Cranbrook Builders!-Please Help!

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CARider

CARider

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May 20, 2013
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Hello!
I am just wondering what modifications you have to do to build a Huffy Cranbrook with a China girl. I have been researching and know to cut the fender for chain clearing- but I'm wondering how to put on the sprocket easy and how to get the chain tensioner in line with the chain. Currently stuck- so please help
:-||
 
xseler

xseler

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Apr 14, 2013
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I had to use a big Crescent wrench to slightly bend the tensioner so the chain would run true. Not really a big deal.

The spocket assembled as such ---- follow the directions on the order of the parts. Make sure the hole on the sprocket is evenly spaced around the axle. Snug up the bolts hand tight. Then use a criss-cross pattern and slowly tighten nuts. I think that I went around the sprocket tightening maybe 4 to 5 times. When you tighten this way, the sprocket tends to stay centered around the axle.

Good luck!
 
dodge dude94

dodge dude94

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Jun 8, 2012
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I bored my sprocket out with a dremel and didn't have issue getting the idler to line up. All you do with that is make sure the "long side" is on the inside of the frame.

And ditch the fenders. Period. They're scary as hel1.
 
xseler

xseler

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Oh, you'll also have to do a 'custom' bend on the brake arm if you plan on using the coaster brake.
 
B

bigbutterbean

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Jan 31, 2011
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Yeah fenders, gone. Chain tensioner, gone or move to pedal side. Pedal chain guard, gone. You'll need the extra room to mount the engine low enough in the frame. You can buy a universal engine mount if your kit does not include one, this will allow you to install a narrow front mount on a wide tube. Or you may get lucky like I did and end up with an engine with a wide front mount. The cranbrook was my last bike. I've since moved on to a custom Schwinn with a 98cc minibike engine. You'll need a front brake. You can mount a caliper brake to the front fork at the fender mount hole, or if you find a fork with v-brakes that will fit the cranny (1 inch steerer tube) then use that. Front suspension makes a world of difference. Also, if you're a big guy like me, you wont like that huffy seat too much. I ended up buying a Worksman seat thats 13" wide and its much more comfortable. The stock rear wheel sucks, you might be ok with it for awhile if you are really careful with sprocket installation and hub re-assembly. Use lots of high temp grease in the coaster brake hub, it helps. Service it every 500 miles or so if it lasts that long. Good luck.
 
xseler

xseler

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Apr 14, 2013
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dodge dude94 said:
I honestly never figured out how to do that. lol
My chain isn't terribly out of line anyhow, so I never messed with it.
Click to expand...

Mine wouldn't clear the bolt heads for the sprocket without bending. It's got about a business card thickness clearance now! :D
 
xseler

xseler

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Apr 14, 2013
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CARider said:
Do you have to take off the coaster brake?
Click to expand...

You do to get the sprocket on the wheel, then you put the brake lever back on after you've bent it to fit.

A set of cone wrenches will make it much easier to get the bearing adjustment correct.


Caliper brakes front and rear with a double action hand lever is the preferred way to brake these machines.
 
dodge dude94

dodge dude94

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Jun 8, 2012
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xseler said:
You do to get the sprocket on the wheel, then you put the brake lever back on after you've bent it to fit.

A set of cone wrenches will make it much easier to get the bearing adjustment correct.


Caliper brakes front and rear with a double action hand lever is the preferred way to brake these machines.
Click to expand...
Yep. Tektro C230. Pair of em for like $25 at amazon.
 
G

graydog8josh

Member
Nov 23, 2012
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Starkville,MS
bigbutterbean said:
Yeah fenders, gone. Chain tensioner, gone or move to pedal side. Pedal chain guard, gone. You'll need the extra room to mount the engine low enough in the frame. You can buy a universal engine mount if your kit does not include one, this will allow you to install a narrow front mount on a wide tube. Or you may get lucky like I did and end up with an engine with a wide front mount. The cranbrook was my last bike. I've since moved on to a custom Schwinn with a 98cc minibike engine. You'll need a front brake. You can mount a caliper brake to the front fork at the fender mount hole, or if you find a fork with v-brakes that will fit the cranny (1 inch steerer tube) then use that. Front suspension makes a world of difference. Also, if you're a big guy like me, you wont like that huffy seat too much. I ended up buying a Worksman seat thats 13" wide and its much more comfortable. The stock rear wheel sucks, you might be ok with it for awhile if you are really careful with sprocket installation and hub re-assembly. Use lots of high temp grease in the coaster brake hub, it helps. Service it every 500 miles or so if it lasts that long. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Im getting a cranbrook is it a threadless 1" >? im looking at getting this:
http://www.amazon.com/SR-Suntour-Su...1375255917&sr=8-9&keywords=suspension+fork+26
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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CARider said:
Do you have to take off the coaster brake?
Click to expand...
Yes, as mentioned the brake arm needs to be out of the way to mount the sprocket.

Tip for removing the coaster brake arm:
There is not another nut on the wheel you can hold to remove the nut that hold the brake arm on without potentially compromising the already crappy huffy back hubs.

Find yourself something very sturdy like a low work bench, picnic table bench, or filing cabinet.
Put the wheel up against it with the brake arm flat on the surface.
Now put your wrench on the nut and hold the wheel down so the brake arm itself is the counter force to break the nut free.

In the event that nut still won't break free put your wrench in place to turn with a downward force (box end wrench at about a 15 degree above the brake arm on the same side), raise the whole wheel up and slam the brake arm down on the flat surface as you push down on the wrench.

Works every time and it don't mess with your bearings but it does take a toll on what you use to slam it on.

This is my desk side filing cabinet and after 50 or so coaster brake wheels I had to put a big metal plate down so I didn't break it!
 

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fatdaddy

fatdaddy

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May 4, 2011
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San Jose, Ca.
I've been riding my Cranny for almost two years, No problems so far.
As for getting the engine over the chain guard. You will need a big frame kit anyway, So buy a U-bolt kit,(or make your own.) This will set the engine higher in the frame. I got mine to just barely clear the guard. DO NOT get the big frame kit that requires you to drill the frame. U-bolts ONLY. I'll include a pic of the type I used.
And yeah, Ya gotta bend the brake arm some so it clears the sprocket.
And you need to get the drive sprocket and rear sprocket IN LINE, BEFORE you set up the tensioner. The tensioner is not meant to keep the chain lined up, It's only to adjust chain tension. But you can bend it and twist it around to make it line up with the chain properly.
I kinda cheated a little on setting up the rear sprocket. I used a sprocket adapter. A rag joint works fine, just harder to set up. You will need the hub diameter if you want to order a hub adapter. It's 1.523 inches.
I finally found a set of 1" threaded forks with shocks for mine on craigslist. Makes a lot of difference in the ride.
And don't rely on the coaster brake only. Some folks may argue the point but I've been in a couple of wrecks because of that stupid coaster brake. It either won't stop you at all or locks up when ya least expect it. Especially at 35mph. Get almost any kind of brake on the front if possible. The forks I got came set up for cantilevers so it worked out great.
 

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DudeManBro

DudeManBro

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Jun 27, 2013
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Replace the back wheel with a free wheel, and add two cantilever brakes. Coaster brakes are just too flimsy and that axle will not hold
 
dodge dude94

dodge dude94

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Jun 8, 2012
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East Texas
fatdaddy said:
I've been riding my Cranny for almost two years, No problems so far.
As for getting the engine over the chain guard. You will need a big frame kit anyway, So buy a U-bolt kit,(or make your own.) This will set the engine higher in the frame. I got mine to just barely clear the guard. DO NOT get the big frame kit that requires you to drill the frame. U-bolts ONLY. I'll include a pic of the type I used.
And yeah, Ya gotta bend the brake arm some so it clears the sprocket.
And you need to get the drive sprocket and rear sprocket IN LINE, BEFORE you set up the tensioner. The tensioner is not meant to keep the chain lined up, It's only to adjust chain tension. But you can bend it and twist it around to make it line up with the chain properly.
I kinda cheated a little on setting up the rear sprocket. I used a sprocket adapter. A rag joint works fine, just harder to set up. You will need the hub diameter if you want to order a hub adapter. It's 1.523 inches.
I finally found a set of 1" threaded forks with shocks for mine on craigslist. Makes a lot of difference in the ride.
And don't rely on the coaster brake only. Some folks may argue the point but I've been in a couple of wrecks because of that stupid coaster brake. It either won't stop you at all or locks up when ya least expect it. Especially at 35mph. Get almost any kind of brake on the front if possible. The forks I got came set up for cantilevers so it worked out great.
Click to expand...
I've got a threaded disc brake fork on my mtn bike. Wish I'd grenade something on that bike to steal the fork. lmao
DudeManBro said:
Replace the back wheel with a free wheel, and add two cantilever brakes. Coaster brakes are just too flimsy and that axle will not hold
Click to expand...
Tell that to my rear wheel...

No dust cover for 250+ mi and it ain't even mad.

 
B

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
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Lebanon, PA
Cranbrook bikes have their flaws and quirks like any department store bike nowadays, but weak axles aint on the list. 6'4, 220? Buddy, I'm 6'2 and almost 3 bills. Never had an axle break on me. And I've been using a cranbrook wheel on my custom bike since I built it almost 4 months ago. It's now got a Shimano coaster brake assembly, but that's only been added recently. If Huffy axles were known to fail, I might consider that your size has something to do with it. But they aren't, not even on motorized Huffy's. My personal opinion, either you got the one bad axle in a million, or you did something wrong and that caused the axle to break. If you removed the brake shoes, that would cause the axle to bend and possibly break. Any sort of improper hub assembly could also cause an axle failure. And there is nothing wrong with being a new builder and making a mistake. We've all been there, it happens. I'm on my 3rd bike (first custom) and even though I tried very hard, I did not built it 100% right from the start. I made a few mistakes. My most recent mistake was improperly repairing my carburetor petcock, which caused a gas flow issue and stalling/fuel starvation which caused me to miss work today. A rookie mistake, and I've been working with motorized bikes for 4 years now. The important thing is to know the difference between defective parts and user mistakes, so that you learn from your mistakes. Otherwise, you're bound to make more.
 
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