Self tensioning rear wheel (almost)

I wanted to make my kickstand mount flush on my frame. I used the Dremmel to cut away one of each of the tabs on the kickstand bracket, leaving the smaller of the two. When I installed it, the tabs fit snugly into the voids in my frame, tensioning the wheel rearward. I had to shave the one you see in the pic slightly for the correct fit. The other side still needs slight tensioning when you tighten it all up (hence the 'almost').
This works great! Really easy to get the wheel and chains right quickly. I didn't realize what a pain it was before having this.
Hopefully someone else can benefit from my happy accident!

Update. The drive chain was so perfectly aligned, I was too happy to think about it rubbing my tire at speed. Now I will re-fit the kickstand bracket to allow for my tire to shift slightly forward on that side, moving it over, and clearing the chain.

Well, the tab on the left side of the kickstand bracket fits in the frame, and that happens to be just right for tensioning the engine chain. The other tab does not fit in the same way (as to tension). I put the chains on the wheel, slide the axle into the dropouts, put the kickstand on the axle, insert the tabs into the frame, tension and tighten the right side nut, then tighten the left side nut.
As far as the band brake, that's all I had for awhile, and it does sorta stop you. I put a caliper brake up front, and it now does almost all the stopping. If I adjust the band to stop as effectively as the caliper, the drag is unbelievable. I'm seriously considering removing it to see if I could then move the drive gear away from the hub for chain clearance. I checked into this brake when I first got my bike and the general mood was positive, but it's not very impressive in use. If I could get that inch in the hub, I'd like to put a fatter tire on. My buddy who is a full on downhiller swears by disc brakes.
I don't know if that will help...

I believe mine are called horizontal- they are in fact, horizontal. Makes sense, the nuts get loose, the axle is pushed rearward by the motion of the bike, keeping it on. Hopefully! I have seen some pics here where members have welded on tabs to create horizontal slots.
There's alot I need welded too. Going to have to get a welder eventually.

Well dang. Learn something new every day.

I agree Tom. I've been getting about 2mm extra clearance this way, and it looks to be very close to aligned with the drive gear. This has been a concern of mine since I got the cruiser- barely clearing the tire, and not having that chain as perfect as possible. Do you think removing the band brake will allow me to move the gear out on the hub?

Thanks. Mine slides in from the front- but not quite as horizontally as yours. (Schwinn cruiser)