Motor aggressively yanked off of bike?
- Thread starter stuckonreplay
- Start date
The metal backing plates that go over the rubber rag joint that sandwiches the spokes. This doesn't look flat and looks to be over lapping one of the other ones in the picture.
Yes, the plates should sit flat next to each other and not overlap each other on the rag joint sprocket assembly as shown in your picture, so that indicates some problem there. How many spokes does your wheel have on each side? I really suspect your rear sprocket/rag joint assembly is the root of all your problems (pushing you to change the motor mount, which is another problem)
Is that one bolt rear mount made of plastic? Either way, it doesn't seem secure enough IMHO, you need to use the two stud mount that is supplied with the kit if you ask me. I don't see a picture of how this single bolt mount mates with the motor, but it looks like it would make things be a bit cockeyed, and will not stand up to the torsion forces that will be on that motor mount. (as you learned the hard way)
One important picture you didn't post, and what you should be looking at to see what you need to do to make the chain alignment proper, a view of the chain running from the motor back to the rear sprocket. If when the motor is centered and mounted with all 4 studs your chain rubs the mount, then you need to adjust the rear sprocket somehow. If that means you need to buy a sprocket that is dished to one side so it puts the chain further from center, or putting a thicker rubber behind the sprocket on the rag joint... or maybe your tire wasn't mounted straight originally and caused the whole problem?
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My chain was destroyed. When I get the new one I will be more than happy to show you guys.
i had to use a screwdriver to pry the plates in order for them to lie flat.
rear sprocket needs to be near perfect when its turning,up and down makes chain loose and tight,causing it to put chain under stress.
side to side makes it want to jump off sprocket.
aligning wheel in frame may also be part of this too,depending on the dropouts.
rear sprocket needs to be near perfect when its turning,up and down makes chain loose and tight,causing it to put chain under stress.
side to side makes it want to jump off sprocket.
aligning wheel in frame may also be part of this too,depending on the dropouts.
Your new mounting looks very successful! Well done!
Do keep an eye on the down tube where the "expert builder" drilled a hole through it. The hole created a weak spot and the frame can now crack there.
Be very cautious with that chain tensioner though. They are well known for rotating on the chain stay and going into the rear wheel spokes, tearing up everything.
The most reliable use a simple strap that goes from the seat stay to the chain stay with a slot for the tensioner wheel mounted in the middle.
Check out this thread Click here for pictures and ideas.
Do keep an eye on the down tube where the "expert builder" drilled a hole through it. The hole created a weak spot and the frame can now crack there.
Be very cautious with that chain tensioner though. They are well known for rotating on the chain stay and going into the rear wheel spokes, tearing up everything.
The most reliable use a simple strap that goes from the seat stay to the chain stay with a slot for the tensioner wheel mounted in the middle.
Check out this thread Click here for pictures and ideas.
Thanks a lot! Do you suggest a just mount the old plate and bolt there to fill in the hole?
Simply filling the hole with a bolt will not return the strength that was once there. It will only act as a hole plug like a cork in a bottle. The integral strength of the tubing needs to be restored.
Fill the hole in with solid steel plug and weld. You could also cut in half lengthwise a short piece of suitable sized tubing to create a clam shell and weld that over the hole, top and bottom or left and right. Have it overlap the hole by an inch or so. Don't weld it all at once, just in short stitches or the frame tubing will become weakened by the heat (decarbonized) and become brittle. Proper heat control is paramount.
Fill the hole in with solid steel plug and weld. You could also cut in half lengthwise a short piece of suitable sized tubing to create a clam shell and weld that over the hole, top and bottom or left and right. Have it overlap the hole by an inch or so. Don't weld it all at once, just in short stitches or the frame tubing will become weakened by the heat (decarbonized) and become brittle. Proper heat control is paramount.
Somebody built that Schwinn Delmar for you? That plastic 'rear mount' is from a chain guard. I've got quite a few myself,don't do chaingaurds.
I've got this bike with a 4 stroke(frame and seat are only original parts) and it rides great. Hope you get it going.
If someone did build it for you,that's messed up. How is it vendor bashing if the vendor is selling a product that's liable to kill someone?
I've got this bike with a 4 stroke(frame and seat are only original parts) and it rides great. Hope you get it going.
If someone did build it for you,that's messed up. How is it vendor bashing if the vendor is selling a product that's liable to kill someone?
mount looks better than what you started with.
as mentioned above,the best way is to plug and weld the hole,reinforcing with the plates will restore the frame's integrity.
i also agree with the tensioner re-working.if you can get chain tight enough to run without it would be a good way to go.
i welded mine to the frame.
as mentioned above,the best way is to plug and weld the hole,reinforcing with the plates will restore the frame's integrity.
i also agree with the tensioner re-working.if you can get chain tight enough to run without it would be a good way to go.
i welded mine to the frame.
