I had a similar problem. I re-tightened the cable several times. I had to nudge the lever over with a big screwdriver and block it into place while I tightened the cable. The clutch is very stiff. It has two big springs between the cable end and the lever, one inside the other to keep the cable centered. The combined compressive force of the two springs is very strong. The cable stretched out a couple of times before I got it to finally settle in. It's a wonder that the cinch holds. So far, since I adjusted it in far enough it's performed well. I have a hundred miles on it now.
I'm Almost Finished. Someone PLZZ Help
- Thread starter Yankee2006
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...and just as a FYI, those springs are unnecessary and can be removed - there's more than enough return force to not have any extra springs.
Actually, the larger of the two springs isn't even for that - it's supposed to wrap around the cable's plastic housing before the cable end (no tension at all) to serve as a heat shield by keeping the plastic housing out of the cooling fins of the engine, like this;
...all of mine other than that one are in a box somewhere
Actually, the larger of the two springs isn't even for that - it's supposed to wrap around the cable's plastic housing before the cable end (no tension at all) to serve as a heat shield by keeping the plastic housing out of the cooling fins of the engine, like this;
...all of mine other than that one are in a box somewhere
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Well, that makes sense. I didn't catch it in the instructions if it even showed it. There were some er, discrepancies in the manual. Thanks for pointing it out....and just as a FYI, those springs are unnecessary and can be removed - there's more than enough return force to not have any extra springs.
Actually, the larger of the two springs isn't even for that - it's supposed to wrap around the cable's plastic housing before the cable end (no tension at all) to serve as a heat shield by keeping the plastic housing out of the cooling fins of the engine, like this;
...all of mine other than that one are in a box somewhere
Fred
NP lol, that's what we're here for
TBH the spring does a lousy job even just for that (keepin' the cable away frm the engine) and it's questionable as to if it's even needed... a better tactic would be to route it so it's not touching at all, assisted by bairdco's ossum brake noodle suggestion: http://motorbicycling.com/f6/brake-noodles-clutch-throttle-clearance-problems-13710.html which also seems to help reduce friction.
Don't mind that his engine seems to be on backwards, he knows - he even did it on purpose lol
TBH the spring does a lousy job even just for that (keepin' the cable away frm the engine) and it's questionable as to if it's even needed... a better tactic would be to route it so it's not touching at all, assisted by bairdco's ossum brake noodle suggestion: http://motorbicycling.com/f6/brake-noodles-clutch-throttle-clearance-problems-13710.html which also seems to help reduce friction.
Don't mind that his engine seems to be on backwards, he knows - he even did it on purpose lol
That looks very cool. I went to rearrange the cable and found several strands severed at the bend. It's ugly. Fortunately there is sufficient excess to cut off and reroute. I'll be looking for the noodle. That looks neat. I'll use teflon oil to lube it. I got some pretty good stuff that stays put and is very slick.NP lol, that's what we're here for
TBH the spring does a lousy job even just for that (keepin' the cable away frm the engine) and it's questionable as to if it's even needed... a better tactic would be to route it so it's not touching at all, assisted by bairdco's ossum brake noodle suggestion: http://motorbicycling.com/f6/brake-noodles-clutch-throttle-clearance-problems-13710.html which also seems to help reduce friction.
Don't mind that his engine seems to be on backwards, he knows - he even did it on purpose lol
Thx for the tip.
Fred
