Experts Needed

Ciretose420 · Sep 21, 2010

Hey guys
I currently own a Cannondale Prophet 600 Mountain Bike

I want to turn this into a long distance motorbike.
We're talking 2500+ miles on this trek, so this is no small feat.

I need advice on a good rear derailleur that is all metal parts, with great bearings, that will fit the current hardware mounts of the bike. Smooth and precise shifting is a must.

I also need advice on rims. Folded sidewall is a given.. But I'm not sure who's the best when it comes to high quality, large diameter bearings. I also need a good all terrain cruising tire to go with. This goes for both wheels. Disk brake mounts are a must of course.

My seat is also badly worn, so I'm looking to replace it. Has anyone done true long distance riding, that can suggest a good seat?

I will need to change my brake pads out, but as these are my first set of disc brakes, I'm not sure what kind of shoes to get?
Is there a performance difference depending on what you get? If so, what's the best performing?

I want to know about chain qualities as well. What's my best choice for overall performance? What's best for avoiding torquing? etc..

Any tips for weather proof saddlebags?

This is all I have for now.. Please help if you can. I have alot to try and figure out.

Thanks,
Ciretose

usflg

scotto- · Sep 22, 2010

I'm just kinda wondering where you plan on putting an engine on this bike??? The only real option that I see is a rear rack mount. Have you thought of this before you get to carried away?

A high-end Shimano derailleur will probably be your best bet. For tires of your description I'd go with the Kenda K-RAD 26x2.30's......great traction on and off-road. For a seat, unless your hind end has serious saddle time on it, go with the plush and rather large Cloud 9 Sunlite cruiser gel comfort saddle, your butt will thank you for it. Stick with the stock disc-brake pads that your bike came with.

Just my suggestions.....it's all up to you now....cheers!

Oh, and for chains, I highly recommend KMC or Shadow Conspiracy!

worksmanFL · Sep 22, 2010

scotto- said:
I'm just kinda wondering where you plan on putting an engine on this bike??? The only real option that I see is a rear rack mount. Have you thought of this before you get to carried away?

A high-end Shimano derailleur will probably be your best bet. For tires of your description I'd go with the Kenda K-RAD 26x2.30's......great traction on and off-road. For a seat, unless your hind end has serious saddle time on it, go with the plush and rather large Cloud 9 Sunlite cruiser gel comfort saddle, your butt will thank you for it. Stick with the stock disc-brake pads that your bike came with.

Just my suggestions.....it's all up to you now....cheers!

Oh, and for chains, I highly recommend KMC or Shadow Conspiracy!

Hi,

Im not an expert, buuut... (my add)

How about an axle mount motor?

GC Axle Robin Subaru Axle kit EH035 33.5 cc 24 oz tank with Complete 26” Wheel: Staton Inc

Ciretose420 · Sep 22, 2010

Wow, great information. Thanks! I should have stated, I'm planning on using a chainsaw engine mounted behind the seat on the rack. I have a gear and driveshaft system in mind to allow me to drive the wheel with the engine and pedals simultaneously.
I'm looking to make it so I can drive the bike through the chains system so I can change gears and get a much higher cruising speed out of my engine, without the need of stopping to switch to a larger diameter sprocket manually.
This will naturally include alot of custom designing and modding.. fortunately I have a brother working in a fabrication and repair shop. So I have access to the tools necessary.

As for Shimano derailleurs... I have one on there currently. But I'm not a huge fan of it's performance. Do you have a specific one you like?

Any input on rims would be great. I'm having hard time finding the best of the best for rugid riding. That's really pretty much what I'm looking for.

As for the seat... Hmm. My rear end does indeed have alot of saddle time on it. I've found that I don't care much for the gel seats in the long ride. They're comfortable for a short while, then they actually seem to make the craps in the backside even worse than if I'd have just ridden with a regular saddle.
Do you know of a regular style seat that is known for comfort and rigidity? Particularly for long distance riding, perhaps?

Thanks again for all the info! Keep it coming!

This will be a charity ride. I hope to cover 2500+ miles. Not sure where exactly where, or who exactly I'm going to ride for. But keep it in mind when suggesting things, if you have an idea.

Thanks,
Ciretose

Ciretose420 · Sep 22, 2010

How do Kenda K-RAD 26x2.30's compare to something like: Innova Kruise Control Beach Cruiser Bicycle Tire (Model 2069)?
I'm thinking the less knobby tread might give me better cruising, while still giving me a semi agressive looking tread..

Also, I work for a local newspaper, and I intend to cover this event through the local postings, as well as get local bikeshop sponsoring. I want to make this profitable for as many people as possible. If anyone would be interested in sponsoring me for this, in exchange for some ad inclusions during the event, or perhaps a sticker on the bike... I'm all up for ideas. If you're interested, please contact me at my email: [email protected]

ferball · Sep 22, 2010

If you plan on doing serious peddling on your distance trip, make a trip to the local bike shop and get fitted for a saddle, seats are designed like they are for a reason, proper fit ensures proper comfort, if you are like me and only peddle if you have to, big cushy and comfy will do, but if you are a peddler, big comfy and cushy leads to some serious chaffing.

Would also take friction drive off the table for those kind of miles, my buddy got ambitious with a friction drive, and went through a tire and half a dozen rollers, I am sure it could have been adjusted for better wear, but something to consider.

Saddle Bags? I would look into a bob trailer, more storage for extra parts and gear, I imagine this trip will be similar to my adventures in my old VW bus, had to travel with enough stuff to tune and rebuild the engine just in case. A bob trailer would give you that option, find one with your same wheel size and you have a spare wheel built in for extreme emergencies.

As far as the drive train, I personally would hesitate to run my engine on my existing chain and derailers. Sure you can upgrade the parts that should handle the stress, but if something should fail, you are dead in the water. Running the motor on it own sprocket at least ensures that you can peddle if the chain breaks, and the simpler the system the less to go wrong and the easier to maintain... Just my thoughts on that

If I did not have wife and kids and a job I would love to do a happy time cross country adventure... Maybe some day, half the fun is in the planning.

reb1 · Sep 22, 2010

It would be nice for some details and pictures when you are done.
Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT . Just remember to let off the throttle and ease up on the pedal pressure when shifting. This will make a quicker shift.
Wheel: Phil Wood hubs, stainless steel spokes and Salsa Gordo rims.
Saddle: If you are going to peddle most of the time along with the motor I would use a Brooks saddle in the width you need. I have done 150mile days for weeks at a time with a Brooks saddle on a touring bicycle. If you do not plan to peddle that much and make the motor do more of the work than get a really wide comfort saddle.
I agree with the rack mount for the aluminum framed bicycle. What motor are you going to use. Can you get parts to keep it running.

Ciretose420 · Sep 23, 2010

Thanks for the saddle info. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Would also take friction drive off the table for those kind of miles, my buddy got ambitious with a friction drive, and went through a tire and half a dozen rollers, I am sure it could have been adjusted for better wear, but something to consider.

I don't understand what you mean here.. =\

Saddle Bags? I would look into a bob trailer, more storage for extra parts and gear

Do you know if these are reliably water tight? Does mud tend to cling to them? Are they likely to tear easily?
I'm intending to go looking before long. But I need more savings.

Basicly, I'm running the engine to a freespinning driveshaft mounted to the frame under the seat and inside the frame just above the front derailleur.
I'll then run a chain to the rear cassette and derailleur.
Then, I'll put another sprocket on the shaft with a sprag in it, that will run to my front derailleur and sprocket.
Once modified properly, I will be able to shift the whole system through 9 different gears. With alot of ratios to play with in between all the connections. And I will have 3 large sprockets to change the speed of my pedals.
I'll likely be able to go faster than I'll want to.
I intend on mounting a 55cc chainsaw engine on the back. With heavy modifications, of course.
Though, the exact engine has not been determined yet.
Though, I'm looking to get sponsoring for my engine, so likely parts and even a possible replacement would be more than accessible. And if I can't get a sponsor, I'll use a popular name brand chainsaw. Parts for those are always easy to find.

If I did not have wife and kids and a job I would love to do a happy time cross country adventure... Maybe some day, half the fun is in the planning.

I hear ya there man. I'm going to school for Engineering in Mineralogy when I am done with this trip. So, I'll be kissing my big trips goodbye for a while.

Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT . Just remember to let off the throttle and ease up on the pedal pressure when shifting. This will make a quicker shift.

Excellent suggestion. I intend to use the syntrifugal clutch in the engine to detent the engine drive, and use my pedals to slowly turns and shift the gears over. If I can get all the chains to line up right, it should be smooth. thanks for the derailleur suggestion.

Wheel: Phil Wood hubs, stainless steel spokes and Salsa Gordo rims.

You seem so sure of this. Can I ask why? I haven't used any of these before, so I just wanna know what's worth raving about heh

Thanks for the info again! Please keep it coming!

Thanks,
Ciretose

reb1 · Sep 23, 2010

You seem so sure of this. Can I ask why? I haven't used any of these before, so I just wanna know what's worth raving about heh

Phil Wood hubs and Bottom Brackets are dependable. They are over engineered and made for strength and durability. I have been using there products since 1977. I used one of there Bottom Brackets in five different bicycles. The bottom brackets are sealed bearing type. I have always ordered the heavy duty bearing for these. They make there products for racing, touring and tandem use. I did snap one of there Bottom Bracket spindles once. I sent it in and they sent it back with a new spindle. I told them that it was probably my fault that it broke and they guaranteed it anyhow. Phil Wood & Co.

You may not need as heavy a rim as I suggested. Again I like durability and quality. You may want less spokes I like more. I use good quality SS spokes. Try being 30 or more miles from a place where there is replacement parts for your bicycle when something breaks that you can not repair. Been there done that.
I also like to be able to stop quickly. Make sure your brakes are good enough for the job.

ferball · Sep 23, 2010

Friction drive is one of the drive mounting techniques. How are you going to freewheel the front sprocket so your legs are not moving with the engine? Have you looked into pocket bike motor/cvt clutch setup it may be just as cheap as a decent chainsaw with plenty after market parts.

Ciretose420 · Sep 23, 2010

Phil Wood hubs and Bottom Brackets are dependable. They are over engineered and made for strength and durability.

Excellent. Thanks for that. I too am crazy about durability. especially on a ride like this.

How are you going to freewheel the front sprocket so your legs are not moving with the engine?

I'm intending on putting a chain from the pedals to the driveshaft the engine will be turning. However, I'm going to mount a sprag clutch within the center of the sprocket for my pedals, so if the engine turns the shaft faster than I can pedal, my pedals will go into a freewheel. Same sort of thing that happens when you stop pedaling and you hear the rear sprag in the rear cassette start clicking and your pedals freewheel.

I've looked into pocket bikes. But I need the chainsaw engine for numerous reasons. The two biggest being, that they're pretty much the best power to weight ratio for small engines out there. not to mention the torque. Further more, I need a centrifugal clutch in order to get my controls to work properly. I'm not interested in trying to add a clutch handle to my controls. That would be a headache >.<

scotto- · Sep 23, 2010

Hey Ciretose, Shimano Deore XT or XTR are pretty tough to beat for longivity and all-around performance. As for saddles, here's what I was suggesting:

These are the two most comfortable saddles for me, the carbon fiber flight for off-road and the Cloud 9 (not your typical GEL) comfort saddle for the streets. I hate gel seats, except for this one, you can't even tell that it's a gel.

As for rims, the Weinmann DM30 laced with 12ga. stainless steel spokes proves to be rugged enough. Otherwise go a Mavic downhill hoop...rather spendy. Phil Wood hubs are pretty much bomb proof....everything they make is of highest quality.

That Innova is a great tire....the K-RAD works for me. Not nearly as knobby as it looks, a nice round profile and a semi-soft compound that sticks to asphalt in the corners. Like I said....it's up to you.

Cheers and good luck!

Ciretose420 said:
Wow, great information. Thanks! I should have stated, I'm planning on using a chainsaw engine mounted behind the seat on the rack. I have a gear and driveshaft system in mind to allow me to drive the wheel with the engine and pedals simultaneously.
I'm looking to make it so I can drive the bike through the chains system so I can change gears and get a much higher cruising speed out of my engine, without the need of stopping to switch to a larger diameter sprocket manually.
This will naturally include alot of custom designing and modding.. fortunately I have a brother working in a fabrication and repair shop. So I have access to the tools necessary.

As for Shimano derailleurs... I have one on there currently. But I'm not a huge fan of it's performance. Do you have a specific one you like?

Any input on rims would be great. I'm having hard time finding the best of the best for rugid riding. That's really pretty much what I'm looking for.

As for the seat... Hmm. My rear end does indeed have alot of saddle time on it. I've found that I don't care much for the gel seats in the long ride. They're comfortable for a short while, then they actually seem to make the craps in the backside even worse than if I'd have just ridden with a regular saddle.
Do you know of a regular style seat that is known for comfort and rigidity? Particularly for long distance riding, perhaps?

Thanks again for all the info! Keep it coming!

This will be a charity ride. I hope to cover 2500+ miles. Not sure where exactly where, or who exactly I'm going to ride for. But keep it in mind when suggesting things, if you have an idea.

Thanks,
Ciretose

Ciretose420 · Sep 24, 2010

Thanks Scotto.
I think I've answered most of my questions for now. I'll post back this evening, when I've had time to consider.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a good tutorial on threading, tuning and maintaining rims?
I've put off learning this trade for too long.

Thanks,
Ciretose

scotto- · Sep 24, 2010

I've built a few wheel sets for myself over the years, but with all that's involved (and believe me there's plenty) and without a truing stand (home made or otherwise) your better off taking your hubs and hoops to a reputable wheel builder....wheel building is an art.

When I do any really long distance rides, I take my cruiser chariot, complete with comfort saddle and invisable clip-less pedals.....no need to stop except to re-fuel the engine... rotfl

Some people call me an expert....I'm really just a clever rascal!

Cheers to your build!

Ciretose420 · Sep 24, 2010

lmao that's awesome scotto. I've tried numerous times in my life, but I've never had the money to put into a project to make it a reality. Though, I've done alot of work on my rebuilt 1976 Datsun 620 pickup. It's my baby. =)
I'll have to show you pictures sometime. I'd have to say, she's a little more sexy than your all-in-one scooter. lol
Still, hats off to that creativity. lmao
Cheers.

And after doing some research I think you may be right. I really like that patched tread. I've got a buddy with a nice set of those. I tested them out today, they're totally what I was looking for.

Thanks

reb1 · Sep 24, 2010

I built my first wheel without a truing stand or dishing tool and do not use a spoke tensiometer. Sheldom Brown has a very good article that explains everything in the proper order. Even if you do not build your own wheels you should read this. The information can help you decide on the proper parts and teach you how to maintain your wheels. Wheelbuilding

Blackrain2012 · Sep 25, 2010

There is NOW WAY IN **** a motor will fit on that unless you use a friction drive and ruin your wheel

dnut

Blackrain2012 · Sep 25, 2010

Carbon fiber seat OUCH! lulz

Ciretose420 · Sep 29, 2010

So, here's my new engine! I'll be using it to cut wood for my camping trip this weekend.
Then, I'll start my modding for the bike project.
Beasty saw. However, I was recently offered a promotion at my job, and my entire life is upside down now. So, the trip is off, and I'm back to my original plan to make this a rip-snorting bastard of a bike.
I'll certainly have more questions this next week, as I start putting parts and ideas together.

Thanks again,
Ciretose

Ciretose420 · Oct 4, 2010

So, what can you guys tell me about the Nuvinci geared hub?
I'm looking at investing the money into this hub, so I can remove my derailleur system, and remove the breaks in shifting.
I've posted my engine information already.
I was wondering if you guys knew anything about the durability of the Nuvinci hub..
Especially, noting the power of the engine I'll be using.. and, this is now an off-road rig. So, I'll be using it on heavy trails.
Will the Nuvinci deal with the heavy torture of mobbing it around on mountain trails??

Thanks,
Ciretose
usflg

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