them.

Tom

Click to expand...

Thanks but I guarantee thats not going to happen. lol. I can cut wires though and attach them to some nice connectors. Thats more in my range. Anything more of that nature?

Update: I went to scooter store and bought nice new spark plug and a cap. They click into each other perfectly. I installed it, and to my dismay, nothing. I then tried w/ the old spark plug and got a few good sparks and it got going. I was surprised. Then I realized what the difference was. When it didnt work I had screwed the spark plug in all the way until it was tight. I loosened the spark plug and voila, I got up and going. However, when I got above 10 mph hour it lost nearly all power and didn't spark right. In fact, there was actually smoke coming off of the engine.

Acting on a hunch, I disconnected the boost bottle and it started working again, but not at full power. I was really surprised that the boost bottle would have such a detrimental effect. I've gotten rid of that damn thing and its working ok. Which brings me to my next point...

I think that ******* at motovelo sold me a used engine and a used kit....for $270 bucks to. I say this for a few reasons. The engine had dents on it the moment I took it out of the box. Not only that, but it wasn't the chrome engine I ordered. It was black. In addition, every individual piece of the kit had scratches and was sort of dirty. The clutch lever had a part (the part that screws into the clutch lever itself) that was so damn pinched I could not remove it. When I tried to access the crank shaft, one of the screws was completely stripped and gouged out. I had to later take it to a machine shop to get it out. I called that jerk and told him I thought the kit was used and he acted confused and said that they all come straight from the factory in china and that it's brand new. I really didn't care that much because I was having fun w/ the kit.

So, I think I'm going to sue him (I'm a lawyer so I can do it on my lunch break and report his business to the attorney general (which he probably won't like because he is illegally selling engines in California) unless he does one of two things, issue me a full refund, or provide me with a brand new kit.

What say you?

PS. thanks for all the advice. you guys rock

Of course not. People can sell a used motor all they want, they just have to state that it's used. The failure to state whether its new or used leads to an implied warranty it's new. The test is reasonableness. Would a reasonable person think they were purchasing a used kit? go to motovelo.us and I think its obvious.