port matching kit ???

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rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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what do you guys think if there where a kit available that could port match your intake and exhaust ?

it would be machined out of 1in thick aluminum bar stock and be an adapter to go on your motor over your ports before bolting your intake and exhaust back on and it would port match them for you!

all it would be is a 1 in thick al block cnc milled to match the intake ID and one milled to match the exhaust header ID then the other side of the 1 in block would be cnc milled to match the intake and the other the exhaust port.

the kit would provide you with longer high grade hex bolts to replace your cheap studs and a small sheet of gasket paper with the pattern already drawn on it for u to cut out and use. it would make all 4 gaskets.

all you would have to do is unbolt your exhaust and header tube then remove your exhaust and header studs, then cut out your gaskets and attach the adapters to the motor with your intake and exhaust.

and boom instant port match with a smooth 1 inch transition !!! the exta inch on your intake will help low end power and increase intake tracct volume and the extra inch on your exhaust will help take off power by moving the exhaust back a little

does this sound like a good idea ?

the thought came to me .... what if people who dont ave a dremal or do not know how to do this stuff want to port match there motor ? what do they do ? well a 1 inch spacer that port matches your intake to the intake port for you would help and the same for the exhaust should be true too right ? they should be fairly easy to make and pretty cheap to since i already have accses to 2 milling machines and 3 lathes !!! my dad lol i could make them easy

is this something people would want ? let me know i am going to make them for myself antway since its nearly impossable to correctly port math this motor without some kind of thick transistion material to make the shape change ...

pics
 

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rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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exhaust side

now theas could be available in differant hole diamiter for differant intake sizes and exhaust header sizes verry easy all it would take is a simple second on the miller or drill press to enlarge the hole to meet needs but the port matched side would be programed for the standard intake nd standard exhaust, if you did cutom port work its up to you to perfectly match the port side to your aplication, but in general they would be a pretty damn close match do stock porting !
 

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crassius

crassius

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Not sure that the small carb & exhaust would benefit from having the mounting hole larger.
 
rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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crassius said:
Not sure that the small carb & exhaust would benefit from having the mounting hole larger.
Click to expand...
mounting hole for the sock carb would be the same size ... all you do is add the block to port match it to your motor....

one side matches your sock intake and one side matches the intake port with a smooth 1 in transition between the two... no more circle intake bolted to a square port

the benifit would be faster smoother flowing fuel, a longer intake tract and no more turbulance in your intake all of wich make more low end power and midrange
 
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crassius

crassius

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could be, but I did one once with my dremel and saw no diff - between piston chopping off flow & bottom end spitting back, I'd guess turbulence is unavoidable
 
2door

2door

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Make them, put them on ebay and include the words, speed, race, high performance or billet, and people will will buy it. it. It doesn't have to work or increase horsepower, just as long as it sounds like it will.

Tom
 
rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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2door said:
Make them, put them on ebay and include the words, speed, race, high performance or billet, and people will will buy it. it. It doesn't have to work or increase horsepower, just as long as it sounds like it will.

Tom
Click to expand...
lol that is the most true thing i have ever heard.......

i want to make on and try it out first if it does nothing ... well it ends there... i like my reputation
 
rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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bairdco said:
Even if the exhaust didn't show any increased power benifits, a spacer would help with pedal clearance on almost every cruiser. i've made a few myself so i wouldn't have to bend the pipe to clear the frame.
Click to expand...
this is true and i have also found something similar to my idie ... jnm motors makes a exgaust header spacer with cooling fins ...it also is port matched its the same exact thing i want to do acsept mine would come with an intake spacer as well and extra long bolts aand gaskets .. mine would be square to make it easy to manufactiure and cut on cost also cooling fins could be milled into bolth as well
 
rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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ok for real here i am actually making this thing right now as wee speak !!!!

its started as a 3 ft lon 1.5 x 1/8 aluminum bar stock and was cut into 9 4in sections

4 are for the intake and 5 are for the exhaust

the plates will be 4 inch long and seperated by 1.6mm gasket paper or stock exhaust gaskets to seperate them and make the 5 plates like cooling fins

the whole shabang 5 plates gaskets and all will be c clampped together and drilled for the exhaust stud holes then bolted solid together to remove the clamps

then it will be marked to be drilled out for the exhaust header tube id size for a perfect match... drilled all the way through

the first plate that mouts to the motor will be removed and mouted up then marked with a short pencil from the inside of the jug and scribed to match the exhaust port opening perfect

that plate will be removed then ground to port match the echaust port and set back up on the set and bolted back together

now i have a template from port to header showing where to grind out the gutts to the first plate to match the port with a smooth transition !!!

pics in a lil bit .... cutting gaskets ...
 
rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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ok i got a 3ft section of 1.5 x .1250 or 1 1/2 by 1/8 aluminum bar stock and cut it into 9, 4 inch sections

5 of those 9 sections will be spaced appart by thick stock exhaust gaskets to space them out so they will act as 4 inch wide extra cooling fins for the motor and exhaust and extend the exhaust 2inches

4 of then will be spaced out by stock exhaust gaskets and 2 stock intake gaskets (front and back) and used as extra cooling fins for the motor and an intake extentio of 1.5 in

bolth will port match the ports perfectly to the intake and exhaust.

right now they are cut to size and tomorrow i will mark them up and drill out the stud holes and header/intake holes then bolt them together with the gaskets and port match them by grinding out the nessasary material to the first plate where the header/intake mounts.
 

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rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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here are pics of the proper spacing of the finns.

yeh when its done the edges will be milled perfectly flat and rounded to match the motor jug fins.

i am positive this will allow for a perfect port match, also extending the exxhaust 2 in will improve low end power, it will also aid with ccooling having 5 sets of 4 in wide extra cooling fins right on the exhaust port !,

having the intake extended 1.5 will aid in lw end and midrange, also again the 4in wide 4 sets of extra cooling fins mounted right on the jug will help keep it cool !!!, the added bennifit of a perfect port match will aid in over all power and bettter fuel delivery !

its only roughed out right now but its getting late and i am not going to hit up the drill press, miller, and dremal at12am lol

basicly i am going to clamp the bar stock together then drill the stud holes right through all 5 pieces
then bolt it together with the stock exhaust gaskets inbetween and mill the headder diamiter hole right through the whole setup
then marke the exhaust port size on the block and grind right through everything with a high speed di grinder till i get close to where i want the port match to be
switch over to a dremal finnish it up then polish the whole inside nice
chuck it back up in the miller and clean up the ends and put a raidious on the edges to make it look pleaseing to the eye

same for the intake side
 

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rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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it will look like if this were turned sideways and an few inches wider with the header hole matched to the exhaust pipe. and not made from a solid block out of convieniance and cost
 

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SuperDave

SuperDave

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This would be a great idea IF quality control in China was equal to American & Japanese manufacturers, AND if all HT manufacturers in China shared the same specs across the board. However, if you spend enough time researching the forums, you' ll find that that even though many HT motors are similar enough to share parts, there can be (and often is) minute descrepincies in ports lining up. Even from the same factory, there can be differences from one motor to the next, due to sand cast shifting in the smelt/pouring process, which is why experienced builders pull apart brand new motors and clean up casting flash in the ports. Some are worse than others.

While I applaude you for your concept (Bravo! Clap clap clap), I am afraid that port mismatching will be the rule & not the exception in the majority of the installs, which is exactly what your idea is trying to cure. Better to just buy a Dremal and learn to gasket match the ports & manifolds yourself, as each motor may have as much as 0.5 mm difference in port alignment from one motor to the next. And the discrepencies are not just limited to just the jug ports, but the manifolds too. A one inch extension on the intake may not provide any noticable benefit (6-9" seems to work best) but may introduce clearance problems with some frames, and in the case of expansion chambers actually limit top end power by lowering the power band. One inch of extension on an expansion chamber header pipe length lowers top end by about 500 RPM.

So in the end, unless the port extensions are tailored to each individual motor, your potential product may do more to hinder power production as well as make it impossible to fit in certain frames without offset intake manifolds and/or modifications. Sorry, I don't mean to bust your bubble, I'm just calling them as I see them. I'm always looking for ways to squeeze more out of my piston bike with new stuff & ideas, but I recomend you do a little research first, make sure you're not reinventing the wheel when someone else before you has already tried it out first.
 
B

boocher13

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I agree that the discrepancies from engine to engine are so great there is really no way a bolt on spacer would consistently work. I've port matched several auto engines that use side Draft carbs and the only way to guarantee the desired results is by using the head and manifolds that are actually going on the vehicle. As far as a round hole bolting up to a square, I know for certain some triumph heads have a D shaped and some a square port on the head being fed by a round manifold of course. I've actually port matched that setup with noticeable results. Did the same on my China girl.
 
rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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yeh i decided i am going to make this tailored to my motor lol and show how easy it is to do yourself with a drill and dremmal for those that want to try also. i know the extention lowers powerband ... that is what i am after a lw end midrange bike that is still able to rev out if need be .

the finns are desinged to aid in cooling and of course ssince it has to be made by the owner tailored to match there port exactly ! the plates can simply be added or removed to lengthen or shorted the width !!! to help tune the exhaust, every plate you add gives an extra 1/4 in length and adds a 1/8 thick 4 in long cooling fin !!! subtract a finn and you shorten the header by 1/4 in

tunnable exhaust header heat exchanger that ort matches a circle hole to YOUR exhaust port

i mean really all you need is a 3ft piece of aluminum a saw a drill and a dremal.

tadaa !!! tunable port matched heat exchange !

my exhaust port is so large now that it is impossable to correctly port match , as i would have to dremmal right through the welds on the exhaust flange to get it there lol...so a spacer with cooling fins that it tunnable and does the port shape change for me is to me a great idea.

i know it wont fit everyones bike thats why i am showing how easy it is to make it yourself lol and just tailor it to your needs .
 
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rogergendron1

rogergendron1

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i am going on vacation to our famly house in maine so its going to sit clamped together on my coffie table for the weekend lol i will complete it when i get back on mon and tuesday.


more pics to come of the stud drilling and header hole drilling then the dremmaling of the port.

the test fit on the bike so you can see how much cooling aria it adds and what it looks like then a test drive and tunning it by adding or removing some plates !

the 3 rear plates that make the port shape chang will never be changed and may be welded together, the ones after it with the header hole are all the same so they can be added or removed to get the desired tune on the header length


i got the idea by looking at the super trap exhaust on my 3 wheeler !!! it is tunnable by adding or removing plates !

i thought what if there was a header adapter like this thad had plates that acted as cooling fins the more you add the longer your header and lower you power band the more you take away the shorter your header and higher your band, the first 3 are solid and make the shape chaNGE and are tailored to your motor by you, the rest are all the same 7/8 hole so you can add to the three as mutch as you want to lower the band where you need it, if you compensate by shortening your header tube you now have a degre of tunability right at the port where you can fine tune your header length by adding or removing a plate !

its like having a super trap exhaust for a 2 stroke ! the plates are at the port so you can tune hgeader lenght, instead of at the end to tune back preasure like a 4 stroke

just cut your exhaust header back the distance of the width of the first 3 plates and nothing changes, well beside now you are port matched and have 3 extra cooling fins !!! and are capable of tunning lower by adding more !
 
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