Due to my weight and that of my MB, if this part of your bike is not adjusted properly or watched constantly - this is what happens. BTW this is a SHIMINO CB110. I've never seen this happen...
Coaster Brake destroyed - Check it
- Thread starter epicboy
- Start date
locked up the rear wheel and bent the drop outs really bad. Left a pretty good skid mark on the road. the frame is unusable until i get it over to the machine shop.
I always kept an eye on the rear. Over time it would like to get loose so i always watched it. But for some reason it didn't stay together...
I always kept an eye on the rear. Over time it would like to get loose so i always watched it. But for some reason it didn't stay together...
I had lost the bolt on my coaster torque arm once. When I applied the brake, the torque arm rotated and the motor turned the entire hub. I didn't notice till it accelerated as fast as I could pedal, then it was an OS moment.
good thing u said OS moment - i just got blasted by the forum moderator for my colorful language - lol
That's why I put on side pulls front and rear with dual pull lever.
I still leave the coaster on there for skid marks in the shorts stops!, But that's it!"Ya never Know when or where it's gonna happen" Kip.
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I still leave the coaster on there for skid marks in the shorts stops!, But that's it!"Ya never Know when or where it's gonna happen" Kip.
[email protected]
i think i'm going to install a dragster parachute on the back of my bike in case of emergencies. And to Goat, it's certainly not to much to ask to tone down the language. I get worked up sometimes especially when it involves the cops. I feel like it's a gauntlet around where i live sometimes. The cops are freaking everywhere where..
i ordered a worksman, which is going to have coaster breaks (was the cheapest option n im on a very tight budget).
should i be worried? how well does it stop one of these things moving around 25-30 mph? and will it eat up my rear tire? every experience i have had with coaster breaks involved skidding (which is why they were fun as kids), caliper breaks seemed to slow rather then just lock the wheel like a coaster break does, but i can't afford them atm.
should i be worried? how well does it stop one of these things moving around 25-30 mph? and will it eat up my rear tire? every experience i have had with coaster breaks involved skidding (which is why they were fun as kids), caliper breaks seemed to slow rather then just lock the wheel like a coaster break does, but i can't afford them atm.
the workman frame is heavy (I mean that in the best possible sense). I would use the coaster until u can afford to get at least a front disc brake set up. Your weight plus bike plus motor, etc adds up. Keep an eye on it..
i run a coaster and a front drum. installed and maintained properly, you should have no problems.
the exception to that is the cheap hubs used on cheap bikes. those fall apart from normal riding. usually they'll start clicking first.
a Shimano CB-E110 is a quality hub, and that's what worksman uses.
i recommend some kind of front brake, not because the coaster itself may fail, but if your chain breaks you'll have nothing, and an emergency skid can be hard to control.
also, a coaster brake doesn't just "lock up." apply a little pressure and it'll slow you down, jam on it and it'll skid.
epic boy, where your arm snapped looks like the spot where the bolts from the sprocket would rub, or where it could've been fatigued from bending it too much.
the exception to that is the cheap hubs used on cheap bikes. those fall apart from normal riding. usually they'll start clicking first.
a Shimano CB-E110 is a quality hub, and that's what worksman uses.
i recommend some kind of front brake, not because the coaster itself may fail, but if your chain breaks you'll have nothing, and an emergency skid can be hard to control.
also, a coaster brake doesn't just "lock up." apply a little pressure and it'll slow you down, jam on it and it'll skid.
epic boy, where your arm snapped looks like the spot where the bolts from the sprocket would rub, or where it could've been fatigued from bending it too much.
i haven't ridden anything with coaster brakes in around 10+ years?
wanna guess what i aways did? lol
no rubbing - i did remove some a small amount of material to prevent the bolts from striking the arm. The coaster break set-up sucks period in my opinion.
Kids say Oh Snap all the time. I think this would be a better hobby for kids than nintendo, so yeah, I agree.
re: Matt Hurd says Guess what I did. I guess you put washers in the hub on the axle stack in place of coaster brake shoes, to make a free coaster hub, and used a v-brake.
re: Matt Hurd says Guess what I did. I guess you put washers in the hub on the axle stack in place of coaster brake shoes, to make a free coaster hub, and used a v-brake.
This is a family forum that kids read I don't think their asking much lol
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WOW! I guess it's easy to underestimate how much force gets generated by something as simple as a coaster brake. I had a few of those clamps for torque arm come loose when I was a wee one. yes carnage ensued.
Glad to see you weren't hurt.
Glad to see you weren't hurt.
That may be true Bairdco but I figured that it was due to my weight and terrain. Kipharly and I live in a mountainous area with very long steep grades and I weight 220+. That's alot to ask of a coaster brake. I'm also going with drums for the sealed bearings. I'm sick of taking apart and greasing the rear hub every 50 miles. One thing for sure; there will be nothing but quality components on my builds for now on. It's just not worth the hassle and you pay more in the long run anyways.
that's true. coaster brakes and long downhills aren't the best combination. Worksman sells bikes to the Hawaii tour guys so you can rent them for the 27 mile downhill volcano ride with drum brakes only.
my daily bike has older worksman wheels with an Atom 90mm drum up front. used to have a Bendix coaster brake, but one of the spoke flanges broke completely off. i relaced a shimano into it. i'm a little nervous about the pressed on flanges they both have. i remember people welding the flanges on Suntour BMX hubs for freestylin' back in the old days.
i don't ride too many steep hills around here, but i will say that for everyday riding on the streets, most of the time i don't even use the rear brake to stop, unless i gotta stop faster. the drum does 90% of the work, and i can set my pedals up for the start.
i think drums and discs are the best possible way to go (i actually like drums better, not only for the vintage look, but also because they're basically indestructable, almost never need maintenance, and it'll take you 20 years or more to wear down the shoes.) if you really wanna stop.
another way to look at using cheap hubs is like this. if your wheels don't roll, neither will you. if your bike can't stop you, something a lot harder will.
my daily bike has older worksman wheels with an Atom 90mm drum up front. used to have a Bendix coaster brake, but one of the spoke flanges broke completely off. i relaced a shimano into it. i'm a little nervous about the pressed on flanges they both have. i remember people welding the flanges on Suntour BMX hubs for freestylin' back in the old days.
i don't ride too many steep hills around here, but i will say that for everyday riding on the streets, most of the time i don't even use the rear brake to stop, unless i gotta stop faster. the drum does 90% of the work, and i can set my pedals up for the start.
i think drums and discs are the best possible way to go (i actually like drums better, not only for the vintage look, but also because they're basically indestructable, almost never need maintenance, and it'll take you 20 years or more to wear down the shoes.) if you really wanna stop.
another way to look at using cheap hubs is like this. if your wheels don't roll, neither will you. if your bike can't stop you, something a lot harder will.
