HS Friction Drive Problem

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 27, 2012

Hey guys, I just got my HS friction drive kit from 80cc Motorboys in Canada.

My problem is that the clutch disk thing wasn't threaded onto the friction shaft. When I tried to thread it on there, it won't fit. The threads will not even start.

:-||

(I used all 7 words repeatedly!)

I measured the shaft diameter, and it is 10mm OD. The threaded part inside of the clutch measures 9mm.

Should they be closer to the same size? I know there has to be room for the threads to interlock, but this thing won't even start to thread!

What would you suggest I try?
I sent an email to Ken at 80cc Motorboys to see what he says, but I think they're closed for the day.

I'm going to buy a metric tap & die set tomorrow on the way home from work. (I have one around here somewhere, but haven't used it in over 10 years, so now I can't find it when I need it!)

I'll run them over and inside the threads to check the size, and to clean the threads if needed.

Any other suggestions?

BTW, the good news is that the little 4 stroke fired right up! It's so quiet! I will be able to stealth ride with no problems now!

I just wanna ride!!!!!
cvlt1

thatsdax · Feb 27, 2012

do you have any pictures of the Friction Drive setup ?

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 27, 2012

thatsdax said:
do you have any pictures of the Friction Drive setup ?

This is a picture of the same kit, but the round chutch thing wasn't mounted on the shaft on mine.

bandito · Feb 27, 2012

The clutch drum in the pic is threaded onto the shaft, exactly what is a clutch thingy? Cannot help you if your not specific, are you talking about putting the clutch on the crank?............nice bike, what size motor is that?

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 27, 2012

bandito said:
The clutch drum in the pic is threaded onto the shaft, exactly what is a clutch thingy? Cannot help you if your not specific, are you talking about putting the clutch on the crank?............nice bike, what size motor is that?

Clutch thingy = clutch drum! Thanks for setting me straight on the terminology. LOL

On the one I got today, the clutch drum was not threaded onto the shaft. I cannot get it to thread on. That's the problem.

That picture isn't my bike, it is a picture that I found on the forum that has the same friction drive that I bought.

It's too dark to get a good picture of my actual unit.

I think the motor is 33cc's. (It may be 49.)

bandito · Feb 27, 2012

Are you turning it in the right direction? I dunno if those are left handed thread or not.

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 27, 2012

bandito said:
Are you turning it in the right direction? I dunno if those are left handed thread or not.

I tried both directions. It just seems like the hole is too small for the threaded part of the friction drive shaft.

rustycase · Feb 27, 2012

If it won't fit on there, it won't fit!
Apparently the maple leaf fellows are tossing parts at an open box same as many of the others!
Good thing u got Dax here trying to help you!

Gosh, it's gonna be a nice mab when you get it sorted out!
...just in time for spring/summer...
Best
rc

Ibedayank · Feb 27, 2012

bandito said:
The clutch drum in the pic is threaded onto the shaft, exactly what is a clutch thingy? Cannot help you if your not specific, are you talking about putting the clutch on the crank?............nice bike, what size motor is that?

thanks for the comments on the bike....

bike is a Next Avalon from walmart $119 plus tax

motor is 31cc and you better be carrying extra gas or after about 14 miles you will run out
these guys also have the same kit..
http://livefastmotors.com

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 28, 2012

I got it fixed.

The threads were messed up, so I had to clean them up with a tap and die.

Just for the record, in case anyone else has that problem, they are an odd size: M10x1.0. Very fine thread.

M10 bolts and threads are normally 1.25 or 1.5 pitch.

Now the clutch works too good. It will stall when stopped, and I have to pull start it while moving. It starts in one pull though, after it has warmed up.

It is a blast to ride, but it is designed to just sit on the tire, and you can't lock it down. The kit uses a prop rod that just holds the engine up (until you hit a bump). It would have been easier, and cheaper, for them to use a piece of flat steel stock (like one of the ones in a DAX kit).

Lesson learned: My next kit will be from DAX!

BTW Ibedayank,

Thanks for letting me steal the picture of your bike! I had forgotten who I stole it from! rotfl

(I used it to verify that all the parts were there in my kit.)

dance1

.

Ibedayank · Feb 28, 2012

Dirt Road Cowboy
I have found that with only one proprod it allows the tunnel ti shift and starts to burn/eat the tire. Did you check the bolts holding the clutch shoes in to make sure that they are tight? Mine backed out on me and will get the blue loctite when i get a chance to upgrade the clutch and redo the mounting. Staton sells a HD clutch that will fit these little motors and a 64oz / halfgallon gas tank that will be ordered .

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 28, 2012

Ibedayank said:
Dirt Road Cowboy
I have found that with only one proprod it allows the tunnel ti shift and starts to burn/eat the tire. Did you check the bolts holding the clutch shoes in to make sure that they are tight? Mine backed out on me and will get the blue loctite when i get a chance to upgrade the clutch and redo the mounting. Staton sells a HD clutch that will fit these little motors and a 64oz / halfgallon gas tank that will be ordered .

Ibedayank
Thanks for the info on the clutch and gas tank. I'll look into them.

I don't like the prop rod at all, and I'm going to get a flat piece of steel and make a better brace that I can tighten against the tire.

Thanks for posting about the 80cc Motorboys 4 stroke kit. It was a great price for the engine, and starter kit. I will get a DAX mounting kit next time though. I like the interchangeable drive wheels and double braces.

Ibedayank · Feb 28, 2012

its just like everything else you buy cheap. Mod it until its like you want it.
i picked up some smaller C channel that im going to make the bracestruts out of.
If you can make some spacers to fit on the inside of the tunnel on both ends so you get a more solid mount.

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 28, 2012

Ibedayank said:
its just like everything else you buy cheap. Mod it until its like you want it.
i picked up some smaller C channel that im going to make the bracestruts out of.
If you can make some spacers to fit on the inside of the tunnel on both ends so you get a more solid mount.

I may just get the ones from Staton. They look like good, thick steel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro...e_Spacers_for_Friction_drive_kits-330-34.html

BTW, what engine is this HS a copy of?

Is this the tank you were talking about?
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/Fuel_tank_64_oz_side_mount_Gas_Tank-232-0.html

Ibedayank · Feb 28, 2012

yeah that's the tank will need to make a mount for it
here is the hd clutch http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/Clutch_Rotor_76mm_Heavy_Duty_2_shoe_and_spring-235-16.html

happycheapskate · Feb 28, 2012

I like the extra-wide u-bracket on the photo, but I'm sticking with Dax stuff. I've gotten 2 kits and they were great. I think the clutch drum is welded on the shaft, and it looks heavy duty. The motor went on with 4 bolts and I was out the door and riding in short order.

rustycase said:
If it won't fit on there, it won't fit!
Apparently the maple leaf fellows are tossing parts at an open box same as many of the others!
Good thing u got Dax here trying to help you!

Gosh, it's gonna be a nice motorized bicycle when you get it sorted out!
...just in time for spring/summer...
Best
rc

happycheapskate · Feb 28, 2012

re: hit a bump. You might be able to replace the rear threaded rod with straps like other kits, or add a strong spring on the other side.

Can you bump up your idle speed or hold it with the throttle? You might just have a stiff clutch (the pivot points can be sticking some), or it might need adjustment.

I like the Quick Release setup on my dax. It makes cold starts a lot easier. If I leave the roller down, though I have to lift the rear of the bike on my double stand or pedal and pull it to re-start. It is easy after it is warm though.

Dirt Road Cowboy · Feb 28, 2012

happycheapskate said:
re: hit a bump. You might be able to replace the rear threaded rod with straps like other kits, or add a strong spring on the other side.

Can you bump up your idle speed or hold it with the throttle? You might just have a stiff clutch (the pivot points can be sticking some), or it might need adjustment.

I like the Quick Release setup on my dax. It makes cold starts a lot easier. If I leave the roller down, though I have to lift the rear of the bike on my double stand or pedal and pull it to re-start. It is easy after it is warm though.

I just ordered this from Staton:
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro...e_Spacers_for_Friction_drive_kits-330-34.html

That should take care of the mounting problem.

happycheapskate · Feb 28, 2012

That ought to do it. Best of luck!

rustycase · Feb 29, 2012

I agree, happy...

it does look like the clutch drum is welded on the shaft.

I would volunteer to do the welding, gratis... it's really no prob at all cuz I got the tig machine... Only prob is the freight.
Cost of shipping two ways is probably just not worth it???
Best
rc

HS Friction Drive Problem

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