Need help trouble shooting

GoldenMotor.com

Super

New Member
Sep 19, 2011
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Texas
I was going on a long trip before Christmas, about 20 miles. I've done this trip many times before. About half way through the trip my motor just died. It may have jolted, popped, sputtered, or something just for a sec, right before it died. It was hard to tell. When it died, it just died, like it was no longer getting a spark. When I came to a complete stop, the motor seemed like it locked up on me. My back wheel was froze in place, even with the clutch pulled in. Luckily I was close to a store and called a friend to pick me up. When I got the bike home, I started to remove the chain and the drive sprocket turned freely. The wheel was no longer froze, if it ever really was. Still not sure on this. I seem to remember that when I locked up my motor before, the wheel still turned with the clutch pulled in. So not sure whats going on here. Well I put the chain back on and tried starting it, absolutely nothing happened. It was like it was not getting spark or gas. So I read the post on how to test the CDI coil. According the the readings I got, the coil should have been bad. The reading of the black wire to plug wire was 6.3k ohm. The reading of the black and blue wires was 8.69 M ohms. And the blue wire to plug wire started off as 11M ohms and kept rising till it O/L. I assume O/L on my tester means Over Load. So I bought a new CDI coil and installed it last week. But it made no difference. I tried pumping it for a bit and checking the spark plug to see if it was getting fuel. When I took the spark plug out there was a clear drop of liquid in between the spark leads. It defiantly didn't look like gas, so I can only assume it was water. I took the motor off the bike and took the top end piece off. It looked like water was all in the cylinder and the crank case. Not a whole lot but enough to cause rust to start forming in the crank case. I also check the cylinder walls and the piston. I can see absolutely no scaring on both.

So my question is this: Why and how is there water in my engine and what should I do now to get my motor going again? Do you think my magneto is bad now? Do I need to try to open it up even further to remove the rust? I have never gone that deep before. I did figure I'd let it sit in my house, upside down, where its nice and dry and let any remaining water drip and evaporate out, but is this enough? And whats to prevent it from happening again? I don't know where the water came from. Unless its condensation from letting it sit up for a few weeks without running it. If this is the case the water my just be a secondary thing. Not my original problem. I'm a little lost from here and any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
You never said if you confirmed you have ignition, only that you had changed components. Remove the spark plug and lay it against the cylinder head fins with the plug wire connected, then roll the bike forward at a fast pace, clutch engaged while holding the plug firmly against the engine. See if the plug fires (sparks). If it doesn't, start checking the wiring connections and make sure the white wire isn't touching anything. You might also try disconnecting the kill switch for this test.

As far as rust in the crankcase, are you sure it's rust? The connecting rod and sometimes even the crankshaft/counterbalances are covered with a rust colored coating that has fooled people in the past, thinking their engines are rusty inside.
If you believe you actually saw a drop of water on the spark plug electrode, then there's the possibility that you have water in your fuel. Drain and flush the fuel tank and start with a batch of fresh gasoline/oil and make sure fuel is flowing to the carburetor.

Also confirm that the choke plate hasn't come loose and closed off the air inlet to the carburetor.

Rear wheel locking and fails to turn with clutch disengaged could be a sign that the chain was too loose and bunching up at the engine drive sprocket. Adjust chain tension so you have 1/2 to 3/4" slack, no more or less, on the top chain run with the chain tight against a compression stroke.

Try these things and get back to us with your findings.

Tom
 
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Super

New Member
Sep 19, 2011
39
0
0
Texas
I found a big chunk taken out of the bottom end piece, right behind the chain. Looks like the chain got wedge in there and tore out a chunk. I'm thinking the water is condensation from the hole. Now I know what lock the wheel up. Well, I just ordered a new bottom end piece. Let me try that.

Not sure if it was getting spark, but I did put my finger down there and got a good shock. With a new plug. The motor is off my bike now and I turned the crankshaft by hand while my meter was hooked up to the magneto. I got a good 3volts just by my hand. on the black wire.