The bogging went away it was one of two things if not both but it was low on gas n i was using 16-1 ratio i switched to 20-1 n bogging quit i got my full power n speed but my resistor cap broke so now im dealing with that and trying to figure out perfect placement for clutch arm cable and needle seat on carb trying to find a place that sells ngk resistor caps
Resistor cap??? What is that, the plug wire boot? That's the only thing I can figure you could mean... If you mean spark plug, why resistor? Most people are moving to the NGK BP6HS plug if I am not mistaken, that's what I am running...
My spark plug cap broke right away, in fact, just about EVERY part that had a spare in my kit broke the first week. When I first saw all those spare parts I kinda scratched my head and wondered, the first week of riding everything became clear!
To replace my plug boot, I just went to the local auto store and asked them to see their selection of single plug wires. They had a box behind the counter full of single plug wires, coil wires etc. I settled on a 2 ft coil wire that had a regular rubber right angle spark plug boot on each end. It fits the spark plugs with the CAP ON (that screw on tip of the spark plug) like in a car. I cut the coil wire in half and had a wire for two bike motors.
To put the new wire on the CDI, could be easy, could take some time. Inside the CDI the plug wire just threads down onto a wood screw, no joke, a wood screw! The wire is held in place with some sort of glue, sometimes just a touch, sometimes a LOT (like mine). To remove the wire I grabbed it with some pliers and twisted it like I would twist a nut to unscrew it. If you're lucky the wire will screw out of the CDI. If its glued in there solid like mine the wire will probably twist and break off. I had to take some small tools, a leatherman tool, small drill bit, a nail, and carefully pick the rubber from the old wire out of the CDI. Soon enough you will see the wood screw in there, pick the hole clean until the screw is completely exposed and all the old rubber is out of the hole. Now just screw your new wire into the hole, making sure the center conductor of the wire threads onto the screw. Seal the whole thing real good with silicone and your done. I put silicone on the outside of the wire so it went into the CDI and glued it in place better, but make sure you dont get silicone over the screw...
It takes a little time but it's worth the effort, I now have a quality wire and plug boot that is rubber and will last longer than this motor. Also, the rubber boot is flexible (unlike the original plastic thing) so it can go on and off the plug with less clearance required, which might be helpful to some. The original plastic plug boot barely made it over the plug on my bike because the frame is small, the new rubber one goes on like a breeze with clearance to spare...
On the bogging, I had one friend that had an NT carb and he said it seems he gets bogging on the top end when his fuel tank is near empty, if the tank is full the bogging goes away. (or so he said) I mention this because you had said your tank was near empty when you had the bogging...
