Problems Starting

GoldenMotor.com
Mar 5, 2014
114
0
16
Eastwood
So I have left my bike in the garage for about a week because I was sorting out mounting issues which were fixed today, so I took it for a spin, it started cold on about half choke because I have problems starting on full choke and then I idled it and revved it and it stalled on me while revving. After that it would not start, I tried priming, draining the float bowl, down hill, up hill, straight road, everything I can think of. Can anyone out there help me I want to get my bike back on cruising!
 

BigBlue

Member
Nov 29, 2011
781
0
16
California
It could be any issue why it won't start. It's either electrical or fuel caused. It could be stale fuel (sitting too long or excess moisture), too rich of a mixture (fouling plug), crap in the fuel tank, faulty kill switch, etc. Is the engine new or have you been running it for a while? Checked for spark? Have you ran it in the rain or let it sit outside in the rain?

Here's a no start guide that might help you with your problem:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aBeJuoS--VQWwXysc07rpscTUbPzgc93xjiQBgsyFjc/edit

Good Luck,

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
Mar 5, 2014
114
0
16
Eastwood
My bike is very new, I probably would of ridden it about 5km, I have kept it in my garage but I have ridden it in the rain but i ran perfectly after that and I also ran out of fuel after this and refueled so that isn't the problem. It tries to start because I pedal up to speed release the clutch and i can rev it but different to when it is started it is quieter, then when I release the clutch it just dies. How would I drain my fuel properly if that is the problem? The ratio of the fuel is 16:1.
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
6
38
Central Illinois
If it'll start and run but immediately dies under any load, wouldn't that suggest a carburetor jet issue?

But that's more or less a guess since I don't really know that much about the insides of carburetors.
 
Mar 5, 2014
114
0
16
Eastwood
I have to make a correction, I meant to say that after I pedal up to speed i release the clutch and pedal i can rev it while i am pedelling but it is not revving as if it is started then when i stop pedelling i just come to a stop. So it doesnt run at all.
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
Take off the small sidecover and see if there is water inside. ANY water in the cover will short the coil and kill spark.
Even if it ran after the rainstorm, it can (and almost always WILL) short out as soon as the water gets stirred up by riding again. The coils can also work sometimes and die randomly after getting wet.
Sounds to me like you shorted your coil.
A new one is about $15 bucks.
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
6
38
Central Illinois
Okay. But it still sounds like you need to verify that you have spark.

So pull the spark plug out, then re-attach it to the spark plug wire.

Now prop the bike up so that you're able to spin the rear wheel. Lay the spark plug threads against the engine and spin the rear wheel.

You should see spark at the spark plug tip.

If the answer is yes, then it would seem that you've got a fuel delivery issue. But it doesn't sound like that's it to me.

If the answer is no, then go over your wiring from the magneto to the CDI to the spark plug and make sure there's no open circuits or damaged wiring. If that all checks out, then there's simple ways of testing some of those components.
 
Mar 5, 2014
114
0
16
Eastwood
I had a look if I had spark and I did not, what I did was turn the bike upside down because I dont have a bike stand and put it into gear and spun the pedals and no spark. I tried the spair plug and the original and the spair gap was smaller, but quite a lot, the top part was bent. I can test the components with a multimeter but I dont know how, I looked for obvious damage but saw known, can you tell me how to test the components with a multimeter?

Regards,
Lachiepower0402
 

Theon

New Member
Jan 20, 2014
1,440
6
0
FNQ Australia
First thing to do is disconnect the kill switch and see if that fixes it.
Disconect the blue wire going to the mag from the wiring harnsess, and test with Ohm meter, should have 300 odd Ohms.
Unlikely that it is the CDI, more likely the Mag or the Kill switch.
Original plug wire and cap are also Sh*t.
 
Mar 5, 2014
114
0
16
Eastwood
I am an noob at multimeter's I just have one, could you please tell me exactly how to use it, like what mode to put it to on the multimeter and do i connect or disconnect it from the CDI then place the positive and negative lead on the blue wire?

Thank you in Advance
 
Mar 5, 2014
114
0
16
Eastwood
I don't know if it is my multimeter or not but i connected the negative lead to the cylinder head and the positive lead to the blue wire coming out of the magneto and disconnected the black wire from the magneto and also connected and I got the the reading of Overload on the 2K OHM setting.
 

Theon

New Member
Jan 20, 2014
1,440
6
0
FNQ Australia
Mag is stuffed.
test multimeter by touching the two leads together, should read approx. zero.
These Mags are one of the engines weakest links.
 
Last edited:
Mar 5, 2014
114
0
16
Eastwood
I set the multimeter to 2K OHM and touch the two wires and it read .000 so it is fine. How often will I have to replace it because i don't really want to replace it every 2 months or so!

Also where is the best place to get it from. Mine is a blygo 48cc motor, should I get it from the seller or aftermarket?
 
Last edited:

Theon

New Member
Jan 20, 2014
1,440
6
0
FNQ Australia
Blygo is not my favorite vendor,
Most of what I have got from them has been dodgy.
I suggest buying a spare mag, even if you never need it, good to have.
I am a member of 'Screaming Roo' forum, Dino is having Mag Problems also!
But is trying his hardest to supply a 'Super Mag'.
The Mag without a white wire, if you can find one on EBay is the one I suggest.
I'm sure I saw one there the other day.