clutch arm not normal

Is there excessive free play in the cable? Have you guys checked the ramp, shaft & bearing?

While a longer arm would be able to give you more movement, the kit arm should do it - it makes me wonder if there's a piece malformed, missing, or just too short *shrug*

Got a pic of the clutch arm engaged/disengaged? Sounds like he's gettin' a heck of a lot of hand lever travel too - mine would never be able to pull that much cable lol

Does the arm come off the shaft? The way these work adding a longer pin won't help. Is it possible the shaft twisted?

Adjusting the flower nut will not do anything to help.

As viewed from the bike sitting on the bike the cable end of the lever should start about the 5:45 position, and end (disengaged) at the 4:30 position.

theres a ball bearing in there some times falls out messing up the correct position of the arm.

The clock position, and the fact that the clutch lever is hard to pull would indicate that the pin is too short!

When I used to make the clutch actuator kits, this was a source of real aggravation. The pin lengths differ.

With the stock actuator a short pin will cause this problem. Remove the pin and measure the length.

Buy a 5/16" diameter, hardened, dowel pin from the hardware store that is slightly longer than the pin you have...1/8" longer.

The dowel pin will have one end that is slightly radiused and one end that is chamfered, (beveled). Grind the chamfered end until you get the correct clock position. Insert the pin ground end first, so that the radiused end is outbound. You want the actuator cam to rub on the radiused end for the best clutch lever action.

Jim

The arm is splined to the cam. The arm may have slipped on the splines which would also explain the problem. If the splines are stripped, there is going to be an underlying problem that has caused it.

Jim