atombikes' 2007 Whizzer NE5
- Thread starter atombikes
- Start date
I got the Whizzer started today (finally). The idle seems high, and the carb is a little fuel starved. I got it up to 30mph on the flats.
Here are two videos of this lovely flathead engine running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fghCBOChU0E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyLEzfd32-w
Here are two videos of this lovely flathead engine running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fghCBOChU0E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyLEzfd32-w
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Thanks but I just bought this one. If you are doing a public service, you might want to start a new thread rather than bury this info on this thread.
OK, so I had a little free time so I took the side cover off to expose the cam, and subsequently the lifters.
From the look of the cam position, I *think* the cam has already been advanced one tooth. Anyone disagree or have comments?
The cam stayed in the engine when I took the side cover off. I got lucky I think.
Anyway, on to the lifters. Bummer, they're not mushroom lifters. Good news is I don't think there is any damage to the cam (or the lifters from what I can tell)...
This is pretty much the best pic I can get of the cam lobe, but it seems smooth to the touch:
From the look of the cam position, I *think* the cam has already been advanced one tooth. Anyone disagree or have comments?
The cam stayed in the engine when I took the side cover off. I got lucky I think.
Anyway, on to the lifters. Bummer, they're not mushroom lifters. Good news is I don't think there is any damage to the cam (or the lifters from what I can tell)...
This is pretty much the best pic I can get of the cam lobe, but it seems smooth to the touch:
Yes, the cam timing is off by 1 tooth.
The lobe wear looks normal to me. So long as there is no pitting or galling to indicate that the hard facing has been compromised it should be good to go. The most wear would show on the flank (leading face) or heel (trailing face) of the lobe ramps where the load applied to it is greatest.
The lobe wear looks normal to me. So long as there is no pitting or galling to indicate that the hard facing has been compromised it should be good to go. The most wear would show on the flank (leading face) or heel (trailing face) of the lobe ramps where the load applied to it is greatest.
Thanks, Silverbear. My heart sunk a little when I read the title of the thread that said you were in the hospital...I quickly read thru all the postings to get up to speed on how you were doing.
Glad to see you back at it!
Intake restrictor plate
Regarding the carb restrictor plate which I have read you must open up; here are pics of mine. Frankly, it seems about as large as the mouth on the carb so I'm not sure opening it up would do much??? I assume I am looking at the restrictor plate.
Regarding the carb restrictor plate which I have read you must open up; here are pics of mine. Frankly, it seems about as large as the mouth on the carb so I'm not sure opening it up would do much??? I assume I am looking at the restrictor plate.
Small update. I decided I wanted to get rid of the wide Whizzer handlebars and tall stem. My opinion, they make the bike look dorky.
So, the quill Whizzer uses is 21.1mm (typically old american bike/BMX size). NOT the more typical 22.2mm size. It's a little confusing because the Whizzer quill actually has a machined step in it that reduces down to 21.1, and this step limits how far you can insert the quill. Anyway, I ended up buying a "Black Ops" 21.1mm quill that has a 4 bolt cap. It's chromed and stocky looking, so I think it fits the style I'm after.
Bad news, this quill uses a 7/8" handlebar (not typical 25.4/1"), so I had to look for cruiser handlebars that use this smaller clamp area size. I found a place called Cross Lake Sales that had a set of handlebars for $7 or so (sold out now)...
Here's the result. It lowers the bars, and they're MUCH narrower (which is good because I can now walk the bike thru a doorway- not possible with the wide Whizzer bars).
Also, I added a layback seatpost from forum member inked1974 (Chad). Awesome American made quality at an excellent price!
Finally, I pulled the turn signals off. They are kinda poor quality, and I noticed that the left rear was cracked and had been repaired by the previous owner. I'm thinking I will try to build my own set of turn signal lights that are lower profile. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.
Now my next question- how do I shorten these Whizzer cables??? It seems like they're all custom terminated; not like regular bicycle cables at all. How do you guys do it?
So, the quill Whizzer uses is 21.1mm (typically old american bike/BMX size). NOT the more typical 22.2mm size. It's a little confusing because the Whizzer quill actually has a machined step in it that reduces down to 21.1, and this step limits how far you can insert the quill. Anyway, I ended up buying a "Black Ops" 21.1mm quill that has a 4 bolt cap. It's chromed and stocky looking, so I think it fits the style I'm after.
Bad news, this quill uses a 7/8" handlebar (not typical 25.4/1"), so I had to look for cruiser handlebars that use this smaller clamp area size. I found a place called Cross Lake Sales that had a set of handlebars for $7 or so (sold out now)...
Here's the result. It lowers the bars, and they're MUCH narrower (which is good because I can now walk the bike thru a doorway- not possible with the wide Whizzer bars).
Also, I added a layback seatpost from forum member inked1974 (Chad). Awesome American made quality at an excellent price!
Finally, I pulled the turn signals off. They are kinda poor quality, and I noticed that the left rear was cracked and had been repaired by the previous owner. I'm thinking I will try to build my own set of turn signal lights that are lower profile. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.
Now my next question- how do I shorten these Whizzer cables??? It seems like they're all custom terminated; not like regular bicycle cables at all. How do you guys do it?
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I'm lov'g those bars! Great choice. The 4 bolt cap is very similar to my PUCH Allstate 250. You got some nice junk going on there.
Happy Trails....
Happy Trails....
Attachments
Lukeen' good!Thanks for the comments.
Now I just need to get the cabling under control. I found that the wiring can be coaxed into place behind the cover on the face of the fork; but the control cables (specifically the rear brake and the compression release) are going to have to be shortened. Shouldn't be an issue for the rear brake, but the compression release cable has a custom "S" shaped bracket on the end of it, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it?
Now I just need to get the cabling under control. I found that the wiring can be coaxed into place behind the cover on the face of the fork; but the control cables (specifically the rear brake and the compression release) are going to have to be shortened. Shouldn't be an issue for the rear brake, but the compression release cable has a custom "S" shaped bracket on the end of it, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it?
