muffler.

industrialphreak · Apr 7, 2011

So I am having a heck of a time keeping my muffler on, noticed the gasket was humongous and rather malformed. now its chewed up, any idea if its still a good idea to have the stock muffler as in it needs the back preasure to keep the engine healthy or can i lighten the muffler by either cutting some of the baffles out and possibly making it a straight pipe?

I just dont want to nuke my engine like I did with my stupid 2 stroke kits. oh and i am using the stock provided muffler clamps to keep everything happy. Just dont want to use thread lock compound as this is not a permanent frame install. and additionally how do you guys do oil changes i dont want to have to top the engine and or remove it just to do my oil changes the first few times when i am burning it in.

2door · Apr 8, 2011

What kind of engine are we talking about?
If the gasket is bad, replace it. Exhaust gasket material is available at most auto parts stores. Cut your own. Use lock washers and torque them just enought to flatten the washer then just a squeak more. After the engine has reached operating temperature a couple of times give the bolts/nuts, whatever, a little twist. Don't overdo it. Just an tiny turn. You should be good. If you want to use a thread locking compound (I'm not a fan) stay away from Loctite red. You'll have problems getting things loose if you do. Go blue or green, preferably blue.

Tom

industrialphreak · Apr 9, 2011

Oh its one of those deamon four strokers 49cc with hoot gearbox.

The_Aleman · Apr 13, 2011

Are you using the box-type muffler with plastic cover or the chrome pipe? If you're using the chrome pipe, the exhaust gasket should be the same as a china 2-stroke's. Very easy to make. Don't worry about killing your engine, these 4-strokes are much tougher engines to kill than the chinagirls are. Just keep oil in it and don't rev it over 7500 all the time and it'll keep purring. Very likely to outlive your gearbox, maybe even bike!

As for oil changes, you can get a nipple, some line for nipple, and a petcock from the hardware store and make an easy remote oil drain. You can also do like my brother does and use an "oilsucker" to suck the oil out through the filler. I just remove the engine with gearbox attached because it's very simple on my setup. My brother and I run 20W50 synthetic after break-in. 15W40 is very good as well, HD-rated for industrial applications. I feel straight 30-weight is not optimum for our application.

industrialphreak · Apr 13, 2011

I wonder if that may be explaining some of my issues after fully being assembled. it will run from a cold start like a champ. just when i put a load on it test ride style it will kind get all under powered and putter to a stop. thought i might play with the idling settings, then when i looked at my "fresh oil" was almost pitch black.

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