Started putting my newest build together today....

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mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
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Central Area of Texas
That thing is coming along nicely!
Thank you Motojoe, yeah slowly but surely its coming together.

Ill be glad to get this one running down the road, I think this is gonna be a really nice ride when I get it done, Im just hopint the engine pans out the way I want it to.

Im still thinking on gas tank, rear rack, Headlight, exhaust for it.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Hey! Those tires look orange now.

Did they ripen over the winter?
all depends on the lighting and someone else's computer monitor I guess....lol

nah... still red.... :)~{θ>)

I think sometimes about just putting a good set of black tires on that bike, but it wont be nearly as fun that way, and the name "Taffy" just wouldn't wouldn't fit's well as it does now with the Red/Pink/Orange tires.

Im thinking she kinda likes the Red shoes so Im gonna let her keep-em..lol
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
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Central Area of Texas
That looks GREAT! Map. oh ...very entertaining thread by the way.
Thanks Allen, I have a few more pics I need to post here, but just havent taken the time to get it done, started messing with exhaust to see how I wont to do it on this bike, got a front mount for the engines fixed up from some things I had laying around that worked out perfectly, planning on making an inframe tank for this bike, I have a tpatter cut out so now I just need to find time to work on it.

so many things projects and so little time.... fixing to build a porch onto my workshop so that will take a couple weeks off and on for me to get it done since Ill likely do most all the work myself on my days off from work.

Map
 

allen standley

Well-Known Member
Oct 22, 2011
1,126
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Bangor, Maine
Completely understand time management. I got some drywalling and front walkway work. I'll work on bikes til I can't stand it any more all the while knowing I must do seasonal work in its correct season.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Completely understand time management. I got some drywalling and front walkway work. I'll work on bikes til I can't stand it any more all the while knowing I must do seasonal work in its correct season.
Yep and the season is here down south for all the honey doo's and outside work, we've already seen 90F here but, not our consistant temps yet but 70s and 80s are gonna be regular for a couple months no2 until we start hitting 90s and 100 almost everyday.
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
6
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Central Illinois
" until we start hitting 90s and 100 almost everyday" --mapbike

I'm awfully sorry for you.

That would kill me. I just know it would because Illinois summers very nearly do me in.

(But don't mind me. I'm almost never satisfied with the weather anyway. But I do better in the winter than in the summer and that's a fact.)
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
" until we start hitting 90s and 100 almost everyday" --mapbike

I'm awfully sorry for you.

That would kill me. I just know it would because Illinois summers very nearly do me in.

(But don't mind me. I'm almost never satisfied with the weather anyway. But I do better in the winter than in the summer and that's a fact.)
yep we have summers that put us in triple digits for around 3 months straight every single day sometimes, typically though its 90s to 102-104 in the shade July-September and then toward the end of October its starts cooling down some but some years it still in the 80s on Thanksgiving.

Our biggest issue here is it can be upper 70s one day and the teens or 20s that nigh5 sometimes on the year in pre spring time or what should be winter, thats sure hard to get acclimated too, but Im happy with 80s and 90s, I dont look forward to the humid 100s those days are a bit painful sometimes.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
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Central Area of Texas
Wanted to share a few pix of what I have changed and gotten done on the "Taffy" bike.

figured out a way to make the front engine mount up by using two of the kit type large frame mount setup, it should work fine and it didn't cost much, win win in my opinion since the parts may have never been used otherwise.

Today a took this bike all the way back down to just the frame with only the kickstand and seat not being removed, llist below expalins what parts have changed on it.

1. New Z410 chain cranks to wheel cog, replaced the cheap Bell brand chain.
2. New wide profile one piece cranks and larger 44T chainring.
3. New 22T Sturmey Archer Sprocket/Cog to replace the 18T on the Simano hub.
4. Replaced the solid front forks with a set of really nice Suntour adjustable suspension forks, had to build a spacer from a link bushing I picked up at Tractor supply earlier today, I had to enlarge the ID of the bushing to 27mm ID and about 15mm up inside the bushing for it to work, since the lower bearing race area on the stem graduated up from 1" to 27mm at the very bottom of the steering stem, the stem on these forks is 9 1/8" long and most all of my frames only need a 6-6 1/2" stem length, but these forks were regular priced at $139.99 and I got them for $50, so I knew I could make them work, to cut the stem to correct length and rethread would be ideal, but I dont have the dies for that, and my tiny little local bike shop doesn't either, and that would have cost more than I wanted to invest in the forks anyway, so I did it this way for now, my plan is to order a couple of the two piece locking collars from Mcmaster Carr, then later on I'll cut the access tube length off and make these a threadless set up, very easy to do later if for some reason I dont like the way the bike rides with the extra fork length and the extra rake that created doing it the way I did.
5. Built up a longer front brake cable since the one I had made for when it had the shorter fork became to short for the current setup.
6. I also got the pull starter installed on engine, which I think I'm gonna really like having again, had one on my very first build and really liked not having to bump start the bike, less chain stretch and the clutch pucks last a lot longer.
7. I also sorta mocked up the exhaust I plan to use on this bike in the beginning, the chamber is a moped pipe I got from treatland.tv, the cranks are wide enough that I can use this pipe just about anyway I decide to, the header pipe is 1" ID flexable exhaust tubing, if I like this pipe on this engine I will be wrapping the header pipe with some exhaust wrap I have to make it look better, I my remove silencer and braze a larger stinger pipe on this chamber if it acts like its a bit to much restricted, but I wont know all that until I get the bike running and that will be a while yet since I have a fuel tank to build, layback seat post to build and a couple other ideas for this bike.
8. I also chased all the M6x1.00 threads in the mounting areas and intake since this case only had the holes threaded about half way down th hole.

By the way the front mount isn't finished, I will make some proper spacers from small diameter tubing to go in place of where you see the 5/16" nuts being used as spacers now, the engine is just snugged slightly in the frame and mainly being held in place by rear mount.
 

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mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
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Central Area of Texas
Maybe should put the bushing on top side. MSC has a die that are not to exspencive ...........Curt
A bushing for what Curtis, Im not following you sir.

What is MSC?

Are you talking about a spacer to close the gap up top?

If that is what you mean, I already have one I just need to chuck it up in the lathe and remove about .250" from it since its to thick like it is.
 

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
6,048
3,959
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minesota
On the fork you put the bushing below the head tub switch it to top,maybe handle better.

MSC inc. is industrial supply ............Curt
 
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BOYGOFAST

New Member
Sep 28, 2013
124
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0
Citrus Springs Fl.
Well,I like most of it but me thinks the engine is in question ,after running my brand new 66 cc less than 20 miles it's back on the shelf. hey the engine was less than a hundred buck's but the issue remains vibration not cost as much as I'd spend more but I'd estimate the crankshaft is not heavy enough for the stock assembly to begin with.I'm excluding every single need outside this at this point to get the 66 to run as smooth as the expensive 2 stokers on the market.I'm thinking the only way is to shorten the stroke at least 7 mm and lightening the piston without touching the crankshaft whatsoever. Anyway I'm not holding on that though much but there's no way I'm putting up with the 66 I'm try the 48 . Got a Nexus,bot an Archer too I can link to them one way or the other the best link is exampled on this website the least desirable is likely the one I'll use for now I'm yet unsure. I'd honestly like to believe that someone owns a smooth running 66 cc mine is smooth up to about 2500 rpm or so that's it.Yeah I'd be your bike will work nicely but without the gearing the effortless pull from standing stop is a mystery only rumored I'd had the slightest sensation of powerband for a second or so before interruption .. yeah likened to 7.2 or something.
 
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Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
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0
San Antonio Texas
Well,I like most of it but me thinks the engine is in question ,after running my brand new 66 cc less than 20 miles it's back on the shelf. hey the engine was less than a hundred buck's but the issue remains vibration not cost as much as I'd spend more but I'd estimate the crankshaft is not heavy enough for the stock assembly to begin with.I'm excluding every single need outside this at this point to get the 66 to run as smooth as the expensive 2 stokers on the market.I'm thinking the only way is to shorten the stroke at least 7 mm and lightening the piston without touching the crankshaft whatsoever. Anyway I'm not holding on that though much but there's no way I'm putting up with the 66 I'm try the 48 . Got a Nexus,bot an Archer too I can link to them one way or the other the best link is exampled on this website the least desirable is likely the one I'll use for now I'm yet unsure. I'd honestly like to believe that someone owns a smooth running 66 cc mine is smooth up to about 2500 rpm or so that's it.Yeah I'd be your bike will work nicely but without the gearing the effortless pull from standing stop is a mystery only rumored I'd had the slightest sensation of powerband for a second or so before interruption .. yeah likened to 7.2 or something.
The engines he uses won't be having any vibration problems I'm sure... I built one from the same type bottom end last year and it runs vibration free all the way to 10,000 rpm or more... There IS a huge difference in quality between the old run of the mills ebay stuff and a Dax engine or bottom end.
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
Man that bike is taking shape nicely... I'm really liking that pipe and the way you got it routed.. it really makes the bike look mean.

I got my engine out right now for a few upgrades to the top end but I'm planning on giving the bike a strip down and a real paint job while I got her apart... and I really want to get one of those KX pipes I got set up to fit the bike before I put it all back together again... the KTM pipe works great but I just don't like the way it looks...

Oh, BTW... I had a little time to test out my powder coat setup and it looks like everything is going to work well for doing the small parts with the toaster oven I got. I powder coated an old wrench yellow to test it out and it came out really nice looking... I didn't care too much for the color, but the finish was really nice right out of the oven. Definitely going to get the better colors now that I now it's gonna work.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Well,I like most of it but me thinks the engine is in question ,after running my brand new 66 cc less than 20 miles it's back on the shelf. hey the engine was less than a hundred buck's but the issue remains vibration not cost as much as I'd spend more but I'd estimate the crankshaft is not heavy enough for the stock assembly to begin with.I'm excluding every single need outside this at this point to get the 66 to run as smooth as the expensive 2 stokers on the market.I'm thinking the only way is to shorten the stroke at least 7 mm and lightening the piston without touching the crankshaft whatsoever. Anyway I'm not holding on that though much but there's no way I'm putting up with the 66 I'm try the 48 . Got a Nexus,bot an Archer too I can link to them one way or the other the best link is exampled on this website the least desirable is likely the one I'll use for now I'm yet unsure. I'd honestly like to believe that someone owns a smooth running 66 cc mine is smooth up to about 2500 rpm or so that's it.Yeah I'd be your bike will work nicely but without the gearing the effortless pull from standing stop is a mystery only rumored I'd had the slightest sensation of powerband for a second or so before interruption .. yeah likened to 7.2 or something.

Why in the heck would you think my engine is in question man, you are freaking clueless about 90% of what you post on this forum.....please do us a favor and go find another forum to post your goofy ideas on, If you had something worth reading to offer that would be different, but you pop in on everyone threads with post after post that is not only unrelated to that the conversation much of the time and most of the stuff you post isnt helpful.

Yeah this post struck a nerve with me, Im tired of this sort of ignorance showing up from you in my threads and everyone elses also, either get yourself together or stay out of peoples threads and just read and learn a thing or two, because you are mostly clueless to what you are talking about.


Sorry, people Im just tired of this, ve held my tongue many times but this one got me with the first sentence.

Map