Point Beach, 66cc, solid mounted. Excessive hand numbing handlebar vibration. Solved. Cruiser handlebars, aside from being what I consider unsafe because of hand position when braking, are the problem with this bike model. Switched to Mt bike bars, alloy, 5" rise, removed over 90% of vibration. Not only do they look better, but there is much more control stability. Try it, you'll like it.
Vibration tip
- Thread starter marioaz
- Start date
I shortened my Jag bars 2" on each side
they are so long they get a harmonic/flex thing happening otherwise IMHO
they are so long they get a harmonic/flex thing happening otherwise IMHO
I thought of shortening the bars, but as I mentioned, at least for me, cruiser bar hand positioning is all wrong. The bike handles so much better with Mt. bike bars.
I remember Ftn Hills when there was nothing there. Spent 31 yrs in the Valley.
I remember Ftn Hills when there was nothing there. Spent 31 yrs in the Valley.
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i cured that problem before my first ride, all you need to do is fill them bars up with steel blast shot 
I like BMX bars- they usually have about 8 inch rise- not too apehanger- and are perpendicular to the top tube for a much better grip--- They're colorful and have an extra top crossbar for accessories or a pad-
you just have to be carefull because most of them are 7/8 all through, and need a two piece MX stem, unless they have a 1 inch knarl at the center and flat ends on the top crossbar- then they will fit a normal gooseneck-
they didn't do much for vibration- a bigger gear (36 sprocket), smooth tires, a front suspension fork, and now some pipe insulation at motor mounts has cured most of that
Photo to post below-
you just have to be carefull because most of them are 7/8 all through, and need a two piece MX stem, unless they have a 1 inch knarl at the center and flat ends on the top crossbar- then they will fit a normal gooseneck-
they didn't do much for vibration- a bigger gear (36 sprocket), smooth tires, a front suspension fork, and now some pipe insulation at motor mounts has cured most of that
Photo to post below-
These bars are 7/8 but have 1 inch center and the flat ends on the upper bar, that go through a one-piece gooseneck (you can't see under the pad)- they were only about $12 I think.
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This is a Schwinn I've built up- with MX bars- 7/8" all through, that requires a 3 piece stem-
the stems come in different sizes, but most of the quills are 2.11 mm or 2.22 (7/8") and rare 2.54mm ,(1 inch)-
These annodized retro like this one need to be shimmed in most bikes- I just use tape- although I'd go only one size down- and this Schwinn takes the small quill anyway, but the one in my Peugeot road bike is taped-
Gold here, the Peugeot has a blue, and they come in red too- very lightweight and I love the look-about $20 shipped on e-bay under "BMX stems"
I raced USCF in my younger days, but at 55 and with some back troubles, I really can't ride drop bars any longer.
the stems come in different sizes, but most of the quills are 2.11 mm or 2.22 (7/8") and rare 2.54mm ,(1 inch)-
These annodized retro like this one need to be shimmed in most bikes- I just use tape- although I'd go only one size down- and this Schwinn takes the small quill anyway, but the one in my Peugeot road bike is taped-
Gold here, the Peugeot has a blue, and they come in red too- very lightweight and I love the look-about $20 shipped on e-bay under "BMX stems"
I raced USCF in my younger days, but at 55 and with some back troubles, I really can't ride drop bars any longer.
