OK so I dont know what I did but I got the chain back on WITH that spring tensioner I had made. The tensioner I moved forward which seems to have made the chain a bit tighter but the spring will take care of any issues (I hope). The bike is still jamming up somewhere when trying to start it but this time I managed to make it hold and got a few pictures. Some of the things I can see are:
Picture 1-In the 1st picture the chain seems to be rubbing against the screw eating away at some of the weld. But it's just that -> RUBBING. I can't see that causing a jam as the chain would just grind away at the screw head.
Picture 2-The metal bar when trying to start up would hit the frame. The red circle shows where it was hitting before the chain broke and the blue circle is where it is hitting now after getting the chain back on and moving the tensioner assembly forward. So a common factor here is the bar is hitting the frame regardless of where I put the tensioner
Picture 3- This shows it in the locked up/jammed position. I bet that if I was able to coordinate the lockup with applying the brakes with perfect timing I would have been able to get a picture of the metal bar holding in the position where the bar touches there frame but I wanst gonna mess around trying to get the perfect picture of it. The only way to unlock this is to roll the bike in reverse.
Picture 4-This shows the assembly in parked/idle position as it is sitting right now ready for the next time I try to start it up.
From the picture on the red bike (which is what I sent to the metal fab shop for a price quote) which is from the 2nd last post in the link from post 15 in this thread the 3 holes on his tensioner seem to be closer to the spring hole than compared to mine.
I wonder if the horizontal bar on mine is just a bit too long?? Wondering if I were to cut a bit off it and drill a new hole and move the roller wheel back after about a 1/2in to an inch if that might clear the hitting problem. Does anyone have any input on on the idea of cutting maybe an inch off the horizontal bar and moving the wheel back an inch or so?
Picture 1-In the 1st picture the chain seems to be rubbing against the screw eating away at some of the weld. But it's just that -> RUBBING. I can't see that causing a jam as the chain would just grind away at the screw head.
Picture 2-The metal bar when trying to start up would hit the frame. The red circle shows where it was hitting before the chain broke and the blue circle is where it is hitting now after getting the chain back on and moving the tensioner assembly forward. So a common factor here is the bar is hitting the frame regardless of where I put the tensioner
Picture 3- This shows it in the locked up/jammed position. I bet that if I was able to coordinate the lockup with applying the brakes with perfect timing I would have been able to get a picture of the metal bar holding in the position where the bar touches there frame but I wanst gonna mess around trying to get the perfect picture of it. The only way to unlock this is to roll the bike in reverse.
Picture 4-This shows the assembly in parked/idle position as it is sitting right now ready for the next time I try to start it up.
From the picture on the red bike (which is what I sent to the metal fab shop for a price quote) which is from the 2nd last post in the link from post 15 in this thread the 3 holes on his tensioner seem to be closer to the spring hole than compared to mine.
I wonder if the horizontal bar on mine is just a bit too long?? Wondering if I were to cut a bit off it and drill a new hole and move the roller wheel back after about a 1/2in to an inch if that might clear the hitting problem. Does anyone have any input on on the idea of cutting maybe an inch off the horizontal bar and moving the wheel back an inch or so?
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