That sounds normal. New chains stretch out a lot at first, but then they slow way down. Be sure and spray it often with chain lube. It's also normal that chains don't stretch evenly.
can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!
- Thread starter Norman
- Start date
I agree, but if you still have problems I suggest you get a good chain (if you haven't already) from someone like Tractor Supply. And a tensioner If you need or want to use stock tensioner, remove it, drill a hole and tap for either a machine screw or a set screw. so it will not move.
Agreed w the above...
What comes with these mab kits, may look, and feel like a 'chain', but it's really just a close facsimile of what a chain should really be. lol
Best thing to do is replace it with a quality domestic chain, for reliability, and safety.
My chain has come off twice, and locked up the back wheel each time.
Cheap thrills! NOT!!!
It is just as bad, or worse, when the tensioner arm comes loose, because the chain will pull it into the spokes, with the expected results.
Are you running a rag joint?
It is a most valuable improvement to these mabs to replace that with a clamshell sprocket adapter because they tend to shift in their mounting position making it impossible to properly adjust the chain.
...check your chain tension in one position, then rotate the wheel 180 and check again... chances are it will be different. In the least, this is a horse-power thief! and as little as we begin with, we need it all ! lol
I am, so far, pleased with the Liquid Wrench brand chain lube, when applied as directed. It is the least expensive chain lube on the market, and here in CA is available at Autozone chain stores.
Be cautious removing links ! lol
...all of a sudden you'll find too many have been removed and u will need to run a 1/2 link to get going again! lol
I removed two links from my stock chain, and that was it...
IMO. best to re-position the tensioner before removing any more links... at least try that first.
Best
rc
What comes with these mab kits, may look, and feel like a 'chain', but it's really just a close facsimile of what a chain should really be. lol
Best thing to do is replace it with a quality domestic chain, for reliability, and safety.
My chain has come off twice, and locked up the back wheel each time.
Cheap thrills! NOT!!!
It is just as bad, or worse, when the tensioner arm comes loose, because the chain will pull it into the spokes, with the expected results.
Are you running a rag joint?
It is a most valuable improvement to these mabs to replace that with a clamshell sprocket adapter because they tend to shift in their mounting position making it impossible to properly adjust the chain.
...check your chain tension in one position, then rotate the wheel 180 and check again... chances are it will be different. In the least, this is a horse-power thief! and as little as we begin with, we need it all ! lol
I am, so far, pleased with the Liquid Wrench brand chain lube, when applied as directed. It is the least expensive chain lube on the market, and here in CA is available at Autozone chain stores.
Be cautious removing links ! lol
...all of a sudden you'll find too many have been removed and u will need to run a 1/2 link to get going again! lol
I removed two links from my stock chain, and that was it...
IMO. best to re-position the tensioner before removing any more links... at least try that first.
Best
rc
I am using the stock 415 chain and rag joint. I may replace the chain as you guys suggested in the future but if it doesn't stretch anymore then I'll keep it around for now. I haven't had any problems with it. In the very beginning before I got the motor going the chain fell between the spokes and the sprocket once and was pretty wedged in there but 10 minutes later I got it out with no damage. Ever since then it has been pretty cooperative
Luckily, the rear wheel on my bike is I'd say 1mm within being a perfect match between the hub and the sprocket. So all I did was slap that puppy on the wheel and cranked her down. As true as can be and any pull won't affect it (whew!) I say this because I went maybe 5 miles with the very loose chain and it didn't fall off. Although I guess 5 miles isn't a whole lot. If I could get a sprocket without the middle drilled out I could use the drill press in the garage to perfectly drill a center piece that matches any hub.
But now I Have locktite on everything so it should be good. My chain also has no masterlink as I figured it was a weak link to the chain. I just used the BGF chain breaker which works like a charm for getting a pin out. I then used a small anvil next to the 415 chain to hammer the pins back in.
Anyways, thanks for the tips on it! I'll keep adjusting it as I go and replace it soon hopefully. Didn't get to bring it down last weekend )= hoping to do it this weekend.
Luckily, the rear wheel on my bike is I'd say 1mm within being a perfect match between the hub and the sprocket. So all I did was slap that puppy on the wheel and cranked her down. As true as can be and any pull won't affect it (whew!) I say this because I went maybe 5 miles with the very loose chain and it didn't fall off. Although I guess 5 miles isn't a whole lot. If I could get a sprocket without the middle drilled out I could use the drill press in the garage to perfectly drill a center piece that matches any hub.
But now I Have locktite on everything so it should be good. My chain also has no masterlink as I figured it was a weak link to the chain. I just used the BGF chain breaker which works like a charm for getting a pin out. I then used a small anvil next to the 415 chain to hammer the pins back in.
Anyways, thanks for the tips on it! I'll keep adjusting it as I go and replace it soon hopefully. Didn't get to bring it down last weekend )= hoping to do it this weekend.
Well it sounds like ur doing fine, Rm.
and sounds like u got a good shop available for doing stuff, too.
Good deal!
If ur confident with ur drill press, I guess you could run a bead on the inside hole of the sprocket, then open it up to the precise size you wish.
there's a few methods of centering that sprocket over the hub that are described elsewhere. I used 3 pieces of wire insulation, bent in a U shape, and left 'em in there after I tightened up the rag joint parts. It worked ok, but I don't really get far from the barn on long runs.
Right now, at this time, my back wheel is kinda making some grungy feeling noises AND the chain is beginning to strum a bit more. I've got to take it apart to inspect the wheel bearings and true up the sprocket again, before a problem occurs out about town.
A hub adapter has got to be the best upgrade for a chinagirl kit I can think of.
THEN, you can get a pipe and carb and all the other kool stuff !
Personally, I never had a destruct prob with a master link. Ever.
but I've heard tell that a continuous chain might be superior.
Best
rc
and sounds like u got a good shop available for doing stuff, too.
Good deal!
If ur confident with ur drill press, I guess you could run a bead on the inside hole of the sprocket, then open it up to the precise size you wish.
there's a few methods of centering that sprocket over the hub that are described elsewhere. I used 3 pieces of wire insulation, bent in a U shape, and left 'em in there after I tightened up the rag joint parts. It worked ok, but I don't really get far from the barn on long runs.
Right now, at this time, my back wheel is kinda making some grungy feeling noises AND the chain is beginning to strum a bit more. I've got to take it apart to inspect the wheel bearings and true up the sprocket again, before a problem occurs out about town.
A hub adapter has got to be the best upgrade for a chinagirl kit I can think of.
THEN, you can get a pipe and carb and all the other kool stuff !
Personally, I never had a destruct prob with a master link. Ever.
but I've heard tell that a continuous chain might be superior.
Best
rc
Thanks Rusty. I didn't use the master link primarily because I couldn't figure out how to get the darn thing off without breaking it. The hub adapter does seem great and is a must if you use the bike a lot I'm sure (and don't have a hub match like mine). I can't wait for a new pipe and carb when it gets broken in though!
is the retaining bolt for the small bevel gear reverse threaded?
after the initial ride, upon detailed inspection of all components, i noticed the small bevel gear had set itself slightly crooked. The engine still runs great, but i think a hard start condition has been the outcome of the situation as the gears mesh improperly. please give any ideas on how to remove this bolt & gear(i have the gear removal tool).
i also plan on replacing most of the original hardware with stronger 5/16 studs because 1 ex. & 1 in. stud have stripped in different situations(intake is inside the cylinder&exhaust is inside the nut).
also the 2 front motor mounts snapped off at the block.
very dissatisfied with the integrity of the studs,
but the motor has been great,so im going to upgrade steel & remove the innertube pieces used between the frame&engine.
after the initial ride, upon detailed inspection of all components, i noticed the small bevel gear had set itself slightly crooked. The engine still runs great, but i think a hard start condition has been the outcome of the situation as the gears mesh improperly. please give any ideas on how to remove this bolt & gear(i have the gear removal tool).
i also plan on replacing most of the original hardware with stronger 5/16 studs because 1 ex. & 1 in. stud have stripped in different situations(intake is inside the cylinder&exhaust is inside the nut).
also the 2 front motor mounts snapped off at the block.
very dissatisfied with the integrity of the studs,
but the motor has been great,so im going to upgrade steel & remove the innertube pieces used between the frame&engine.
Hey Gav, IIRC the screw for the pinion gear was standard right hand rotation, because the engine runs anti-clockwise, looking at it from that side.
If it's running well and there's not a whole bunch of metal shards in the location, it's probably ok. Perhaps just an odd casting for the gear making it look stoopid???
Among the problems with the chinagirls is that there is insufficient metal to the castings where the bolts are tapped in the cases.
Be cautious when setting out to over-bore them because there may not be sufficient stock present for a larger stud, or bolt size !
...thing about it, though, a new motor is possibly cheaper than buying the drill bits, and taps, and especially taking the time to do the labor! Like many things these days, they are kinda meant to be throw-aways...
but I can understand, if u got one that is running really sweet, it's hard to give up on it for just a few flaws.
Good luck
rc
If it's running well and there's not a whole bunch of metal shards in the location, it's probably ok. Perhaps just an odd casting for the gear making it look stoopid???
Among the problems with the chinagirls is that there is insufficient metal to the castings where the bolts are tapped in the cases.
Be cautious when setting out to over-bore them because there may not be sufficient stock present for a larger stud, or bolt size !
...thing about it, though, a new motor is possibly cheaper than buying the drill bits, and taps, and especially taking the time to do the labor! Like many things these days, they are kinda meant to be throw-aways...
but I can understand, if u got one that is running really sweet, it's hard to give up on it for just a few flaws.
Good luck
rc
thanX gutter rider,,ill keep ya posted on how the new motor mounts come out,,as soon as i have te garage to work on it in..hah till then,,pushin around lotsa extra metal.. ppph suxx
hey i need help on a way to remove links at home? i dont want to go get the tool to do it if i dont have to. any ideas would be cool
In a chain? You can take a punch, like a nail set, and punch out the pen. A suitable tool to use would be a vice so the pen will come out.
When you disengaged the clutch (like it's in neutral) you are most likely at a idle. Chances are that the clutch flywheel is not moving away from the clutch pads enough, and drag on them.
there's REALLY some tools yah gotta have to work on the mabs...
a chain breaker is not used often, yet starting from scratch, if you went out to buy a hammer, a punch, and a socket to set in on when driving the pin out, you might as well just get the $12 chain breaker which works better.
...I prefer to file the end of the pin just a little before driving it out...
it comes out smoother.
Your clutch release will work a bit easier if you use one of the Alf clutch roller mods.
EZ to build, or you can buy one from him and probably save gas dollars tracking down the parts, and time...
Best
rc
a chain breaker is not used often, yet starting from scratch, if you went out to buy a hammer, a punch, and a socket to set in on when driving the pin out, you might as well just get the $12 chain breaker which works better.
...I prefer to file the end of the pin just a little before driving it out...
it comes out smoother.
Your clutch release will work a bit easier if you use one of the Alf clutch roller mods.
EZ to build, or you can buy one from him and probably save gas dollars tracking down the parts, and time...
Best
rc
thanks rusty and al
prolly gonna go get the darn lil chain tool lol i have a hammer and something i was using as a punch but its not goin so well and it only takes a few times of smashing my thumb when i go alright screw it lets get the tool that takes a min to use instead of ten mins smashing fingers lol
have a good day guys! hopefully gonna get to go for my first motorized bicycle ride. hopefully it wont get cut short by anything.... there is bound to be something though sooner or later hahah
-Tony
prolly gonna go get the darn lil chain tool lol i have a hammer and something i was using as a punch but its not goin so well and it only takes a few times of smashing my thumb when i go alright screw it lets get the tool that takes a min to use instead of ten mins smashing fingers lol
have a good day guys! hopefully gonna get to go for my first motorized bicycle ride. hopefully it wont get cut short by anything.... there is bound to be something though sooner or later hahah
-Tony
I agree with the investment of a chain breaker tool, but you wanted another option. I myself use a grinder (bench) although I have 3 different sizes, and a punch.
yea thanks for the try lol i searched last night and found a few diffrent ways i tried at home. but im doin my build in apartment living room!! ahaha so just getting the tool will save me alot of work haha.
-Tony
-Tony
I got the chain breaker from BGF. Works like a charm. You need a method of putting the chain back together. Then again that's probably what the masterlink does, I just didn't bother figuring it out and have no masterlink.. Anyways..
Can the rubber clamp eventually cause your rear wheel to become untrue? Making your sprocket look warped as you turn the wheel. If that makes sense
Can the rubber clamp eventually cause your rear wheel to become untrue? Making your sprocket look warped as you turn the wheel. If that makes sense
i got a 4.95 chain tool kit from wally world. will prolly brake sooner or later but cant beat five bucks lol
if you got the 415 dirtbike chain, the wlly tool will break when u try to use it.
id spend the 20 bucks on a legit one from a bicycle shop.
mines lasted 4 years and has been used on dirtbikes 4 wheelers motorcycles and mbs
id spend the 20 bucks on a legit one from a bicycle shop.
mines lasted 4 years and has been used on dirtbikes 4 wheelers motorcycles and mbs
