I'm guessing that since it's a REALLY small engine with no battery, that it's a 6v...
I looked, but haven't found anything on line about it.
Last edited:
Beefed up ignition??
- Thread starter Venice Motor Bikes
- Start date
I'm guessing that since it's a REALLY small engine with no battery, that it's a 6v...
I looked, but haven't found anything on line about it.
He has not had the chance to look at it yet. I'll give him a few more day's.
I was told about NCY¤d¸³¡«~¾÷¨®¹s¥ó»s³y§åµo
I took a quick look but have not had the time to really see what they have.
I was told about NCY¤d¸³¡«~¾÷¨®¹s¥ó»s³y§åµo
I took a quick look but have not had the time to really see what they have.
Update...I wired up the new XR50 CDI & coil with the new wiring harness to my engine... NOTHING, NO SPARK!!! 
I'm sure that the new CDI uses a separate magnetic trigger to fire it, & a stator to power it up.
Our current mag-coils do both off of one wire!
I found a small mag-trigger & stator for a XR50 on Ebay, but it's still too big to fit in the side of our engines... (modify?)
I'll keep looking!
I'm sure that the new CDI uses a separate magnetic trigger to fire it, & a stator to power it up.
Our current mag-coils do both off of one wire!
I found a small mag-trigger & stator for a XR50 on Ebay, but it's still too big to fit in the side of our engines... (modify?)
I'll keep looking!
Heres a pic of the XR50 part that I found on ebay... The back plate is 4.5 inches across.
I was thinking that maybe the back plate could be cut down to fit in our engines?
I really think this part will work if I can make it fit into the engine and get the timing set...
Any thoughts??
I was thinking that maybe the back plate could be cut down to fit in our engines?
I really think this part will work if I can make it fit into the engine and get the timing set...
Any thoughts??
Last edited:
If you could get it to fit, and use the XRCDI, we are going to 12 volt right? Everybody I have talked to say's the XR is 12 volt.
Got my mag back.......John (MSD dealer) said nothing can be done to improve it. He used smaller wire on the coil winding and bigger wire. He said the smaller wire does improve the juice a very small amount. But not enough to improve performance.
If it will fit VB, yeah, all we have to do is figure the timing. If we can get it to fire on every stroke, and not every other stroke, we should be okay.
Got my mag back.......John (MSD dealer) said nothing can be done to improve it. He used smaller wire on the coil winding and bigger wire. He said the smaller wire does improve the juice a very small amount. But not enough to improve performance.
If it will fit VB, yeah, all we have to do is figure the timing. If we can get it to fire on every stroke, and not every other stroke, we should be okay.
Attachments
I think the way they work is... that they DO fire on every stroke, just every other spark is a dead spark on the exaust stroke!
Your right, I dont know what I was thinking. I'm going to Phoenix Wed. for work. They have a huge motorcycle junk yard, I'm going to go dig around and see what I can find. Hopefully I can find a XR50, it would be alot easier to see what you are working with. I also hope to find some 50cc scooters and see if anything will work.I think the way they work is... that they DO fire on every stroke, just every other spark is a dead spark on the exaust stroke!
By the way, I just used the mag my friend looked at. It dont work now.... I dont know what he did and dont see why there is no juice. Maybe changing the coil winding is not a good ideal
I think the set up I found on ebay is a better bet... The original equipment on a xr50 is a stator & a big "bell" magnet, that I'm pretty sure wouldn't fit in the engine...
The ebay one is much smaller, & the back plate can be cut. (I hope)
I'm thinking about just buying it and praying I can make it all work.
The ebay one is much smaller, & the back plate can be cut. (I hope)
I'm thinking about just buying it and praying I can make it all work.
Anybody doing your timing will need a degree wheel.
I found this place that gives you five diferent sizes of wheels. Just download, print, and cut. Saves 20 buck's. I made mine out of sheetmetal.
Motorcycle Degree Wheel
I found this place that gives you five diferent sizes of wheels. Just download, print, and cut. Saves 20 buck's. I made mine out of sheetmetal.
Motorcycle Degree Wheel
Last edited:
I haven't given up on this... I just have a lot of other projects going at the moment!
If anyone else still has any more ideas, feel free to post em!
If anyone else still has any more ideas, feel free to post em!
I've kinda given up. I've been off for a week but I needed to catch up on thing's around the house that I have put off way to long. I'll get back to it when I get a little more enthused. I've been just enjoying my MB just they way it is.
JP7 M/cycle Trike Wiring.
Cut/paste from above;
Electronic ignition.
Look for corrosion or damage. Keep all the wiring as standard wherever possible and never rebuild any wiring without making notes of where each wire goes and what it does before repairing it. If this is followed, then simple replacement or lengthening, shortening of the wires, or replacement of the multi pin connector is all that should be needed.
Even the computer unit of a fuel injected V12 trike can be rewired without hassle if taken carefully.
Unless you have specific details from the correct manual for your bike, then the electronic ignition can only be checked when the engine is running. Check the quality of the spark, and check any electronic advance if fitted, by using a strobe when running.
An otherwise good electronic ignition or regulator/rectifier unit may succumb to corrosion and the little flat blades on the unit may break off, leaving only a small piece visible. If this happens, then try cutting away some of the plastic around the remains of the pin and then solder a good piece of solder to the stub. Then solder a replacement wire to the visible part. Fit the multipin connector on these wires soldered to each connection so that can then fit the wiring loom as usual. It is worth sealing the repaired connections to the unit with epoxy resin to prevent further corrosion and to give some protection from the wires breaking away should the soldered joins be marginal. A similar epoxy or silicone bathroom sealant approach should be taken for ISDE and similar heavy abuse systems, plus a secondary quick replace backup unit. If using silicone sealant, a clear version will allows visual examination over the following years.
For most two strokes, the electronic ignition does not need an advance and if connected appropriately, then a Honda C90 CDI unit will work quite happily on many machines. This is regularly employed on an NS125 and Yam RD/TZR engines, and for most other similar bikes including mopeds, scooters and motocross. Likewise many other systems. The drawing opposite shows a basic set-up.
If a mechanical advance and retard is used on the bike, then almost any CDI will work. A points system can be upgraded using the pulser unit in place of the points, with the advance retard cam shaped to a square edge with a small airgap between this and the pulser unit. As the cam passes by, the magnetic field in the pulser is interrupted and may often work the 'bodged' CDI system using easily available scrap components from common machines. Some cams are magnetic, so may not work on some machines, or need to epoxy a small shaped magnet.
All systems supply the same spark across a spark plug. There is no real magic. Little is lost in trying to fix, bodge or re-engineer an already failed ignition system.
See also authors website with 'A simple alternative electronic ignition for motorcycles', describing how to use the above Honda C90 CDI unit on a typical two stroke. The only problem with a recent TZR was needing to reverse the pulser wires to get the correct ignition timing and an alternative exhaust valve controller.
Electronic ignition pulsers (pickups) which pick up the crank position, need a small air gap between the pulser and the crank or flywheel marker. As this is often magnetised, iron dust may be picked up and cause problems. Always clean and make the airgap as intended by the manufacturer. Half a millimetre approximate gap if no data available. For those refining their timing, the airgap can be slightly adjusted.
Cut/paste from above;
Electronic ignition.
Look for corrosion or damage. Keep all the wiring as standard wherever possible and never rebuild any wiring without making notes of where each wire goes and what it does before repairing it. If this is followed, then simple replacement or lengthening, shortening of the wires, or replacement of the multi pin connector is all that should be needed.
Even the computer unit of a fuel injected V12 trike can be rewired without hassle if taken carefully.
Unless you have specific details from the correct manual for your bike, then the electronic ignition can only be checked when the engine is running. Check the quality of the spark, and check any electronic advance if fitted, by using a strobe when running.
An otherwise good electronic ignition or regulator/rectifier unit may succumb to corrosion and the little flat blades on the unit may break off, leaving only a small piece visible. If this happens, then try cutting away some of the plastic around the remains of the pin and then solder a good piece of solder to the stub. Then solder a replacement wire to the visible part. Fit the multipin connector on these wires soldered to each connection so that can then fit the wiring loom as usual. It is worth sealing the repaired connections to the unit with epoxy resin to prevent further corrosion and to give some protection from the wires breaking away should the soldered joins be marginal. A similar epoxy or silicone bathroom sealant approach should be taken for ISDE and similar heavy abuse systems, plus a secondary quick replace backup unit. If using silicone sealant, a clear version will allows visual examination over the following years.
For most two strokes, the electronic ignition does not need an advance and if connected appropriately, then a Honda C90 CDI unit will work quite happily on many machines. This is regularly employed on an NS125 and Yam RD/TZR engines, and for most other similar bikes including mopeds, scooters and motocross. Likewise many other systems. The drawing opposite shows a basic set-up.
If a mechanical advance and retard is used on the bike, then almost any CDI will work. A points system can be upgraded using the pulser unit in place of the points, with the advance retard cam shaped to a square edge with a small airgap between this and the pulser unit. As the cam passes by, the magnetic field in the pulser is interrupted and may often work the 'bodged' CDI system using easily available scrap components from common machines. Some cams are magnetic, so may not work on some machines, or need to epoxy a small shaped magnet.
All systems supply the same spark across a spark plug. There is no real magic. Little is lost in trying to fix, bodge or re-engineer an already failed ignition system.
See also authors website with 'A simple alternative electronic ignition for motorcycles', describing how to use the above Honda C90 CDI unit on a typical two stroke. The only problem with a recent TZR was needing to reverse the pulser wires to get the correct ignition timing and an alternative exhaust valve controller.
Electronic ignition pulsers (pickups) which pick up the crank position, need a small air gap between the pulser and the crank or flywheel marker. As this is often magnetised, iron dust may be picked up and cause problems. Always clean and make the airgap as intended by the manufacturer. Half a millimetre approximate gap if no data available. For those refining their timing, the airgap can be slightly adjusted.
Okay guys I coudn't find a offical good wire when mine quit. All the right stores were closed. I looked over my junk at home found a stripe of mega cable for bass car amplifyers. It twisted into my cdi perfectly. Next I of course used dyelectric grease at the right places, and sodered my spark plug boot. last I used black rtf silicone at the cdi then made an antivibration brace with two small hose clamps and split peice of tubing so vibrationes coudn't claime my cdi with lots of well placed cable ties. sorry about the some of the miss spells! probly be my trade mark hope this helps!
Pulsestar spark plug they have the ultimute light of the sun with this gig. check the web sight sorry I don't Know how to post it. they make a plug in in line capasiter get up for our smaller profile plugs. the currant plugs out there are made for cars. Has anybody lite the sun in one of these chinas and got away with it I'am very tempted, gonna go thicker on the two cycle oil. I think probly have to break one of these babies to find out! Well worth the fun
I know a few guy's at the track using Pulse Star in there modified's. Some tossed them out and said never again..... Other's swear by them
Attachments
Same old story....More power....More spark....better MPG.... I think they will end up just like SplitFire, in the trash. 
You guys are no joke.
Somebody make this work please and sell me the pieces I need to make my motorbike super duper!
Somebody make this work please and sell me the pieces I need to make my motorbike super duper!
