How fast is your Schwinn OCC
- Thread starter trson
- Start date
If everything is working right I would think you should be able to hit 30mph easy, unless of course you weigh in at 500 or so lbs. I dont see why you cant get any speed.
With the 20 inch tires you will probably need more like a 36 tooth sprocket to get above 20 m.p.h.
John
John
the problem is your small wheels. you dont want to use a 44t with anything smaller than 26" wheels.with my 26" wheels and 44t im getting 32mph. Youre only going to get 15-18mph. you need to get a smaller sprocket to make up for the smaller wheel.to get the same speed with your 20's you would need a 27T sprocket.but you could use a 32,34,36 to get 20mph or so.
the larger wheels travel more distance in less time and are more faster
the smaller wheels have to spin more times to travel the same distance and are slower
the larger wheels travel more distance in less time and are more faster
the smaller wheels have to spin more times to travel the same distance and are slower
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Since I am living in high altitude in Denver, I believe that my engine is running weak because of thin air. Right now I have an controllable air tube attaching to the opening on the intake where the boost bottle tube is supposed to be. The engine now runs better (a little more power with more mpg) but it is harder to start and not able to idle at all when the clutch is pulled.
Yeah with that controllable air tube, it's just running leaner, and that's not healthy.
You need a 27T sprocket or you will just be revving it to the moon and getting no speed with 20" wheels.
You need a 27T sprocket or you will just be revving it to the moon and getting no speed with 20" wheels.
I just put a 36t on and the cars started to speed up to pass me one got pulled over doing 60km in a 50km zone. the cop told me I was doing 45km I was at 3/4 throttle
I am having my carburetor positioned parallel to the ground. I have seen some bikes with their outtakes pointing downward to the ground and their carb pointing upward. Does the positioning of the carb in such ways affect the engine to be more lean or more rich? The first time I got my engine I was getting 40mpg. Then I started to file down the bottom edge of the carb barrel on the filter side, and I got around 60mpg - with my needle at the second position from top. Now I give it more air in the intake, and I am getting 100-130 mpg, but with no idle. This is probably not safe for the engine.
7000 miles on my Direct hit ran summer and winter. It gave me more power than stock did. I run about a 30 thousands plug gap. Please define crazy?
My NGK gives lower pitch than my NGK + Directhit. There are more higher pitch and more irregular, louder and faster beating noises with the Directhit even though there is not a lot of speed increase - as how I felt it. I believe that at WOT, the speeds of both setup are about equal. The irregular noises and jerky movement of the bike with Directhit at starting made me fear that there might me something wrong inside the engine. The jerky starting may be a normal thing of high power increase. The nonimprovement at WOT tells me the limit of the engine. The engine is est. at 600 miles.
At the end of winter (40-50 F), the plug on Directhit was totally black. Then at 60-70 F, after two runs on Directhit and after two runs without Directhit, the plug is now mostly black with a little gray, as #7 on here (Versionate - Document sharing & collaboration, the easy way for groups to share document and files.) - cold or rich, but OK.
