I am just getting my 66cc Chinese engine running on my mountain bike installation and I have a heck of time on getting it started! Here in Michigan, the temp is now in the 50 degree range so I understand, that starting the engine will take a bit more doing. I tried holding down the carb prime button for about 3 ~ 4 seconds or so and applying full choke. Using this method, I may have to pedal 100 ~ 150 feet or so to get the engine started, sometimes it will not start at all using this method. Then I tried full choke only (at a later time), with similar results. I have even removed the spark plug and used a shot of starting fluid; sometimes this helps, but not always. Once I get the engine running and warmed up, restarts are easy. What do you guys do to get your little engine going and how much effort does it usually take?
Prime, Choke; Chinese engine start?
- Thread starter Bicycle Motor Fun
- Start date
Maybe a slight change in starting technique would help.
Considering the outside temperature, it's going to be lean when cold.
You'll need full choke. 4 or 5 hits on the primer (don't press it too hard or you might poke a hole in the float). Start peddling, and let out the clutch, and now the trickest part. As you're peddling, open the throttle to just the right spot where the motor fires easiest. It's probably around 1/4 to 1/3 throttle.
If that doesn't help, you could try going to one size richer jet.
Considering the outside temperature, it's going to be lean when cold.
You'll need full choke. 4 or 5 hits on the primer (don't press it too hard or you might poke a hole in the float). Start peddling, and let out the clutch, and now the trickest part. As you're peddling, open the throttle to just the right spot where the motor fires easiest. It's probably around 1/4 to 1/3 throttle.
If that doesn't help, you could try going to one size richer jet.
I don't peddle more then 20'. I always use starting fluid/throttle body cleaner. I drilled a small hole in the filter case on the carburetor, just large enough for the nozzle tip (little straw that comes with it) to fit into. One short spray and good to go. The hole is on the side as it's easier to get to. It doesn't get cold here so I don't use the choke, just the plunger about 3-4 times. Next would be as above..."the jet".
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I don't get it when people suggest 'pumping' the tickler button. It isn't a pump and pressing it several times doesn't do anything. It reminds me of people who get on an elevator or a pedestrian cross walk and press the button multiple times, as if that will make the elevator or cross light work faster.
The button simply sinks the float when you push it and allows a fuel rich mixture to be drawn into the combustion chamber. Press in and hold it for four or five seconds then use about 1/2 choke and a little throttle. Every engine I've had required just a little variation on that combination but once the procedure is established your engine should start easily.
As for constantly relying on starting fluid to get the engine going, something isn't right if you need that much help to fire it off.
A properly tuned carburetor and the right spark plug, gapped correctly will go a long way toward having an engine that will start within a few feet of pedaling.
In addition, a well broken in engine will start quicker than a new one or one with only a few miles under its belt.
Tom
The button simply sinks the float when you push it and allows a fuel rich mixture to be drawn into the combustion chamber. Press in and hold it for four or five seconds then use about 1/2 choke and a little throttle. Every engine I've had required just a little variation on that combination but once the procedure is established your engine should start easily.
As for constantly relying on starting fluid to get the engine going, something isn't right if you need that much help to fire it off.
A properly tuned carburetor and the right spark plug, gapped correctly will go a long way toward having an engine that will start within a few feet of pedaling.
In addition, a well broken in engine will start quicker than a new one or one with only a few miles under its belt.
Tom
I don't use starting fluid on anything ether. I agree something is wrong there plug gap carb tune etc. All of my motors fire right off even in the dead of winter. I think the starting fluid temporally strips the cylinder wall of lubrication as a starting fluid on a two stroke too?
agreed w 2dr and gh....
the tickler only lets air out to fill the bowl... once will do it...
and ether has NO lubricant.. strips any lube right off the walls...
my carby is still not right, but I pedal start in a few hundred ft from cold at 50F and within 5ft after any warmup.
When I had my choke cable connected it fired right off from cold.
just didn't like that extra cable to the cns hangin around .
with the nt I gotta take the choke off soon as it starts.
rc
the tickler only lets air out to fill the bowl... once will do it...
and ether has NO lubricant.. strips any lube right off the walls...
my carby is still not right, but I pedal start in a few hundred ft from cold at 50F and within 5ft after any warmup.
When I had my choke cable connected it fired right off from cold.
just didn't like that extra cable to the cns hangin around .
with the nt I gotta take the choke off soon as it starts.
rc
Peddling any distance for me is not a option, I'm not going to do it. Personally I don't care if the starting fluid or throttle body ruins my engine. Ya think I care about my engine? I can replace it many times over vs getting a new heart. Working at 15%. Been using SF and or TBC since 3/2009....same original engine.
Ok 45 then my china's start in about 15 foot of travel in the dead of winter.
Mine too. 1/2 choke, pedal, a slight twist of the grip and go. My engines typically are running before I reach the end of my driveway. About twenty feet.Ok 45 then my china's start in about 15 foot of travel in the dead of winter.
Tom
I though if you hit the tickler button more times, the carburetor will think you're in a bigger hurry to get started.
And elevators will go faster if you hold the button in. Sort of like the fire sprinkler heads in Hollywood. Hold a match under one and the whole building gets wet.
Tom
Are you sure your choke is working in the first place. After you get it running put it on full choke to see if it floods out. If not it isn't working properly. If not open up the carb to see if the choke is closing over the intake. If it isn't moving back and forth tighten up the screw and see what happens.
These theory's all originate from the days when Abraham Lincoln designed America's cross walks. You've probably heard of the mason dickson line? Well what you might not know is people were trying to get across it, but there were too many cars. A cross walk system was designed so that the more times you press the button, the more people the signal thinks what to cross the street. The light won't change right away and stop cars for only one pedestrian, but if it thinks 150 people are trying cross...............This is why you see people of low moral fortitude repeatedly hitting a button at a cross walk even though they're the only ones there. Honest Abe apparently never took this into account.And elevators will go faster if you hold the button in. Sort of like the fire sprinkler heads in Hollywood. Hold a match under one and the whole building gets wet.
Tom
This has all been documented on the Rocky and Bullwinkle show
Too bad that automatic teller machines don't work like that. Hit the button once and you get a ten. Hit it nine more times and you walk away with a cool hundred
Tom
Tom
You're thinking of the ones at the federal reserve lol.Too bad that automatic teller machines don't work like that. Hit the button once and you get a ten. Hit it nine more times and you walk away with a cool hundred
Tom
Wow, a lot of good information that I will try when I get back to my bicycle that is back at my son's farm, 70 miles north of my home. The Tinsmith asked about my choke operation; yes sir, it does work, I checked it out when I had the nt carb off and it does flood the engine on full choke when the engine is running well. At 75 years if age, I would like to keep my "heavy pedaling" to a minimum to get the engine started! Also, reaching with my left hand to work the choke while I am getting the engine going, is rather risky! I think I will run a choke cable to the choke from the left handle bar position. This way, I can keep my hands on the handle bar at all times, except to reach up momentarily to adjust my hat as when my speed increases, the wind tries to remove my hat for me! Thanks everybody so much for your constructive ideas! 
The easiest way I've found to start a hard starting HT engine is to pedal hard & pop the clutch lever out, then while still pedalling, reach over with your left hand & slowly raise the choke lever up while holding the throttle wide open. It will fire right up once the choke hits that sweet spot!
Once you have that technique down, you can start the hardest to start bike in less than 30'.
To make it even easier, do it while rolling down hill!!
Once you have that technique down, you can start the hardest to start bike in less than 30'.
To make it even easier, do it while rolling down hill!!
