SBP new 2 Stroke Shift Kit

GoldenMotor.com

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
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Phoenix,AZ
I see it,,,another thought ,,a double piviot mount for the front of the motor would be more secure and easy to use,when adjusting motor height for the crank chain,,simply loosen the bolts and mount bolts ,as the motor was adjusted up in the back the front mount would take on the shape to fill the space and then simply tighten the bolts
Good point corgi.

Personally I have a real aversion to a single bolt through the fame front mount as much as my dislike for drive side tensioner's, so shimming the two prong front mounting blocks would be preferable to me, but if I can't do that I agree, a simple single adjustable front bolt option would be handy in the kit, kind of like the little 'motor holder upper' bolt to the frame in the old kits.

I am looking forward to my next shifter build ;-}
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
I STILL can't get an accurate MPG number on my 3-Speed Luxury Ride, it is almost like it uses no gas at all. Heck, I can't even remember when I last put gas in it, but I think I am still on break-in mix!
When it does need gas again I'll just use rich oil mix again. Better safe than sorry.

I mentioned it before but I'll mention it again.
There is an art to riding an MB with a shift kit, gears or not, and it may not seem as silly to put one on a simple coaster bike without gears as it sounds.

On a 'standard installl' you have 2 chains, which in itself is a problem for most.
Then there is the drag of the motor chain always pulling even with the clutch in, which itself has drag,
Handy heading downhill with poor brakes, but otherwise undesirable to me.

The riding trick I have learned with a Jackshaft is you can just idle and not loose any speed due to any drag from anything.
That means you can coast quietly at idle for way more than think you could.

Yes, the motor sill turns the jackshaft chain at idle speed but the rear wheel just spins on it's own as idle power is not enough to even engage the drive.

For a No Gear bike, you'll know when have to pull in the clutch or give it gas, and most likely have a hard time starting with pedal power only if you don't gear it down.

But for bikes with gears here is a tip.

Think ahead as to what gear you will want ahead of when you throttle back up.
Personal Experience Examples:

On my 3-speed hub shift I am generally out of 1st in 100 feet and go to second.
Then, until I know I need stop or be really cautious, I go from back and forth between 2nd and 3rd.depending on how fast I want to go.

Though your jackshaft will still turn your pedal can a bit at idle RPM, a quick pedal makes for a smooth gear change under just your power to the gear you want the next time you hit the gas.

And about hitting the gas full throttle after coasting awhile (the art part)...
Bring up the throttle slowly until it's RPM's catch up to the drives without a catastrophic sudden stress to the whole drive train.

In my case I was up to about 12 or so MPH in 2nd and wanted to so off and see if I could pop wheelie.
I shifted to 1st at idle and opened her up.
The motor pretty much got to top RPM's and then slammed into play in the hub with enough of a jolt to snap the chain.

The new heavy duty Z chain during in 'dumb moments' I may have in the future, but unlike the automatic tranny's in your car, you need to learn you bikes speed/gear ration, and just ease into shifting.

Hope that helps.