Pull start broke
- Thread starter AaronF
- Start date
Hey Aaron, I bought a pull start about 6 months ago for this 66cc Raw motor on one of my stretched cruisers {have had about 8 MBs, down to two}, It stated the bike "One" time out of about 30 different trys. And that was only when the motor was hot and just pulled over to the curb. I tried the pull start several times again the following days and it would'nt start my bike, although the MB would start instantly with a short pedal. I took that pull start off and tossed it in my parts box. Yes, you can use nylon rope, I hope it starts your bike for you.Got my build finished a couple of days ago.After bout 20-30 pulls on the pull starter the rope flung offCan this be easily replaced with some Nylon or pull rope? If so,do I just take the cover off and rewind the rope? Thank you
They sure are a nice advantage (when properly working) mine would start up cold after 4-5 pulls with full choke.Not sure about other pull starts,when pulling the one on my slant head the darn rope left gashes in my hand even with gloves on! I appreciate your response,maybe someone will have a quality metal starter outHey Aaron, I bought a pull start about 6 months ago for this 66cc Raw motor on one of my stretched cruisers {have had about 8 MBs, down to two}, It stated the bike "One" time out of about 30 different trys. And that was only when the motor was hot and just pulled over to the curb. I tried the pull start several times again the following days and it would'nt start my bike, although the MB would start instantly with a short pedal. I took that pull start off and tossed it in my parts box. Yes, you can use nylon rope, I hope it starts your bike for you.
Mine came with a pullstart and started on the very first pull and still does after 1,000miles and a 1 year. the only problem i had a was a small metal pin wire broke inside the pull start and i took it apart and rebend the metal wire thingy and put it back on and good as new. You have to pull straight up not sideways. Go get a new rope for a lawnmower and it will come with a handle too for like $3-5. It helps if you push the primer button a couple of times and gently twist the throttle a little and pull and it will start right up. Put choke on when cold or first time strarting it,after its warm you can leave choke off when starting.
Somebody has got to build a better pull start for these things! I have changed my chord three times now, not too mention replace the spring in it with one out of an old weed whacker, and two more times re-wrapping it.
Once that plastic catcher thing.....you know the thing that slides out to catch the spinner on the crank. That thing broke in three pieces. I made another one using two very large washers stuck together to maintain the thickness of the plastic piece.
I used some metal pins out of an old chainsaw for the pin-type things on the plastic one and they worked real good.
I then cut it to the original shape of the plastic one and that thing will last longer than that pull start!
Until someone offers a better pull start, I guess we are all stuck with these unreliable ones, but I got to have one! Maybe the best thing to do is to buy a bunch of them and just keep 'em on hand.
Once that plastic catcher thing.....you know the thing that slides out to catch the spinner on the crank. That thing broke in three pieces. I made another one using two very large washers stuck together to maintain the thickness of the plastic piece.
I used some metal pins out of an old chainsaw for the pin-type things on the plastic one and they worked real good.
I then cut it to the original shape of the plastic one and that thing will last longer than that pull start!
Until someone offers a better pull start, I guess we are all stuck with these unreliable ones, but I got to have one! Maybe the best thing to do is to buy a bunch of them and just keep 'em on hand.
I just wanted to thank ya'll for the feedback regarding the pull start!
I had mulled o'er gettin' one for my schwinn as I ride it in the winter and tryin' to pedal start in a snow covered, icy parking lot tends to be quite interesting lol but after readin' alla this - I guess I'll just deal
TBH I've always hated recoil starters anyway - the real reason for my procrastination
I had mulled o'er gettin' one for my schwinn as I ride it in the winter and tryin' to pedal start in a snow covered, icy parking lot tends to be quite interesting lol but after readin' alla this - I guess I'll just deal
TBH I've always hated recoil starters anyway - the real reason for my procrastination
I agree it sure would be nice if someone came out with a quality pull start!If it is the rope,I'll replace it with some Nylon or similar.Sorry to ask but I've never changed a pull start or even looked at this starter (yet) would this be an easy fix replacing the rope or? I'd appreciate any help before I go pull the cover off Thanks for your replies!
Thanks for your replies!
When that happened to me the first time, I felt pretty much the same way.
First off, make sure the coil is not all wrapped up within itself, but free of itself. ( I know, terrible description, but I think you know what I mean)
Second, you'll see the end with the hair pin bent end on it. The plastic wheel thing has got a slot on the outside of it and that bent end hugs the LEFT one.
So looking down at the plastic wheel, that slot looks sort of like this: ----_____----
The LEFT one is the one you want. Stick that end over the plastic end, keep a finger on it, and press that coil around the wheel. It's kind of tricky until you get used to it, but go slow, continue to keep that coil pressed down as you insert it back in. If you let go of it at any time, or if your pressing technique slips, you'll be starting over, because that spring will go "Boing", again.
You'll continue to wind it back in, within itself until you get to the end. Once it is nestled inside the wheel, your done but still be careful of it.
Once that is done, you'll have to eye up that pin on the case to the position of the loop in the coil. At this point, you wind your rope up on the wheel (Counter-clockwise, I'm pretty sure), and you carefully drop the wheel into place. Here you should test it to make sure it works right and spins with the tension in the right direction.
Before I go on here, if you need to replace the rope, it's best to do that before you wind the coil. As you will see, the knot for that rope is in a cavity that is situated under where the coil is going to be. When replacing the rope, push it through that hole, tie the knot, and get that knot crammed in there as much as possible.....what ever is exposed above the level of that cavity, the coil will "grind" off over time.
Once everything is in place, you will need needle nose pliers or something like them to grab the end of that rope-end to slide it through the rope guide.
You may want to give that wheel a few turns to put some tension on it, which will add to the return from a pull.
Getting the rope end through that hole (the rope guide) is a little tricky with the tension, because it will want to pull it back, but you will get it. Winding the spring is the hard part, if your not used to it!
Hope this helps.
First off, make sure the coil is not all wrapped up within itself, but free of itself. ( I know, terrible description, but I think you know what I mean)
Second, you'll see the end with the hair pin bent end on it. The plastic wheel thing has got a slot on the outside of it and that bent end hugs the LEFT one.
So looking down at the plastic wheel, that slot looks sort of like this: ----_____----
The LEFT one is the one you want. Stick that end over the plastic end, keep a finger on it, and press that coil around the wheel. It's kind of tricky until you get used to it, but go slow, continue to keep that coil pressed down as you insert it back in. If you let go of it at any time, or if your pressing technique slips, you'll be starting over, because that spring will go "Boing", again.
You'll continue to wind it back in, within itself until you get to the end. Once it is nestled inside the wheel, your done but still be careful of it.
Once that is done, you'll have to eye up that pin on the case to the position of the loop in the coil. At this point, you wind your rope up on the wheel (Counter-clockwise, I'm pretty sure), and you carefully drop the wheel into place. Here you should test it to make sure it works right and spins with the tension in the right direction.
Before I go on here, if you need to replace the rope, it's best to do that before you wind the coil. As you will see, the knot for that rope is in a cavity that is situated under where the coil is going to be. When replacing the rope, push it through that hole, tie the knot, and get that knot crammed in there as much as possible.....what ever is exposed above the level of that cavity, the coil will "grind" off over time.
Once everything is in place, you will need needle nose pliers or something like them to grab the end of that rope-end to slide it through the rope guide.
You may want to give that wheel a few turns to put some tension on it, which will add to the return from a pull.
Getting the rope end through that hole (the rope guide) is a little tricky with the tension, because it will want to pull it back, but you will get it. Winding the spring is the hard part, if your not used to it!
Hope this helps.
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Yep ,yep yep yep, These are alot of fun
First of all ,do not remove the main machine screw that fastens your reel to the casing!
You do not have to if all u are doing is replacing a broken rope!!!
All u have to do is wind up the reel and then place a set of needle nose vise grips with light tension not hard enough to crush the plastic, but just enough so it will stay on its own and keep the reel from unwinding.
Now u are ready to install the the new rope. Remove the old one from the opening IN THE REEL by grabbing the knot with a regular pair of small needle nose pliers. This is the knot that is keeping the back end of the rope to the reel
Now pull out the old rope.
Before you install the new rope, make sure it's extra long and the same diameter.
#1 Tie a knot in the new rope.
#2 Thread the new rope through the opening in the reel and then keep threading it to and through the hole in the casing, and then like you are sowing, keep pulling the rope untill the knot at the back end of the rope gets to and into the reel opening and the rope stops.
#3 Now release the vise grips from the casing and the SPRING WILL START TO UNWIND WHILE AT THE SAME TIME THE REEL WILL AUTOMATICALLY WIND UP THE ROPE
#4 Now what u should have there, is your starter sitting there with the new rope all wound up in the reel , with a lengh of rope still hanging out.
Now all you have to do is thread the front end of the rope that's hanging out ,-through the handle and then pull the rope untill u feel the spring winding up-that should happen instantly - pull the rope about 6 inches and then clamp it with small vise grips right at the hole in the casing to prevent the rope from getting lost in the reel in case it slips out of your hands while your tieing the knot for your handle.
now cut your new rope to length for your handle , tie a knot for your handle and release the vise grips.
the handle and your new rope will pull up tight against the starter and now you are all ready to bolt your starter back to the motor.
I have alot of experience in this since I had to repair a broken recoil spring and then replace it with a new stronger one later because I wanted a better reciol spring-bought one for a sthill chain saw and put it in my bridgestone titan.
P.S. The"metal coil" is called a recoil spring. This is the propper way to do this now I have to go and shovel snow......:-/
First of all ,do not remove the main machine screw that fastens your reel to the casing!
You do not have to if all u are doing is replacing a broken rope!!!
All u have to do is wind up the reel and then place a set of needle nose vise grips with light tension not hard enough to crush the plastic, but just enough so it will stay on its own and keep the reel from unwinding.
Now u are ready to install the the new rope. Remove the old one from the opening IN THE REEL by grabbing the knot with a regular pair of small needle nose pliers. This is the knot that is keeping the back end of the rope to the reel
Now pull out the old rope.
Before you install the new rope, make sure it's extra long and the same diameter.
#1 Tie a knot in the new rope.
#2 Thread the new rope through the opening in the reel and then keep threading it to and through the hole in the casing, and then like you are sowing, keep pulling the rope untill the knot at the back end of the rope gets to and into the reel opening and the rope stops.
#3 Now release the vise grips from the casing and the SPRING WILL START TO UNWIND WHILE AT THE SAME TIME THE REEL WILL AUTOMATICALLY WIND UP THE ROPE
#4 Now what u should have there, is your starter sitting there with the new rope all wound up in the reel , with a lengh of rope still hanging out.
Now all you have to do is thread the front end of the rope that's hanging out ,-through the handle and then pull the rope untill u feel the spring winding up-that should happen instantly - pull the rope about 6 inches and then clamp it with small vise grips right at the hole in the casing to prevent the rope from getting lost in the reel in case it slips out of your hands while your tieing the knot for your handle.
now cut your new rope to length for your handle , tie a knot for your handle and release the vise grips.
the handle and your new rope will pull up tight against the starter and now you are all ready to bolt your starter back to the motor.
I have alot of experience in this since I had to repair a broken recoil spring and then replace it with a new stronger one later because I wanted a better reciol spring-bought one for a sthill chain saw and put it in my bridgestone titan.
P.S. The"metal coil" is called a recoil spring. This is the propper way to do this now I have to go and shovel snow.
.....:-/
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Read somewhere waxing the rope before using helps prevent rope breaking.
My first one lasted 3 pulls. Waxed replacement working fine.
My first one lasted 3 pulls. Waxed replacement working fine.
hmm... I see yer logic but yer neglecting my dumbass factor, I actually kinda like ridin' in adverse weather conditions - the worse the better?
Actually they are pretty simple to work on-just don't ever pull them all the way to the end,becauseI just wanted to thank ya'll for the feedback regarding the pull start!
I had mulled o'er gettin' one for my schwinn as I ride it in the winter and tryin' to pedal start in a snow covered, icy parking lot tends to be quite interesting lol but after readin' alla this - I guess I'll just deal
TBH I've always hated recoil starters anyway - the real reason for my procrastination
can break the recoil spring or the rope!!!
If this ever happens to you, I'm sure that u will figure it out pretty quick, and repair it-just make sure that you have needle nose vise grips and needle nose pliers.
You can also have spare complete starters on stand-by so u can bolt one on while working on the other one
That's a good idea, maybe next time I have to fix mine I'll do that!
One thing that is good to do is replace that plastic rope guide with something else. It can pop out on a pull and that will shred strands off that rope in a hurry. I replaced mine with a rope slide off an old weed whacker and has never let me down yet.
