Is It Possibe to Disable Coaster Brake Function?

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jfoqueqeq

New Member
May 5, 2011
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XI'AN
I am thinking of doing a cruiser build, but I don't like the coaster brake idea, so I was just wondering if it is possible to open up the coaster hub remove or machine some of the parts inside in order to disable the coaster brake function and make the hub freewheel?

Of course, the bike would have front and rear caliper brakes.

I would also weld on a 5-speed sprocket and add a derailleur, not so much for the gearing it would provide, but to simplify adjusting the chain tension on the engine side, because I do not use the tensioner that comes with the kits. This way I can add/remove chain links, move the rear axle forward or backward to get the engine chain tension correct, and the derailleur would take care of the pedal-side tension.

I have seen new cruiser bikes with the derailleur setup such as the Schwiinn Landmark, but if I find a yardsale treasure, I would have to roll my own.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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I don't know, but am signing on to this thread in hopes of finding out. I have an old three speed Bendix coaster brake hub I would like to try with a shift kit, but doubt it can be taken apart and successfully put back together again with lots of little parts inside. A one speed is pretty simple. What would happen if the coaster brake arm deal was just removed... or the arm part ground off? Anyone know? If it hasn't been tried then I may give it a shot with a regular one speed hub... grind off the arm... and take it for a pedal ride to see what happens.
SB
 

gphil

Member
Jan 9, 2011
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USA Georgia
I would say taking out the "paws" would do the trick. They are pushed out to rub the inside of the hub , friction, brakes. May be wrong but I think it would be like taking out the pads on disk brakes.
 

corgi1

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Aug 13, 2009
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I think that is how I've seen it on here before and it seems they put "washers"(a spacer of sorts) in place to stop the free play (back pedal)that would be the back pedal movement of the original coster brake
 

Al.Fisherman

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Sep 9, 2009
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I would think .....Remove the clutch, driver and the brake arm.... I just replaced the wheel from a 7 speed on mine. Have both front and wheel pads. Use the double brake cable.
 

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moonshiner

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Apr 23, 2011
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i screwed with a Bendix hub one time , i never managed to get it back together right , it locked down and wouldn't turn after you used the brake , i took the brake guts out of it and used it till i got another wheel , if you are wanting a derailleur gear , heavy duty wheels with the free wheel gear hub are quite cheap , i have seen them as cheap as $40 for the rear or $100 for the set with aluminum rims , i found messing with the Bendix hubs a pain and could be dangerous if it locks up on you after modifying it .
 

corgi1

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Aug 13, 2009
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,and no one answered yours,Sorry, guess I was hoping someone that knew for sure would get it,this time I thought I remembered a thread was done before on this
 

Nashville Kat

Well-Known Member
Apr 20, 2009
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Jacksonville, Florida
This is a bit more complicated, but a better solution- get a freewheeling hub with flanges about the same size and re-build the wheel- I recently did one myself- and it was a bit of a challenge because I hadn't laced or trued a newly spoked wheel in 30 years- used to do it all the time racing and workin in shops.

You can get a bike shop to do it if you want.

Anyway- there's a lot of hubs that actually have a groove and a "stop" higher part at the back that are the exact diameter as our back sprockets-

my Micargi 7 speed came that way- the sprocket fits right on and is stopped with a higher ridge just about an eight inch from the hub flange- see thumbnail

perfect!

you still have to attach the sprock with a rag joint-

another build- and the recent re-laced mentioned above was a solid flanged Flip/flop hub I drilled and bolted a sprocket with the 6 inner "Disk brake" drilling directly to the hub-

here's the thread I posted -
http://motorbicycling.com/f15/sprocket-bolted-drilled-flip-flop-24770.html
 

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DuctTapedGoat

Active Member
Dec 20, 2010
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Nampa Idaho
You can't just remove the pads on a coaster brake, and I'll tell you why.

The torpedo stops at the internal brake pads and applies the brake. Without the pads, the torpedo doesn't have a reason to stop and attempts to fully unscrew, this causes things to just jam up from expanding pressure.
 

Allen_Wrench

Resident Mad Scientist
Feb 6, 2010
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Indianapolis
Why wouldn't it work just to take the brake arm off? I had the screw that held it in the strap on one of my old bikes break in two once. I didn't know right away. Saw a stop sign coming up and went to hit the brakes - and it was like they weren't there! Luckily there were no cars coming.
 

corgi1

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Aug 13, 2009
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Question in mind is if the pedals were pedaled backward and the brake engaged would the hub unscrew from the rear frame just as with the broken clamp on the brk arm does
 

corgi1

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Aug 13, 2009
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I think that is what the washers were for ,to take up the extra space and minimize the backpedal distance,up in the link in post #11
?,w/out the arm and the brk shoes in place ,would the hub unscrew itself if the pedals locked the shoes:confused:
 

DuctTapedGoat

Active Member
Dec 20, 2010
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Ohhh - got it. I wasn't thinking of washers internally. Now I gotta go buy washers! :D

I'm tempted to just JB Weld the torpedo.
 
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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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If I wait long enough, you guys will figure this out and then I'll know what to do. Or not do. Thanks. Might be I can use the three speed Bendix hub in a shift kit, if so. Or at least try it to see if it will hold up.
SB