Chain Tensioner-Install or Not?
- Thread starter zombie68
- Start date
Unless you can adjust the tension on the chain by moving the rear wheel away from the engine (drop outs with openings facing the rear), you may have issues as the chain can stretch over time due to wear within the pins inside each roller. There are people who run without the tensioner, and it is much simpler if you can still adjust the tension via the rear wheel.
There are as many opinions on this as there are builders. I needed mine as a guide to keep the drive chain clear of the chainstays. If a future build doesn't need it, I may look at going without one.
I discovered this to be my problem, also. I guess that I will put the damned thing on until I figure something else out
I would only suggest you use HD chain with no tensioner. It does not stretch enough to cause issues. Stock chain will require more maintenance.I discovered this to be my problem, also. I guess that I will put the damned thing on until I figure something else out
The HD chain is the problem AND the answer. It is durable enough not to cause stretching problems and can be run without tensioner, but is wider than standard chain so it wants to rub on chainstays.....
Maybe I just need a bigger hammer......
It'spossible to spread the stays with some clamps and a small bottle jack. I just stood on mine and bent it out with a big iron prybar, but I don't reccomend you do it that way. I earned my handle.
A cruiser frame generally has the best clearance for not using a tensioner
a smaller sprocket also helps- the smaller circumfrence gives the chain a little more clearance away from the the seat and chain stays-
It really is the most trouble free set-up- when and if you can achieve it-
another tip- if you are matching up chains and the chains length, it's easier to make changes- i.e.- cut, or add half link- to the PEDAL side- but only if you can first set the motor chain about half way in the rear drop-out.
a derailleur on the pedal side otherwise automatically tensions that side- you can just set the motor side otherwise and the deraileur takes up the slack on the pedal side- you could even adjust one I suppose to set on one cog if you want, and not worry about shifting-
I used to run multi-speed but when I found I wasn't really using it- I put on a single speed freewheel- like a 22 to make a very light pedal- and then just matched the chjains with no tensioner. Never any chain problems- most chains stretch a little bit- but usually only at first- after an adjustment or two- they stay set.
a smaller sprocket also helps- the smaller circumfrence gives the chain a little more clearance away from the the seat and chain stays-
It really is the most trouble free set-up- when and if you can achieve it-
another tip- if you are matching up chains and the chains length, it's easier to make changes- i.e.- cut, or add half link- to the PEDAL side- but only if you can first set the motor chain about half way in the rear drop-out.
a derailleur on the pedal side otherwise automatically tensions that side- you can just set the motor side otherwise and the deraileur takes up the slack on the pedal side- you could even adjust one I suppose to set on one cog if you want, and not worry about shifting-
I used to run multi-speed but when I found I wasn't really using it- I put on a single speed freewheel- like a 22 to make a very light pedal- and then just matched the chjains with no tensioner. Never any chain problems- most chains stretch a little bit- but usually only at first- after an adjustment or two- they stay set.
wow , lots of good advice. It looks to me like with the provided advice that i can adjust tension at the wheel. Yes i do have to widen my Stays ad the chain they sent (pretty hefty!) is "just" touching/rubbing on stays. Yes you can muscle them into shape, i have also done this on bikes when i was a kid, so spreading stays, no problem. im also going to have to reshape/bend the wide crank arms as they dont clear the tranny case
Does anyone have a Reccomendation on ( slop/play/tension- Distance between max top stretch to bottom stretch when pinch/pulled by fingers) ?
1/2 to 3/4" of slack is the recommended chain tension. That applies to almost any roller chain drive application.
Tom
Tom
I hate fat chain (415) I find it loud, hard to work on, and overkill.
I'll take an HD 410 Diamond or KMC Z-chain every time but other than Skyhawks most kits ship with 415 sprockets so your screwed.
If it's your personal ride then no tensioner is best, if it's for someone else however a tensioner makes life much easier for them.
If you don't have horizontal dropouts forget it, but as mention if you can adjust the wheel back your set.
Also as mentioned if you have a deraileur on the pedal side it tensions itself, if not then you can add a 1/2 link to the pedal side if needed and put a tensioner there.
Note this is NOT ideal if you use the coaster brake!.
If your ONLY brake is the coaster brake then besides being a fool a tensioner on the pedal side will just make your inevitable crash because you couldn't stop come sooner when it fails.
No tensioner should ever be on the drive force side of a chain, for the pedal side it is not for pedaling in the above examples, but it IS the force side when you back pedal to slam on the brakes, especially in an emergency.
On coaster brake bikes I like to just put on a couple of caliper brakes with a dual pull brake lever so the coaster brake is just a 3rd emergency brake which makes this system pretty reliable and safe providing you keep an eye on your drive chain tension until it's broke in.
This isn't a direct drive no tensioner build as a tensioner makes it easier for the customer but adding good brakes is not hard or expensive.
The last thing most sane people want is something like this.
Then again there are still people that spend $500 on a motor kit and performance parts and then slam it on an $88 WallyWorld bike with just a coaster brake and ride wearing nothing but a swim suit and flip-flops.
You don't see many of them on the forums, they usually end up on the Darwin list before they have a chance ;-}
I'll take an HD 410 Diamond or KMC Z-chain every time but other than Skyhawks most kits ship with 415 sprockets so your screwed.
If it's your personal ride then no tensioner is best, if it's for someone else however a tensioner makes life much easier for them.
If you don't have horizontal dropouts forget it, but as mention if you can adjust the wheel back your set.
Also as mentioned if you have a deraileur on the pedal side it tensions itself, if not then you can add a 1/2 link to the pedal side if needed and put a tensioner there.
Note this is NOT ideal if you use the coaster brake!.
If your ONLY brake is the coaster brake then besides being a fool a tensioner on the pedal side will just make your inevitable crash because you couldn't stop come sooner when it fails.
No tensioner should ever be on the drive force side of a chain, for the pedal side it is not for pedaling in the above examples, but it IS the force side when you back pedal to slam on the brakes, especially in an emergency.
On coaster brake bikes I like to just put on a couple of caliper brakes with a dual pull brake lever so the coaster brake is just a 3rd emergency brake which makes this system pretty reliable and safe providing you keep an eye on your drive chain tension until it's broke in.
This isn't a direct drive no tensioner build as a tensioner makes it easier for the customer but adding good brakes is not hard or expensive.
The last thing most sane people want is something like this.
Then again there are still people that spend $500 on a motor kit and performance parts and then slam it on an $88 WallyWorld bike with just a coaster brake and ride wearing nothing but a swim suit and flip-flops.
You don't see many of them on the forums, they usually end up on the Darwin list before they have a chance ;-}
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I've never built anything but beach cruisers with semi-horizontal dropouts. On my first bike, I used just about everything in the kit because I didn't know any better. That tensioner was a pita. On my second bike, I ran the tensioner for awhile, but eventually decided to move it to the pedal chain side. Since I only did minimal pedaling, I put the tensioner on the top chain run. This did cause a bit of a rough feel when pedaling, but I did not care. My latest bike is a 98cc cruiser with a custom transmission, and unfortunately I can not run without a tensioner due to my gearbox design. The chain would rub part of the gearbox without a tensioner. I never liked the stock setup, being a static (non-moving) design, the idler wheel can wear heavily if even just a little too much tension is applied. There is also the danger of the force of the chain pulling the tensioner into the spokes, which after spending $800 to build this bike, I can't afford to have happen, nor do I want to take unnecessary risks to personal safety. So I found on ebay the hardware to convert the stock tensioner to spring-loaded, and it has worked out wonderfully for me. There are those on the forum who will say a spring tensioner is not necessary unless running a full suspension bike, and I understand we've already had that conversation. I'm simply sharing my own experiences here.