HT bicycle engine Odd sticky clutch

Hey guys, I'm having major issues with my clutch.

The symptoms
When I pull the clutch lever, the first 30-40 degrees of the actuator arm feel like free-play, even though this distance IS enough to disengage the clutch nearly to the point of free-rolling. THEN, when I pull the clutch in all the way, and then release it, the actuator arm only returns to where the free play was, leaving my clutch semi-engaged, allowing tons of slip and I burned up all my clutch pads yesterday.

This is becoming a real pain

What I tried
I've tried pulling the clutch cable guide out and tightening the clutch screw using the small flat screwdriver and push-the-bike-forward method. No go, actuator still wont return and clutch still slips

The only way I can make the clutch semi usable is by using the bandaid fix, which is simply tightening up the flower nut to get the pressure where I need it, but this also shortens the actuator arm angle, not allowing a full disengagement at some point (I'm not there yet).

Can anyone help me out here? The only thing I can think of is getting a new cable, but the clutch spring should be more than strong enough to yank it back anyway. It's not bound in any way, it's on a long curve with no sharp bends.

Re: HT Odd sticky clutch

Kioshk said:

I suspect that either your bucking-bar or the corner of your clutch-arm axle (where the half-moon is) is worn down . Have a look-see. A worn half-moon issue can usually be mediated by manufacturing and installing a slightly longer bucking-bar down from a drill.

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I actually ended up using a drill bit, perhaps thats part of the issue, perhaps greasing up the clutch would help? Like I need it to return completely. The drill bit is only tenths of a millimeter shorter than the original, so I could actually put the original back in

Re: HT Odd sticky clutch

2door said:

Bucking bar length is critical. If the one you made from a drill bit is shorter that's part of your problem.
Do as Kioshk suggested and read through the clutch adjusting procedures posted many times here. Also the moving/contacting parts, cam, bucking bar and ball bearing should be well lubricated with a good grade of bearing grease. The cam and bucking bar can be smoothed with a Dremel sanding disc to take off any roughness where they contact.

Try this> http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22726

Tom

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I actually mention in my first post that I tightened the main spring with no luck. the retention ring is well within view of the cable retainer now (it wasnt when I started). There is no slack left in the cable, and the flower nut is *almost* to the point where the actuator arm will touch the retainer at full swing. I'll try the bucking bar, because of their size, even 0.5mm can easily cause a huge shift in the angle of the actuator.

Re: HT Odd sticky clutch

Update: Turns out I was "tightening" the main spring the wrong way... hahaha. Oh well, I corrected it, but I cut my cable so short (because it kept fraying) I had to keep the flower nut pretty far in, but its working again. Went to Canadian Tire and got some spray-on white grease and sprayed that in as well as well as tightening the clutch spring. Only cost $5, but I probably could have gotten away without it.

I thought it was stick the screwdriver into the screw notches and push the bike forward. Then I looked up my post in Norm's clutch adjustment guide and saw that I actually found that you push the bike BACKWARD to tighten the clutch, but forgot.