Custom Billet Head... I haven't seen this one
- Thread starter mapbike
- Start date
how about this head?? any goood????
anyone feel free to chime in
http://www.gasbike.net/Racing-CNC-Cylinder-Head.html
anyone feel free to chime in
http://www.gasbike.net/Racing-CNC-Cylinder-Head.html
Stolen copy of Fred's Head. Bad copy lol. Now a real American Made Fred Head!! Differant story...
If I were gonna buy one of the two I would pay the extra $10 and get the "Fred Head"
I dont honestly think one will out perform the other but, If I were gonna buy the head alone I'd get it from Fred, he designed it and brought it to market for us and I think we should support him for his efforts and contribution to this great hobby.
Map
The adventure is what makes it a great hobby....!This is not a great hobby...........it's an adventure!
Would you not agree with that scotto?
I run a Fred Head on one bike, I run Puch heads on a couple others that actually perform just as well as the Fred Head and I have a Jake 'Diamond Head" that I have yet to use which looks to have a similar combustion chamber as the Fred Head.
Personally, I like all of them, I like supporting "Local People" when I can but I still have to be honest and say that the 70cc Hi Hi Puch head is the best bang for the buck for probably 99% of people running a stock to modified China Girl, all I have to speak from is my personal experience and I got my personal fastest top speed running a Dax lower and a Puch 70cc Hi Hi Head ran like a scalded dog up to 50.3 MPH so I'd say the Puch heads perform pretty good even up to speeds most will never see with a china girl build and it pulled as good as my other build that is using the Fred Head which tops out on the flat @ 43-44 MPH.
I like all of them and I think people should use what they can afford and what they like the looks of the best, some don't like the look of the Puch Heads so that is a good reason to get one of the others.
Fred has contributed to our Hobby and others have also and I like to support these guys as long as they conduct business in a respectful and ethical way, some have and some haven't and thats all I will say about that.
I say run what you want and what you like, it's all good and it's your bike and your engine, so rig it up and dress it up however makes you happy, thats all that matters.
It's all about fun and as scotto said, its an "adventure", some times a good one and some times a pain in the back side but its all part of the fun if you look at it that way and just keep tinkering till ya get it right.
Peace, map
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yeah youre right. Id rather support the original engineer too.. now i just gotta dig up where to find the original from this Fred guy. thanks mapbike, youre way cooler than gpsbike
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Extra?
The 6 cc Fred head is only $45 now which is cheaper than the $59 gasbike head.
http://www.shop.crmachine.com/product.sc?productId=48&categoryId=15
Wow!!!!
Thanks Neil I didn't know that....
No doubt that is the best bargain.....
Fred should sell a ton of them at that price, I'd use it over the Puch Head at $45 for sure.
Map
you'll like it, looks good and performs good also, better torque and will allow engine to cool better, nothing but +++
And onsidering the new lower cost, id say no doubt its the best bang for the buck if someone wants an aftermarket head.
Definitely looking forward to it. Hoping for a little higher rpms out of it with the higher compression too! Need to find some 93 octane around my area preferably without ethanol. Been using 91 without ethanol.
I'm also running the 6cc Fred and can only say good things about it as well, always runs nice and cool, even after a hard run I'm still plenty well in the safe zone with cylinder head temp.
Just set the squish clearance to 0.5mm to 1mm by stacking different thickness head or base gaskets and that'll give you a bit more power and protection from detonation. I use the .016" and the .025" thick copper gaskets sold at Juice Moter Sports' site to obtain the best squish clearance. Anything below 1mm is considered good and can go as tight as 0.25mm but that's really cutting it close, mine is set at 0.75mm and runs great. Lots of top end power with nice torque all the way thru the rpm range. I just use the solder thru the spark plug hole and measure the squished solder with a dial caliper with the gaskets installed and head torqued until I get it in the acceptable range. You may need to mill off about 1mm from the top of some jugs to get the squish into the range and I did mine by chucking the jug into my lathe, ensuring it was centered with a dial indicator until the runout was under .001" before any cutting was done, but you can also shave it down with the sandpaper over glass method if you don't have access to a mill or lathe, just takes a *little* longer.
Either way, you'll really like the new found performance.
Just set the squish clearance to 0.5mm to 1mm by stacking different thickness head or base gaskets and that'll give you a bit more power and protection from detonation. I use the .016" and the .025" thick copper gaskets sold at Juice Moter Sports' site to obtain the best squish clearance. Anything below 1mm is considered good and can go as tight as 0.25mm but that's really cutting it close, mine is set at 0.75mm and runs great. Lots of top end power with nice torque all the way thru the rpm range. I just use the solder thru the spark plug hole and measure the squished solder with a dial caliper with the gaskets installed and head torqued until I get it in the acceptable range. You may need to mill off about 1mm from the top of some jugs to get the squish into the range and I did mine by chucking the jug into my lathe, ensuring it was centered with a dial indicator until the runout was under .001" before any cutting was done, but you can also shave it down with the sandpaper over glass method if you don't have access to a mill or lathe, just takes a *little* longer.
Either way, you'll really like the new found performance.
I agree there... that's what helps keep the quality up, the price down, and motivates people to continuously improve the parts they sell.
Yep you hit the nail right on the head Dave and Theon
If you don't like the competition you gotta best them and stay a head of the curve, I know many get really upset at the copied parts and designs, I understand the feeling but at the same time most of these same people have all sorts of tools in there shop that are copied designs of the originals and they buy the harbor freight version because they don't have a Snap-On budget to work with.
We all do what we can with what we have the funds to do with, no one is purposely trying to hurt anyone when they buy a re-pro part or tool and the way I see it there is no reason to be hating on people when they get what they can afford and what they want from whomever they choose.
I always try to support local whenever I can, but I do what I think is best for my own bottom line as well, just like everyone else.
Live and let live and just do the best we can with what we can afford and support the respectful service oriented ethical vendors when we can and let all the other chips fall as they will.
Peace, Map
I have been around racing my whole life & forgot the egos that go along
with it.I have a lot of fun listening to threads as this.I only feel sorry for
the poor new guy only wanting the straight info.
You will never see me jump in on topics as this.It's a no win, no matter.
But I do run a Fred head with a little modification for squish.
Have fun fellows "ole" Fly
with it.I have a lot of fun listening to threads as this.I only feel sorry for
the poor new guy only wanting the straight info.
You will never see me jump in on topics as this.It's a no win, no matter.
But I do run a Fred head with a little modification for squish.
Have fun fellows "ole" Fly
