34mm/1.338" hub sprocket adapter?

GoldenMotor.com

dtv5403

New Member
May 4, 2015
322
1
0
USA
I know that one of the vendors that makes the hub adapters also sells shims for them. I'm sorry I don't remember which one. If you have the tools and know-how, you could make your own if you liked. However, I have never seen the shims used or heard how good they work, so I'm just throwing it out there as a suggestion. Might be a good idea, might not.
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
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San Antonio Texas
You could use some 1.5" aluminum pipe with a .080" wall thickness to make a shim if you can't find an adapter in that size, just cut to the width of the adapter and then cut in half. You can use some jb weld to permanently bond the shim to the adapter when you mount it to the hub, just use a thin coat on the shim, torque it down then wipe away the squeeze out, then after the jb sets up, the adapter can be removed with the shims permanently in place...

Option B would be to buy a 1.25" adapter and have it machined to the size you need but this could become quite pricy...
 

Tony01

Well-Known Member
Nov 28, 2012
1,744
1,751
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sf bay area
Yeah I'm looking for the cheapest possible solution. Is it a bad idea to drill into the aluminum hub flanges, maybe 3/8" below the spoke bcd? That would work, Dave. 1.520" adapter, al pipe, and a .01" thick aluminum sheet as spacer. The whole assembly would cost me close to $80 plus drilling the holes in my sprocket.

I'm also thinking of getting a disc brake adapter for the FW threads, drilling the 6 bolt holes into the sprocket and hub. Is that a bad idea?

If it is a bad idea... No biggie I could continue using my current setup. The hub is a 48h I would like to lace into a sun rhyno lite rim, but the rag joint BCD is too small, and will not go into 48 spokes unless I'm only using three bolts.
 

knightscape

Member
Jul 29, 2013
340
1
16
Maine
Drilling into your flanges might work for a while, but most pedal hub flanges would not be up to the stresses of having a driven gear attached to them that way. I would suggest that though it may be the cheapest short term "fix", it would likely end up costing more in the long run after the hub eventually fails. If you lose a chunk of your hub flange, that could result in a pretty dangerous situation at speed. If you're thinking about doing the work to relace a hub in, you could get a 36h KT Histop coaster hub for probably less than $20, that would take a rag joint or easy sprocket adaptor, with out any reengineering.